Poseidon Cyklon Service Advice

[Erik22]

There's also a cheaper route, through Scuba Clinic, that was reviewed, earlier this year:

Hand Press for Poseidon Cyklon Second Stage . . .

Scuba Clinic, of Thailand, has come up with a lightweight (210 gram), comparatively inexpensive (about US 70.00) alternative to Poseidon's 1.3 kilo, multi-hundred dollar "Assembly Tool," — both aimed at simply installing a 1.5 gram “locking ring” on a Cyklon second stage. It is composed of...

scubaboard.com

Some can also manage to use a flat screwdriver or dissecting probe to fit the ring. I was shamed into trying it again, a while back, successfully; but managed to bloody myself once or twice . . .

Thank you for providing that link to the page. I can see myself potentially doing it with a flat screw driver or similar probe for the first time but I will eventually upgrade to the Scuba Clinic tool.

The video on the other thread showing how to use the probe to align and lock the ring was helpful as well. Reading regulator literature is one thing, but to see it or do it is another thing.

Would you happen to know if there is a full disassembly-reassembly video for the cyklon second stage?

I appreciate the all the assistance.

Erik

 

[Bigbella]

If you are indeed receiving a 300 (a 2305, in this case), as you were originally anticipating, here is just about everything in the kit, minus the hoses; the polymer second stage housing; and the rubber mouthpiece — all, from a recent overhaul.

Oddly enough, this one never had a serial number . . .

 

[350xfire]

There's also a cheaper route, through Scuba Clinic, that was reviewed, earlier this year:

Hand Press for Poseidon Cyklon Second Stage . . .

Scuba Clinic, of Thailand, has come up with a lightweight (210 gram), comparatively inexpensive (about US 70.00) alternative to Poseidon's 1.3 kilo, multi-hundred dollar "Assembly Tool," — both aimed at simply installing a 1.5 gram “locking ring” on a Cyklon second stage. It is composed of...

scubaboard.com

Some can also manage to use a flat screwdriver or dissecting probe to fit the ring. I was shamed into trying it again, a while back, successfully; but managed to bloody myself once or twice . . .

The only way I got this press to work was using my vise to squeeze it. It is not as user friendly as the Poseidon press, but it isn't $200-300 either. I do like the Poseidon press but feel there should be a better/cheaper way to do this 1 function of sticking the ring in place. Heck, they should redesign the reg to not need this.

 

[350xfire]

I must’ve gotten it confused with the Jet Stream. Thanks for the clarification.

I went through the manuals and to install the diaphragm cover retainer ring it shows a large press. I understand the need for the press, but is it absolutely necessary or is it something I can pick up down the line? I could likely machine and weld a similar apparatus, if the need arose.

Here’s the press. I’ve seen one for sale on silent explorers at $200.

You could just not remove the diaphragm, then no need to remove the ring.

 

[Kupu]

double post

 

[Kupu]

You could just not remove the diaphragm, then no need to remove the ring.

I sometimes do this on personal cyklons, but only if I have done a fairly recent service and know the condition of the parts. Old exhalation diaphragms can have cracks, and sometimes there can be sand or other debris in the diaphragm housing.

For a new to me cyklon, full disassembly for first service.

 

[Bigbella]

The only way I got this press to work was using my vise to squeeze it. It is not as user friendly as the Poseidon press, but it isn't $200-300 either. I do like the Poseidon press but feel there should be a better/cheaper way to do this 1 function of sticking the ring in place. Heck, they should redesign the reg to not need this.

Strange -- it never posed an issue for me -- doing it by hand -- once I realized that some physical force was needed, beyond that of the catalogue description . . .

 

[Erik22]

Just an update, it is a 2305 (Cyklon 300). Now for some humour. My friend, in his infinite wisdom, left the yoke adapter torqued tight on the DIN threads and left it for a couple years after diving. Corrosion set in and the first stage adapter very well could be “cemented” to the DIN threads. I have tried using the boiling hot water dunk, now it’s in the freezer and will go for a hot dunk again. If that doesn’t work, I’m tempted to try PB blaster for sh*ts.

Anticipating this as a possibility, several days ago I ordered another Cyklon 300 first and second. This one is in better condition and should be 3/8 unf and not G1/8. The “kaputt” Cyklon from my friend has ports threaded for G1/8. Funny, he never stripped any of the threads but instead screwed up the yoke adapter/DIN threads.

I took apart the Cyklon second stage and it is a stupid-simple design. I love it. I would argue that it is better than the US Divers 1085 second stage which essentially set the standard before it was broken by the SP109.

It was fairly corroded as well but some time in the ultra sonic will fix that. The parts that are critical are in good condition, other things like the diaphragm and purge button cover need to be replaced. The exhaust system is genius.

Despite the challenges, I am satisfied with this reg. If the first stages give me trouble, I’ll throw it on my Conshelf Supreme and pump the IP up to Poseidon specs.

Thank you all for your help. I will send pics tomorrow and provide an update about the “kaputt” first stage.

Erik

 

[Bigbella]

I took apart the Cyklon second stage and it is a stupid-simple design. I love it. I would argue that it is better than the US Divers 1085 second stage which essentially set the standard before it was broken by the SP109.

It was fairly corroded as well but some time in the ultra sonic will fix that. The parts that are critical are in good condition, other things like the diaphragm and purge button cover need to be replaced. The exhaust system is genius.

It is a "stupid-simple design" -- though elegant enough to have survived more than five decades, with little change. More often than not, in my experience, if there is any leakage to be had, after a second stage rebuild, it is most likely some damage to the valve seat (1165), whose business end is on the fragile side; so be careful with its thin-metal tip, where it meets the rubber plate on the valve piston. When it is sold as a spare part, it is typically covered with a tight rubber cap, and packed like a Faberge egg.

As to your frozen yoke / valve stem, you could also try dumping the whole damn thing in the ultrasonic cleaner, with either white vinegar or citric acid (powdered, from the grocer's shelf, found in the canning section). I ran into that a few times, over the years -- and it took 70˚ C water; twenty minutes; and some acid to dislodge things, along with a rubber mallet "persuader" . . .

 

[350xfire]

I sometimes do this on personal cyklons, but only if I have done a fairly recent service and know the condition of the parts. Old exhalation diaphragms can have cracks, and sometimes there can be sand or other debris in the diaphragm housing.

For a new to me cyklon, full disassembly for first service.

Agree, as for me, I would remove it!