Please comment on my setup and hose routing

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it is some crazy quater DIR style.

-boltsnap on primary is too far from 2'st stage
-inflator hose is too long
-lot of usless stuff on webbing
-computer sender on stage short hose ? :)
- far too long gauge hose

hose routing OK ; due to ports orientation

Yeah, I know these will come up.

Boltsnap was tight near the 2nd stage, but after 4 dives, the nylon line got loose and slide. I will need to retight that and this time will probably lose the hose protector so the boltsnap will stage tack.

LPI & gauge HP hose are long. LPI came with the wing and guage is a Oceanic gauge which I regreted buying. If you look closely, I put tape at 24" mark to estimate the length. Once I got the rest sort out, I will get a proper length. That should be an easy fix.

Webbing is a Dive Rite transplate harness as it is. Nothing extra. I know many prefer one piece webbing. I have that on AL plate for tropical diving. So far, I haven't notice any difference enough for me to rip out the transplate for one piece, at least not yet.

AI transmitter on 6" hose is a more complicated matter. I had to use this setup orignally with Hollis DC2 1st tage because that "stupid" DC2 has cavity for all the ports. Nothing but standard hose will go in properly, not Miflex, not transmitter. With the Atomic, the 6" is not needed. But I found out that when I try to reach for tank knob, I will grab the transmitter everytime. With gloves on, I cannot tell what is what. To avoid accidentally turning the transmitter isntead of the tank valve, I kept the 6" there. Any suggestion how to improve this?
 

I wonder why is this possible with his setup in that post.

I have tried it this way. The problem is clearance between bottom port and tank, and between drysuit shose and tank neck. I can only tilt the first tage very little because DS hose is hitting tank neck. That leaves an uncomfortable connection from the bottom port (7ft hose will be band).

Do you think the issue is how the AL80 tank shape? Short tank neck and short k valve leave little clearance for 1st routing. I will try to find another tank to compare.
 
Now the other to look at is the orientation of the turret. The spacing of the LP ports is not even on Atomics. There are 2 ports, a small gap, 2 ports, and then a large gap. It looks to me that you have the small gap to the back and the large gap to the front. Which is what you want. But it is hard to tell. Double check that.

I would swap the LPI so that the dry suit hose is next to the wing.

You have the LP port orientation right. The smaller gap is toward the tank. I found it gives less bank to the LPI and backup 2nd that way. If I were to put the smaller gap toward my head, those two hose will come out toward the wing, band up severely.

why swap LPI & DS hose?
 
A few thought I have this morning. I wonder how they will work:

1. move tank higher, so LP ports clear the wing. But 1st stage will most likely hit my head.
2. mount 1st up side down. This seems solve all the routing issue, but it maybe easier to have 1st stage damage by hitting something
3. use 90 degree LP swivel elbow on LP port for LPI or/and Drysuit. This seems most flexiby but also most complicated and failure prone.
 
A HOG reg can be made into yoke just as easily as your reg can be converted to DIN, which I would recommend doing.

Here is a HOG reg mounted to a steel HP80, and a Freedom Plate with a Mach V 30lb Signature wing.

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This shot shows cam band location and tank location to wing.

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This photo is of my HP130, Freedom Plate, Mach V 40lb signature wing and a SP MK25. Even though it is set up as a double reg, it gives you an idea of how the hoses can route.

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As stated above you don't need the fluff on your harness. A basic harness works better. All you need to convert it is some webbing ($15) and a couple d-rings ($5). You could then sell your fancy harness to another unsuspecting victim.

The transmitter also doesn't need to be on a hose, and should be solidly mounted to the reg. See the pictures I posted above. If you are grabbing it instead of the tank valve just pay more attention to what you are grabbing. Or take it off completely. I put a transmitter on my g/f's tank to give her options, until she has more ow dives. She seems to like the gauge mounted on her hip though :cool2: Won't be long before the transmitter comes off.

When is your Fundies class? :eyebrow: :D
 

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Great to see such attention paid to routing

Have you considered a sacrificial adaptor for your transmitter
one that you can slightly file the corners and bits that don't fit
off to fit IF, it doesn't fit.


If you apply this philosophy to all your diving you will find primarily
that attention to Detail is Right.

Always.
 
A HOG reg can be made into yoke just as easily as your reg can be converted to DIN, which I would recommend doing.

Here is a HOG reg mounted to a steel HP80, and a Freedom Plate with a Mach V 30lb Signature wing.

This shot shows cam band location and tank location to wing.



