ednedfred
Contributor
Just returned on 6/4 from 8 days in Playa Del Carmen. The last two years, we've gone to Cozumel, so I wasn't expecting much (compared with Coz). To my suprise, however, I really enjoyed the diving there.
We stayed at the Iberostar Tucan which is about a $5 cab ride to downtown Playa. Most of the larger resorts are south of town, but cabs are plentiful and generally clean and safe. I researched a number of dive opts prior to leaving and chose to dive with Abyss based on a fair number of recommendations. I contacted them on the web and gave them my schedule (wanted to dive at least two Ceynotes and a few ocean dives as well). Unfortunately, by the time we arrived at the Iberostar, I was shot. Customs, two kids, 6:15 a.m. flight, a couple of cervesa's, you name it. I knew better, but I was lazy. I walked over to Dressel Divers which is the dive operation at all Iberostar locations and booked my trip at a significant premium to what Abyss charges as I didn't want the cab hassel. I know, I'm an idiot, as I've bad mouthed Dressel Divers in Cozumel on a number of occasions on this site. Something fishy with Dressel is they make you prepay for your dives. More about that later. Anyway, on to the diving:
Day 1
Arrived promptly at 8:45 a.m. as instructed to dive the Mama Vina (80 ft. wreck)with Dressel Divers. Dressel posts their dive sites on a large board and the girl who booked my dives agreed that the group visits the Mama Vina every Saturday. I was greeted by my dive master in this manner, "You are late!" Nice to meet you too, I was told to be here at 8:45 and it's 8:45 now. "You should have been here at 8:30." I wrote this one off as a miscommunication, relax, you're on vacation here. "Today, we'll be diving Tortuga." Now I'm red hot as we were supposed to dive the wreck. There were two other divers who had just completed the resort course diving and the DM said that they weren't ready for the Mama Vina yet. The girl who booked my dives stated that their would be no new divers with me...great start to a vacation. I said screw it I'm not diving with you idiots, however my wife happened to walk by and told me to relax.
Anyway, I dove Tortuga. Dressel does not load your BC onto your tanks, but I was okay with that as I want to make sure it suits my standards. The dive started with me waiting @ 23 feet for 14 minutes while the DM attempted to help one of the other divers equalize. When the dive finally began, it was nice. Water temp. 82 degrees lots of turtles (approx. 10) and they weren't shy about coming up to you either. Coral was smaller than Cozumel but the fish were significantly more plentiful. Viz was 80 - 90 feet and the drift was approximately 2 knots. Only dove to 52 feet but it felt great to be in warm water again. The two newbies sucked air like elephants so the DM asked me to surface with 1400 lbs. left in my tank. The girl who had difficulty equalizing popped to the surface with no safety stop. She was okay but forgot to deflate her BC while surfacing. After we got on the boat, I asked where the 2nd dive was going to be. "We only do one tank dives." I was angry with myself for being so stupid. When I returned to the Iberostar, I asked for my money back for the balance of the dives and really had a hard time getting it back. They wanted to give me a credit towards diving next year...well, I knew better. Lesson learned, I will never dive with Dressel again. Two trips, two bad trips...that's a trend.
Day 2
Called Jason @ Abyss and told him I wanted to dive. As luck had it, they had a trip on Sunday going to two Ceynotes (Chikin Ha and Taj Mahal). Arrived at 8:30 at Abyss and what a difference, very professional, laid back, pay at the end of your trip...the complete opposite of Dressel. The Ceynotes take about 6.5 hours to dive as their is significant travel time to each (about 45 minutes apart). The first dive was Chikin Ha. I've never dove a Ceynote before so I was a tad nervous. Our DM was Diego and he really did an outstanding job of prepping and giving us the history of the Ceynotes. Our dive lasted approximately 45 minutes with a max depth of 37 feet. Visibility was unlimited. Their were lots of light passages with several passages in which to pop up and enjoy the scenery. We needed lights on the trip but you could almost always see light if you had to surface. Water temp. was 72 degrees which felt good. I wore a 3 mill shorty with a 6 mill hood. A couple of the other divers wore 3 mill full suits with no hoods and were a little chilly. After Chikin Ha, we visited Taj Mahal. 48 minute bottom time, 73 degree water. Max depth 44 feet. Taj Mahal was very different than Chikin Ha in that it had more stalagtites and stalagmites. Amazing viz with what appeared to be more narrow passages. Awesome experience, I felt like I was on the moon.
