Possible Alternative Way of Doing a Tank Lanyards?

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Otherwise, if you have to unclip because 1) the line is slack, or 2) the line is too tight, then your line is too long/short respectively.

my .02

I disagree, my belief is that if your cylinders normal position is behind the arm pit during the dive, you would need a ridiculously long chord around the neck of the cylinder to be able to leave this attached by a boltsnap to your chest d ring during the dive, otherwise it would pull the cylinder out of position. The purpose of the boltsnap connection is purely to take the weight of the cylinders off the bungee when out of the water, therefore they only need to be connected when on land or at the end of the dive in preparation for being back on land!
It's not a difficult procedure to clip and unclip, if you find it so, you must really struggle with your lower boltsnap connections which would suggest you need much more skills practice!
 
I'm thinking we're talking about different harnesses with different D ring positions. The lower d ring on my sms75 and a lanyard about 3" long allows me to put my ranks relatively low, with room under my armpits.

---------- Post added September 22nd, 2014 at 01:25 AM ----------

It might be worth thinking about how our configurations differ before accusing others of poor skills. Food for thought.
 
I still don't get WHY you would leave it clipped and/or have a boltsnap there...
Takes one second to remove a double ender, leaving just a loop on the tank neck seems fairly cleaner to me. Could anyone explain?

(And YES you can do it on rental tanks, just make the loop big enough to go over the valve. With a bit of thought it can be pretty small.)
 
I'm thinking we're talking about different harnesses with different D ring positions. The lower d ring on my sms75 and a lanyard about 3" long allows me to put my ranks relatively low, with room under my armpits.

---------- Post added September 22nd, 2014 at 01:25 AM ----------

It might be worth thinking about how our configurations differ before accusing others of poor skills. Food for thought.
I think you'll find, if you read my post again, I made no accusation. I merely pointed out that "IF" the process of clipping and unclipping a boltsnap from the top of the cylinder is something you find difficult, then perhaps more skills practice is required. I stand by this statement and believe it to be true for anybody that intends to sidemount dive!

I disagree that your lower connection point and d rings have much, if anything, to do with the decision making process of whether or not you choose to clip and unclip cylinders to your chest d ring during land based carriage.

I believe it's agreed best practice, certainly amongst the vast majority of sidemount divers and instructors that I know of to aim for the most streamlined cylinder position possible. Which it's generally accepted, is in line with the body and with the valve just behind your arm pit. In this configuration (which is the configuration I'm referring to) when using bungee to hold the valve in the correct position, you would need ridiculously long and in my opinion unsuitable length of chord around the cylinder neck to be able to leave this clipped on to your chest d ring without affecting the position of the cylinder. To have a longer chord so you can leave them connected without affecting the cylinder, would in my opinion be in danger of being a safety issue with an increased risk of snagging and/or entanglement. Again this is my opinion and the thinking behind my reasoning.

This is why I disagree with the opinion that leaving then clipped during the dive is a good idea. I see no good reason for leaving them clipped during the dive, resulting in a less than optimal cylinder position, when it is so very simple to clip and unclip and allow yourself the best of both worlds, an optimal cylinder position throughout the dive AND secure connection taking the weight when carrying cylinders attached on dry land.

No accusations made, nor intended, just reasoned, fact based argument to explain why I disagree with the idea of leaving them connected and to verbally demonstrate why I see a much neater and more effective solution all round in clipping and unclipping.

These opinions are my own, and will remain the same until reasoned argument alerts me to something that I consider better, more sensible or safer. I'm open to change, but only when it's based on fact and logic and experience. My intention is not to expect others to do as I do, but it is to offer up reasoned, fact based argument in favour of the way I choose to do it and allow others to read it and make up their own minds.
 
I guess I'm having a hard time imagining why one would need to unclip. My instructor never even mentioned that some people prefer to unclip, and a more streamlined fish you'll never find. I don't think this issue will be resolved with text, demonstrations would be necessary, for me at least. Next time I'm in Marianna I'll pay more attention to what others are doing. Cheers.
 
I guess I'm having a hard time imagining why one would need to unclip. My instructor never even mentioned that some people prefer to unclip, and a more streamlined fish you'll never find. I don't think this issue will be resolved with text, demonstrations would be necessary, for me at least. Next time I'm in Marianna I'll pay more attention to what others are doing. Cheers.

Dont waste your breath. Sm is a different animal in north florida vs Mexico vs England vs France. Often people become very opinionated because all they know is their way and have no interest in learning other ways. It is taught by the majority of sm instructors in north florida to keep the lanyard attached the whole dive. It in no way affects trim, but you won't find it easy to convince/explain that to people who haven't dove it. I have been told that one additional reason edd is for leaving it clipped the whole dive is in case a bungee breaks or lets loose. A steel 100 would be much harder to deal with than an al80
 
Same here. Having a hard time why you would want to keep it clipped.
For me, if you have a long cord as you suggest, then the tank will be hanging very low when out of water and it will be able to move around. Underwater it will add up clutter. It does provide "redundancy" (which has been solved in other ways already). Is this interpretation wrong? I'm not saying streamlined, i mean clutter. It's not the same thing.

Unfortunately I can't try it, since I'm only using one al80 on my dives.


Rddvet, I love you. You do exactly what you blame us, and you're obviously the one being right :D.
 
Rddvet, I love you. you're obviously the one being right :D.


Finally, we find some truth on scubaboard.

I didn't discredit your point btw. I don't see any issue with removing lanyards depending on what you want to do. What Aotus is trying to explain would be hard to do without photos. But at the same time he's being basically told that his way is wrong because it pushes the cylinders out of proper position, which is simply not true at all. I also stated one other reason besides gettting in and out of the water that lanyards are used. Unfortunately too many people in the sm forum think their way is the only way. If you look back I've never said my way is the only way. I've dove sidemount in enough regions and enough different rigs to know there's a million ways to do it and none are wrong. Although some ideas just make no sense.
Sidemount was made for sb. There's so many ways to customize it that everyone can do it different and still be right. Isn't that the spirit of sb? To tell people why your way is the right way?

On edit>>>> I once had a bungee give because I had been messing with my rig and didn't pay attention and the knot slipped. I was in OW so it wasn't a huge issue. The tank lanyard stopped the worthington 85 from dropping valve straight down from the buttplate attachment and dragging.
 
I don't know if It'll be the kind of solution I'm looking for for any kind of travel rigging on rental tanks but for my own tanks it could work.

This will work for rental tanks as you can splice around the valve without removing it from the tank. When you are done just undo the splice or cut it off. All you need to do is bring your own line on your trip and a knife.
 
i leave my bolt snaps attached to the chest d-rings. My paracord is long enough it has no affect on anything the bungee is doing, but short enough its not slack all over.

It depends WHAT you're doing...

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https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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