Polaroid (Meikon) Housing for S110

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foglesre

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I've been putting together an inexpensive new underwater camera rig for myself. This will be my third underwater camera, the previous ones having been an Olympus SP350 (with wired external Olympus strobe, wonderful camera save a few shortcomings) and a Panasonic ZS3 (no strobe).

This time I wanted to get myself a good strobe to pair with a nice compact fully manual camera. I haven't been doing enough diving over the last year or two so I'm quite excited to be joining the Belize Aggressor for the first week of February. I got myself a Sea & Sea YS-01 from DiverVision. With the Canon S110 on closeout for just $220 and this Polaroid housing available for just $110, I decided to jump on that.

To be honest, purchasing this Polaroid housing has been a bit of a fiasco. I ordered it from RitzCamera.com just after Christmas. As I waited and waited for it to ship, I finally called them only to be told that the order had been cancelled because the could not get the item. Nice of them to tell me that... Fortuitously, it was suddenly available on Amazon Prime for the same price (now it's $250). It was sold by dBase, fulfilled by Amazon, just one left. I sprung for the extra $4 to have it overnighted. I didn't want this one to get away. It was clearly an open box item--wrapping crumpled, a couple of very slight water marks, very faint scratches and, frustratingly, the diffuser is not even the right one for the housing. I discussed with Amazon. The offered a very fair 30% refund. I'm happy...as long as it doesn't flood. The lack of diffuser is a bit of a letdown, but I really wanted this for use with the external strobe. Now on to the review... I'll just provide a few initial observations and a bunch of pictures. More will follow in mid-February, after I'm back from Belize.

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Fit: First thing I noticed was that the camera fits in very tightly, much more so than either my Olympus or Panasonic housings. It has nice rubber grommets in the front and back, but the sides are pretty much all hard polycarbonate and it really wedges in there tightly.

Controls: The lens ring dial works well. An angled wheel actuates the ring. It's hard to tell, but that hard plastic. The mode wheel, by contrast has a rubber contact against the camera mode dial. I don't understand the reason for the difference. The buttons all actuate smoothly and easily (contrary to other comments I've read about stiff buttons on Meikon housings). Interestingly, the button internal contacts look identical to those of my panasonic housing, though it has nicer chrome buttons on the outside. I will say the zoom lever seems a little flimsy, but it should be okay unless it catches on something and gets pulled on hard. Of course, there's no control of the back wheel. I can live with that for the price I paid for the camera and housing. There's always the ring function button shortcut... Oh, and strangely, there's one superfluous button on the top next to the power button.

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Latch: This is interesting. I'm used to my other two housings clamping the housing shut. On this housing, you do the squeezing it shut yourself and it just latches shut. Of course the seal is sealing on the size surface, not the face of the seal so the clamping force is really just overcoming the squeezed o-ring on the hinge side. The latch is a bit more plastic than I'd like, but seems adequate for the job. I tested it in a tub of water and it's leak tight (at no pressure).

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Strobe Connectors: This is a great feature versus the Canon housings. It comes with two Sea & Sea-compatible fiber optic connectors. Tested that out already. Works great. I'll probably put a little electrical tape on the inside to mask the spilled light. I expect I will buy a second strobe before I buy a new camera/housing so I'm glad it has the second connector.

Lens Mount: Of course the other nice thing about this housing is that it has the 67mm thread on the lens. It is a plastic thread that doesn't give me the greatest confidence. I would trust it for a red filter or macro lens, but probably not a big wide angle lens. Oh well.

So that's it. Happy to answer any questions. I'd be interested out of curiosity to hear comparisons / differences with the Canon housing.

Bob


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I suggest taking it to your local dive shop to have it pressure tested. On the boat is no time find out you have a problem. If you plan to take it into the blue hole, test it to at least 160 feet.
 
I just thought I would report back on the results with this housing. It worked great!

I took it down to about 70 ft or so. (I did not try testing it in the Blue Hole.) No leaks. All of the controls worked flawlessly. Of course you can't actuate the wheel on the back but the shortcut works fine for setting shutter speed in manual mode. The red filter fitted the housing without problem, though I frankly was very happy with the manual white balance on the S110 even without the filter. The Sea and Sea fiber optic connectors worked well. I fashioned a mask with few pieces of strategically placed black gorilla tape.

It turns out I was wrong about the diffuser. It did fit the housing. It is however pretty much useless. The lens is too big and blocks too much of the flash even with the diffuser.


For only $109, this is a bargain. If it was the same price as the Canon, I'm not sure which I'd buy. I like the fiber optic connectors on this one. I found the threaded lens marginally useful, but the fact that it blocks the flash so completely is unfortunate. Perhaps the Canon would be better with respect to the flash. I assume other Meikon / Polaroid would be of similar quality / value.


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I have the Meikon housing for the S100. AFAIK, the leftover useless button is a remnant of the S90 housing, as the S90 has a button there.

As far as I can tell, those Meikon housings are exactly identical to the Canon housing (I suspect outsourced manufacturing) except for the closing latch. Of course in my case, it was exactly this latch that broke (my fault - housing dropped on a tiled floor). I managed to fix it with some DIY work. Other than that, the housing has been working flawlessly down to ~100 feet.

I use the diffuser extensively as I don't have external strobes and with close-up/macro shots, all of the internal flash would be blocked by the lens port. At least the diffuser lets you get a bit of the flash back in those cases. My S100 housing doesn't have a circular lens port though, which probably helps the diffuser use.
 
I have the same housing, but no external strobe. I am wondering if anyone has any ideas how I might improve results using the diffuser.

As you can see from the images above the lens port with 67mm thread block most all of the internal strobe output.. so even at 0.5m it casts a really bad shadow in the bottom right and i just cant get balanced and even lighting
 
The built-in flash is not very powerful, and if you shoot at .5m it will illuminate all of the particles in the water. You may want to look in to buying an Auto Magic Filter and tape it over the camera lens. Don't even turn the flash on. Here is a photo I took using my old Fuji F31fd. The Canon S110 has a much wider lens (24mm vs 38mm) so it would get better results.

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I have the same housing, but no external strobe. I am wondering if anyone has any ideas how I might improve results using the diffuser.

As you can see from the images above the lens port with 67mm thread block most all of the internal strobe output.. so even at 0.5m it casts a really bad shadow in the bottom right and i just cant get balanced and even lighting
I agree with desert eagle, turn off the flash for best results.

Due to the port blocking the flash, very few P&S cameras provide balanced lighting from the internal flash. I have a canon elph that sometimes gives good results. Too far away and the flash is not strong enough. Too close and the flash is unbalanced. There is a sweet spot where it does work okay. I do not always hit it.

Try some dry land experiments where you vary the distance to your subject to see if your housing / diffuser combo has a sweet spot. If so, next dive trip repeat the experiment underwater.

It that fails, turn off the flash or purchase an external flash.
 
thks for the replies. Yes, i think an external strobe is on my short list... i have tried on land at different distances shooting a wall and no matter what distance i try i cannot get it balanced. Even i go over 1.5m and start to see the heavier flash at the top of the scene which i assume is the area above the diffuser, so think no flash has to be the way to go.

Until i can get myself a strobe, is it worth taking a dive light (maybe adding a diffuser) to help light a scene?
 

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