Day 3
I hung out with the family and visited Hel Ha, which was fun and expensive. If you choose to go, arrive early. Park opens at 9:00 and was virtually empty. Got crowded later.
Day 4
Met at Abyss at 8:30 and dove Islote with a guy from TX and a girl from DC. Mitch was our DM. He did a teriffic job (on both days). 38 minute dive to 79 feet. Tons of fish, however the coral was signifantly smaller but appeared very healthy. For some reason, the baracuda were out. We saw two schools of smaller ones and at least 10 big jokers. Very nice dive however the southerly wind was making the seas a little rough. 2nd dive was to Sabalos. 43 feet for 42 minutes. Saw a Ray and a bunch of turtles. Very good visibility...a great day of diving.
Day 5
I was the only diver going out in the morning and again dove with Mitch. We dove the Mama Vina which is an 80 foot wreck that was sunk to help the reef system. The boat rests on a sandy bottom at 90 feet. There is mild current around a coupl of portions of the boat so you need decend when you feel these. Overall, the wreck is in good shape. Their is one main cabin on the back that's about 10 feet by 12 feet that you can enter. Now, I have never been spooked my baracuda but today was the exception. There was a 6 foot baracuda hanging in there and he wouldn't move. Needless to say, I didn't want to bother him so I didn't go in. Saw some things that looked like catepillars on the dive. Mitch said don't touch them or they will sting. I'm not sure what they are called. In Arkansas, we call them critters. 2nd dive was Baracuda Reef. 44 feet for 58 minutes. Shallow reef dive lots of cool fish. Actually saw a porcupine fish on this dive. Ugly little rascal. Irony is this reef is named for baracuda but I didn't see any...that's good news.
The next two days just hung out with the family and visited Playa for souvenier hunting. We had a great time and will visit again.
Now, to recap:
Dressel Divers - BAD
Abyss Divers - GREAT
Ceynotes - You feel like you're on a different planet
Ocean diving - Different than Cozumel but still a lot of fun.
Thanks for reading.
We stayed at the Iberostar Tucan which is about a $5 cab ride to downtown Playa. Most of the larger resorts are south of town, but cabs are plentiful and generally clean and safe. I researched a number of dive opts prior to leaving and chose to dive with Abyss based on a fair number of recommendations. I contacted them on the web and gave them my schedule (wanted to dive at least two Ceynotes and a few ocean dives as well). Unfortunately, by the time we arrived at the Iberostar, I was shot. Customs, two kids, 6:15 a.m. flight, a couple of cervesa's, you name it. I knew better, but I was lazy. I walked over to Dressel Divers which is the dive operation at all Iberostar locations and booked my trip at a significant premium to what Abyss charges as I didn't want the cab hassel. I know, I'm an idiot, as I've bad mouthed Dressel Divers in Cozumel on a number of occasions on this site. Something fishy with Dressel is they make you prepay for your dives. More about that later. Anyway, on to the diving:
Day 1
Arrived promptly at 8:45 a.m. as instructed to dive the Mama Vina (80 ft. wreck)with Dressel Divers. Dressel posts their dive sites on a large board and the girl who booked my dives agreed that the group visits the Mama Vina every Saturday. I was greeted by my dive master in this manner, "You are late!" Nice to meet you too, I was told to be here at 8:45 and it's 8:45 now. "You should have been here at 8:30." I wrote this one off as a miscommunication, relax, you're on vacation here. "Today, we'll be diving Tortuga." Now I'm red hot as we were supposed to dive the wreck. There were two other divers who had just completed the resort course diving and the DM said that they weren't ready for the Mama Vina yet. The girl who booked my dives stated that their would be no new divers with me...great start to a vacation. I said screw it I'm not diving with you idiots, however my wife happened to walk by and told me to relax.
