Phosphoric Acid for rust cleaning / inhibitor: Mixture and Procedure

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Just thought I’d update this thread with additional results. I’ve learned new lessons and wanted to share.

I cleaned four different tanks after hydro. I used the flash rust mixture: 1/3 cup filled to 1 gallon total. This volume of fluid filled a single tank up to near the opening when they were on their side. This was true for both LP75’s and HP120’s: even the larger tanks were mostly filled. I mixed up two gallons and did two tanks at a time.

I simply placed the tanks on their side and rotated them 1/8 of a turn every 2 minutes. I then followed the rinse and dry procedure outlined above.

Looking at them after pouring the solution out showed dark grey steel with a little sheen of orange. The solution was barely grey. After drying them, the steel was light grey, with a bit more orange. I’m not sure if the orange was more noticeable after drying, or if they rusted a bit during the dry process. I suspect the former: I’ve used this rinse and drying process before with less resulting orange.

I suspect that the issue might be the strength of the solution or the amount of dwell time. This is the first time I’ve used the “flash rust” solution. I think it’s too weak for great/fast results. As a comparison, I reused the solution for the second set of tanks and got a similar result (improved but not pristine), so I don’t think the acid was exhausted, just maybe not done yet.

Looking back over my previous notes, I did more like 30 minutes of dwell instead of the 16 I did today. And the original source of this process suggests 30-60 minutes of tumbling. Plus my previous attempt used a stronger mixture. So it’s probably not reasonable to expect the same results! :)

These are my personal tanks and they look better than any tank I’ve ever had straight from hydro, so I will use them as they are. In the future, though, I think I’ll step up to the mildly-rusty mix. I don’t have a tumbler, and babysitting these to rotate them every few minutes is annoying. I’d rather use a touch more acid and (hopefully) get better results without taking more time. But next time I’ll check them after 15 minutes and if I see a bit of orange I’ll know they’ll need more time. Patience is a virtue. :)

Also, some specifics on the drying process: I didn’t time it, but I found that it took 300 PSI of drying air (from an LP72) to go from warm, moist air to cool air. The tank was still warm at that point. I kept drying until the tank was not actively warm, which was another 100 PSI. My wild guess is that the air drying took between 2 and 3 minutes total.
 
Bumping this up because I have some rusty tanks to deal with. Ospho is available locally.
I've also got a DIY whip which has worked decently in the past. I'm tempted to start with the whip then move to the Ospho before I send these for hydro then do a final treatment with a weaker solution for O2 cleaning when they get back. Most of the rust appears in the bottom where the whip does a good job. Could I possibly use the whip with a bit of ospho in the bottom at the same time?

Quite a bit of rust on the outside too unfortunately with the Faber white paint bubbling. Not sure I'm ready to strip and repaint them, would using the Ospho there make sense. Possibly with some touch up using white enamel?
 
I would not bother to do anything until they come back from being requalified. Just a waste of time.
 
I use about 1/2 to 2/3rds of a cup of the 85% in a gallon. But if it's just an orange sheen to the interior I wouldn't even bother. *At most* my tanks have a few rust flecks on the bottom that are a huge pain to tumble and easier to just acid wash
 
Could I possibly use the whip with a bit of ospho in the bottom at the same time?
Anything that runs the risk of splatters or extra dribbles going everywhere is probably a really bad idea. Actual phosophoric acid does not require mechanical action although I put mine on the tumbler to mix it all around
 
Anything that runs the risk of splatters or extra dribbles going everywhere is probably a really bad idea. Actual phosophoric acid does not require mechanical action although I put mine on the tumbler to mix it all around
I ended up doing the whip, then blowing out any rust I knocked loose then an hour with 8oz of ospho sloshing and rotating them every 15 minutes with the first 15 upright. Dumped the Ospho for later use, poured in a kettle of nearly boiling water then dried with clean air.
Very happy with the results. I'll send them to hydro like this and see how they come back.
 
Hempocid was used for years to clean regulator components at local shops. It was around 10-15% phosphoric acid; a great degreaser, along with a bactericide . . .
 
. . . or 15% Hydrochloric acid for about 10 minutes in the vibrating machine
 
I was struggling with the general math about mixing proportions earlier a few months back - Not for tank cleaning but reg cleaning in ultrasonics.

As a ready reference, It would be great if the original post#1 could be edited to also include metric units in ml and liters as a universal reference.
Just a suggestion, don’t mean to impose any extra workload on the OP. Else I will post the calculations when I actually find the courage to strain my brain doing it for my next scheduled reg service in 2027 …
 
I was struggling with the general math about mixing proportions earlier a few months back - Not for tank cleaning but reg cleaning in ultrasonics.

As a ready reference, It would be great if the original post#1 could be edited to also include metric units in ml and liters as a universal reference.
Just a suggestion, don’t mean to impose any extra workload on the OP. Else I will post the calculations when I actually find the courage to strain my brain doing it for my next scheduled reg service in 2027 …
For most steel tanks in average (rusty but serviceable) condition about 35ml of 85% acid solution in 1L of water is about right. If you have a very heavily corroded cylinder just use that solution twice or increase the concentration up to about 65mL per liter water. It's not exact science.

A normal scuba cylinder in the 12 to 15L interior volume range takes about 4 or 5L of the diluted acid, roughly 1/3rd full is fine. Be sure to keep the acid rolling around in there.
 

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