It doesn't have to be motion blur to be caused by motion. If the camera moves position after it has focus locked it will produce an out of focus picture.
Pics out of focus, what am I doing wrong?!
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True, but a less likely scenario... This would require someone to lock on the subject, hold the lock with a partially pressed shutter, and then move towards or away from it before firing. It would be even less likely if all of the OPs photos had the same focus error..
Usually the problem with new photographers in this situation is that they just push the button all the way down as soon as the shot is composed. This means that there is only a brief instant between the time the focus locks and the exposure is taken, so focus drift isn't the issue.
The AF has to lock on to something, or the camera won't make an exposure at all (at least with point and shoot cameras in an automatic mode). The problem is that it locks somewhere other than the subject. The camera can't tell that the thing that you want to take a picture of isn't in focus, it just gets feedback that a focus lock has been achieved and fires the shutter...
That's true. For that reason I prefer using spot focus myself - but then you have to be really sure what the camera is pointing at when it achieves focus. At the end of the day though it really IS about staying still on the shot. Lot's of divers are still moving....not just the camera....the whole diver, when they take a shot. I've seen photos from people who have never used a camera U/W before, but have excellent dive skills.....buoyancy, trim - they're just rock steady in the water - and you can see it immediately in their shots.
In this case it might possibly be a "too close to focus" problem, or as you say, a misfocus on the wrong thing - but I'd personally still bet on movement of the diver, and therefore also the camera. Obviously I can't be sure though.
Papa_Bear
Contributor
The whole picture is out, so I would say too close, or one other possibility would be fogging! Even a little will fool the lens, so make sure your lens is not fogged as well! If your going to get close use macro setting or back off a little...... The camera will usually not let you snap the photo unless it thinks it is focused unless it does lock the focus and all three can do that, Fogged, Motion, or Macro?
Yup, lots of possible explanations...
Probably best for the OP to experiment in a pool to see which of these things might be going on. Fogging should be visible, minimal focus distance can be checked by taking pictures of your feet in the shallow end, and focus lock issues can be practiced.
I hope that this doesn't sound "elitist", but the bottom line is that good diving skills are VERY important in getting good photos. I see a lot of beginning divers who take a snapshot camera with them and just shoot away. This works fine topside, but not so much underwater. I'm not saying that the OP has this problem, but I think that it it important for people to be very comfortable with diving before they can expect to get even reasonably good images. You need to be able to hold still and think about the shot. If you are still at the point when just keeping it together underwater is foremost in your mind, it will be much harder to concentrate on the details of photography.
One issue is that as the price of underwater point and shoot digital cameras has dropped, it has put them into more and more people's price ranges. So in the past, you had to be really committed to sink a few thousand dollars into a DSLR rig, or to put up with the very flat learning curve of film. Now, people take underwater cameras along like they might in any other tourist situation and just snap away.
With a modern point and shoot, someone who has no idea about shutter speed, ISO, or f stops can get terrific topside snapshots in all sorts of difficult lighting conditions. Underwater, there are just so many variables that you really can't expect more than the occasional lucky shot to turn out if you don't put in the time to learn the basics and have the comfort level to apply them.
Mike
Probably best for the OP to experiment in a pool to see which of these things might be going on. Fogging should be visible, minimal focus distance can be checked by taking pictures of your feet in the shallow end, and focus lock issues can be practiced.
I hope that this doesn't sound "elitist", but the bottom line is that good diving skills are VERY important in getting good photos. I see a lot of beginning divers who take a snapshot camera with them and just shoot away. This works fine topside, but not so much underwater. I'm not saying that the OP has this problem, but I think that it it important for people to be very comfortable with diving before they can expect to get even reasonably good images. You need to be able to hold still and think about the shot. If you are still at the point when just keeping it together underwater is foremost in your mind, it will be much harder to concentrate on the details of photography.
One issue is that as the price of underwater point and shoot digital cameras has dropped, it has put them into more and more people's price ranges. So in the past, you had to be really committed to sink a few thousand dollars into a DSLR rig, or to put up with the very flat learning curve of film. Now, people take underwater cameras along like they might in any other tourist situation and just snap away.
With a modern point and shoot, someone who has no idea about shutter speed, ISO, or f stops can get terrific topside snapshots in all sorts of difficult lighting conditions. Underwater, there are just so many variables that you really can't expect more than the occasional lucky shot to turn out if you don't put in the time to learn the basics and have the comfort level to apply them.
Mike
find some little sachets of silica gel, make sure they are dry (i put them on a plate on top of the cooker (not inside it) as it is cooling down to dry out ) and that they are kept dry (ie an airtight box) insert one into your camera housing when you set it up. That helps.
using autofocus there are usually 2 positions on the shutter button, one to engage the autofocus & one to take the picture. Relax, half press the button, pause & fully depress it, don't be in a hurry let it happen in its own time.
using autofocus there are usually 2 positions on the shutter button, one to engage the autofocus & one to take the picture. Relax, half press the button, pause & fully depress it, don't be in a hurry let it happen in its own time.
Hetland
Contributor
I've got the 570IS, and it looks like you are too close and out of macro mode.
I am by no means an expert. I've had my camera for several months, and I am just now getting photographs that don't embarrass me. It's a learning process, and (to me at least) it's considerably more difficult than shooting good pics in air. I am getting the hang of the whole process though, and I just picked up a very nice strobe, so now I can "cheat" a little
Here is some of what I have learned:
Don't forget your video mode. That little camera will take some nice vid for the price.
If you're looking to spend more money, invest in the nicest strobe you can afford (think double what your camera and housing cost, then add $200, and another $50-$100 for a fiber optic cable, and another $100-$200 on an arm and tray)
I am by no means an expert. I've had my camera for several months, and I am just now getting photographs that don't embarrass me. It's a learning process, and (to me at least) it's considerably more difficult than shooting good pics in air. I am getting the hang of the whole process though, and I just picked up a very nice strobe, so now I can "cheat" a little
Here is some of what I have learned:
- Switch to macro mode for anything around 16" and under.
- Practice being PERFECTLY still during your shutter release. This means buoyancy control.
- Press ½ down to focus. The aiming square should turn green if everything is right, yellow if it's iffy, and red if you are all wrong.
- I shoot AV mode, and keep it set around 5.
- ISO should be as low as you can get it, but bump it up if necessary until you feel safer. (I'd not shoot over 400 though)
- Keep your housing out of the sunlight. This allows heat to build, and will fog your housing.
- Shoot 100 crappy photos for every one "good" photo.
- Learn how to manually set your white balance (good for pics and video).
Don't forget your video mode. That little camera will take some nice vid for the price.
If you're looking to spend more money, invest in the nicest strobe you can afford (think double what your camera and housing cost, then add $200, and another $50-$100 for a fiber optic cable, and another $100-$200 on an arm and tray)
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