Anyway, I dove Tortuga. Dressel does not load your BC onto your tanks, but I was okay with that as I want to make sure it suits my standards. The dive started with me waiting @ 23 feet for 14 minutes while the DM attempted to help one of the other divers equalize. When the dive finally began, it was nice. Water temp. 82 degrees lots of turtles (approx. 10) and they weren't shy about coming up to you either. Coral was smaller than Cozumel but the fish were significantly more plentiful. Viz was 80 - 90 feet and the drift was approximately 2 knots. Only dove to 52 feet but it felt great to be in warm water again. The two newbies sucked air like elephants so the DM asked me to surface with 1400 lbs. left in my tank. The girl who had difficulty equalizing popped to the surface with no safety stop. She was okay but forgot to deflate her BC while surfacing. After we got on the boat, I asked where the 2nd dive was going to be. "We only do one tank dives." I was angry with myself for being so stupid. When I returned to the Iberostar, I asked for my money back for the balance of the dives and really had a hard time getting it back. They wanted to give me a credit towards diving next year...well, I knew better. Lesson learned, I will never dive with Dressel again. Two trips, two bad trips...that's a trend.
Day 2
Called Jason @ Abyss and told him I wanted to dive. As luck had it, they had a trip on Sunday going to two Ceynotes (Chikin Ha and Taj Mahal). Arrived at 8:30 at Abyss and what a difference, very professional, laid back, pay at the end of your trip...the complete opposite of Dressel. The Ceynotes take about 6.5 hours to dive as their is significant travel time to each (about 45 minutes apart). The first dive was Chikin Ha. I've never dove a Ceynote before so I was a tad nervous. Our DM was Diego and he really did an outstanding job of prepping and giving us the history of the Ceynotes. Our dive lasted approximately 45 minutes with a max depth of 37 feet. Visibility was unlimited. Their were lots of light passages with several passages in which to pop up and enjoy the scenery. We needed lights on the trip but you could almost always see light if you had to surface. Water temp. was 72 degrees which felt good. I wore a 3 mill shorty with a 6 mill hood. A couple of the other divers wore 3 mill full suits with no hoods and were a little chilly. After Chikin Ha, we visited Taj Mahal. 48 minute bottom time, 73 degree water. Max depth 44 feet. Taj Mahal was very different than Chikin Ha in that it had more stalagtites and stalagmites. Amazing viz with what appeared to be more narrow passages. Awesome experience, I felt like I was on the moon.
Day 3
I hung out with the family and visited Hel Ha, which was fun and expensive. If you choose to go, arrive early. Park opens at 9:00 and was virtually empty. Got crowded later.
Day 4
Met at Abyss at 8:30 and dove Islote with a guy from TX and a girl from DC. Mitch was our DM. He did a teriffic job (on both days). 38 minute dive to 79 feet. Tons of fish, however the coral was signifantly smaller but appeared very healthy. For some reason, the baracuda were out. We saw two schools of smaller ones and at least 10 big jokers. Very nice dive however the southerly wind was making the seas a little rough. 2nd dive was to Sabalos. 43 feet for 42 minutes. Saw a Ray and a bunch of turtles. Very good visibility...a great day of diving.
Day 5
I was the only diver going out in the morning and again dove with Mitch. We dove the Mama Vina which is an 80 foot wreck that was sunk to help the reef system. The boat rests on a sandy bottom at 90 feet. There is mild current around a coupl of portions of the boat so you need decend when you feel these. Overall, the wreck is in good shape. Their is one main cabin on the back that's about 10 feet by 12 feet that you can enter. Now, I have never been spooked my baracuda but today was the exception. There was a 6 foot baracuda hanging in there and he wouldn't move. Needless to say, I didn't want to bother him so I didn't go in. Saw some things that looked like catepillars on the dive. Mitch said don't touch them or they will sting. I'm not sure what they are called. In Arkansas, we call them critters. 2nd dive was Baracuda Reef. 44 feet for 58 minutes. Shallow reef dive lots of cool fish. Actually saw a porcupine fish on this dive. Ugly little rascal. Irony is this reef is named for baracuda but I didn't see any...that's good news.
The next two days just hung out with the family and visited Playa for souvenier hunting. We had a great time and will visit again.
Now, to recap:
Dressel Divers - BAD
Abyss Divers - GREAT
Ceynotes - You feel like you're on a different planet
Ocean diving - Different than Cozumel but still a lot of fun.
Thanks for reading.
. We spent all day there, and were quite waterlogged by the end of the day.