The transmitter also doesn't need to be on a hose, and should be solidly mounted to the reg. See the pictures I posted above. If you are grabbing it instead of the tank valve just pay more attention to what you are grabbing. Or take it off completely. I put a transmitter on my g/f's tank to give her options, until she has more ow dives. She seems to like the gauge mounted on her hip though :cool2: Won't be long before the transmitter comes off.

When is your Fundies class? :eyebrow: :D

It looks like your HP80 setup has similar tank position as mine, maybe your tank is a little lower. The thing I see with the HOG 1st is its LP ports are higher, so LP hose go above the wing easily. With Atomic, the LP hose must band up or I have to move tank upward so that LP hose clear the wing.

I will try swapping the LPI and DS hose, and lose that 6" HP tonight.

Thank you all for your advices.

My fundie class? Soon I hope. I was planning to take UTD essential last year, but didn't make it. Hopefully it will happen this year.
 
It appears you need to upgrade your Atomic 1st stage, it looks like the 'old' version which needs the Jetseat piston upgrade. (I had to upgrade one of mine a few years ago.) I'm using the bottom 5th LP port for my 'octo' on a 4' MIFLEX hose. I've got more hoses coming from my 1st stage than you do (I'm diving my 1st-stages as you are showing in your pictures, with the HP ports 'on top') and I have NO issues with crowding/severe bending as you seem to be having. Offhand, I've got 2 advantages over your set up

1) I'm using ALL MIFLEX LP hoses
2) I'm using a SS STA (single tank adapter) which provides a little bit of spacing so that my wing isn't quite as close to my tank compared to your set up.

I'm using Aqualung MIFLEX hose protectors on all my LP hoses, not so much because I really need them, I just like the 'finished' look.

Also, My (2) Atomics are DIN with yoke adapters, so they stick out 'away' from my tank yet I still have enough free space to avoid the hose crowding you're experiencing.
 
It appears you need to upgrade your Atomic 1st stage, it looks like the 'old' version which needs the Jetseat piston upgrade. (I had to upgrade one of mine a few years ago.) I'm using the bottom 5th LP port for my 'octo' on a 4' MIFLEX hose. I've got more hoses coming from my 1st stage than you do (I'm diving my 1st-stages as you are showing in your pictures, with the HP ports 'on top') and I have NO issues with crowding/severe bending as you seem to be having. Offhand, I've got 2 advantages over your set up

1) I'm using ALL MIFLEX LP hoses
2) I'm using a SS STA (single tank adapter) which provides a little bit of spacing so that my wing isn't quite as close to my tank compared to your set up.

I'm using Aqualung MIFLEX hose protectors on all my LP hoses, not so much because I really need them, I just like the 'finished' look.

Also, My (2) Atomics are DIN with yoke adapters, so they stick out 'away' from my tank yet I still have enough free space to avoid the hose crowding you're experiencing.

Yes, I was told about the jet seat upgrade. But when I took the 1st into Anywater Sport in Santa Clara (one suggested and highly recommended) by Darcy, the tech/owner told me I do not need it. If I have extra $70 to spare, he is happy to do it for me. So what is the deal with the jet seat? Is upgrade a necessary?

As for STA, I do have a STA in there already, made by Deep Out Door, maybe it is one of the lower profile one. If I don't use it, the tank is even closer to the wing. As for DIN to Yoke, I have some experiece with that too. I came from a DIN hollis DC2 with Yoke adapter. With that setup, the reg stick out more. DC2 is shorter than the Atomic, and LP hose come out parallel to the side, so hose banding isn't a issue. However, it sticks out too much and hit my head when I look up.

What plate you are using? I found DiveRite plate is one of the flattest plate out there, so it make the tank very close to the plate. I wonder if this is the cupit here.
 
The transmitter also doesn't need to be on a hose, and should be solidly mounted to the reg.

The transmitter can be mounted anyway one wants. It does not need to be solidly mounted to the first stage either. It just needs to conencted to a HP source. The reason many put it on a short hose is not for the owner's convenience but to protect it from deck dorks grabbing and reefing on it when schlepping your gear on board.

Yes, I was told about the jet seat upgrade. But when I took the 1st into Anywater Sport in Santa Clara (one suggested and highly recommended) by Darcy, the tech/owner told me I do not need it. If I have extra $70 to spare, he is happy to do it for me. So what is the deal with the jet seat? Is upgrade a necessary?

It is only necessary if you are seeing creep with the first stage. The real problem is that the HP seats for the old style piston are no longer made. So eventually you will have to upgrade.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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