Patching Trilaminate

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AKmountaineer

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I have a Bare ATR Trilam suit that has a few small prick holes in the material that penetrate the outer layer, while the interior remains dry. I visited my LDS to see if they had a trilam patch kit available, but no luck and no help. I have seen some rubbery goo used to patched small holes, but is this a correct fix, or is there an actual material patch available? Does anyone know what they name of the rubbery goo is and where one can obtain some?

Thanks.
 
You need to buy a tube of Aquaseal (note there is another product called Aquaseal for water-proofing hiking boots that is not the one you want).

Aquaseal

Many dive shops will carry Aquaseal. You should also try and buy Aquaseal with a bottle of Cotol. When Cotol is mixed with Aquaseal, it dries/cures very quickly. If you aren't in a hurry, then the Aquaseal alone will work. Do the repair from the inside of the suit (esthetically more pleasing).

In a pinch, duct tape works.

You can order Aquaseal from DUI:

DUI
 
jlyle:
You need to buy a tube of Aquaseal (note there is another product called Aquaseal for water-proofing hiking boots that is not the one you want).

Aquaseal

Many dive shops will carry Aquaseal. You should also try and buy Aquaseal with a bottle of Cotol. When Cotol is mixed with Aquaseal, it dries/cures very quickly. If you aren't in a hurry, then the Aquaseal alone will work. Do the repair from the inside of the suit (esthetically more pleasing).

Did you locate the punctures already? The whole turn the suit inside out, plug the seals, michelin man the thing and soapy water spray bottle trick?

If so, you're 1/2 way there. I've repaired mine, my wifes and a friends, and its rare that I go in for a single hole and don't find another leak as well.

Get a snapple cap, or something similiar. Put fill half with Aqua Seal, half with Cotol (50/50 blend... thins the A/S, also makes it dry very quickly.) Get a coffee stirrer or small, cheap, disposable brush. Blend nicely, and brush on over the hole, on the inside, being sure the suit is dry.

This is important - it doesn't have to be too thick. And it will run, so be sure to dry it FLAT.

Be sure to re-test the suit later that afternoon or tomorrow morning... to be sure.

Its really simple to fix these things. This is coming from a complete DIY idiot, and I've done it a bunch of times.

K
 
Aquaseal works great on trilam. I patched a hole in my Bare ATR HD with it.

Don't mix with Cotol unless you have to. I keep hearing that it makes the Aquaseal not last as long. Just patch with a thin layer, let dry overnight, then patch with another thin layer, and you're set.
 
daval:
aquaseal works just as well on Trilam as on Neoprene?

Yep, it does. My old drysuit has more than a few of these patches.
 
DUI use cotol mixed with Aquaseal to seal the seams of their suits, so it better not shorten the life.

The reason for thinning Aquaseal is to allow it to penetrate the nylon outer layer, on either trilam or neoprene, and bond to the base neoprene or butyl. If you don't thin it, you can end up with a patch that sits on top of the nylon, while water continues to wick through it underneath the patch. Some people even suggest using a thinner mixture - say 70/30, for a first coat, when the nylon layer is well worn and fuzzy. or peeling away the nylon in a very small area around the hole, to insure the sealant bonds to the base material and not just the nylon.

Me, I like patches.
 
Good: Duct tape on the inside of the suit. Lasts longer than you would think.

Better: Aquaseal mixed with Cotol (listen to Vance on this.) Both the surface to be repaired and the patch should be cleaned by lightly wiping with Cotol prior to repair.

Best: PB-300 for bomb proof repairs using a patch piece of tri-lam. Clean area and patch material with MEK and then apply several coats of PB-300 to each letting dry between coats. First coat can be thinned with MEK just as with an Aquaseal/Cotol repair. Place patch over hole and apply heat with a heat gun. Compress before cool with a pressure roller. (PB-300 when dry does not adhere on contact but is activated by heat.) For those who are too timid to take a heat gun to their drysuit PB-300 can be activated by lightly brushing on a thin coat of PB-300 or wiping with MEK before the parts are placed together.
 
Thanks for the info Vance. Good to know :)
 
I just picked up my 1st dry suit and my question is what should I get to keep in my repait kit? Sounds like I need some Aquaseal and some duct dape (thanks pug) at a minimum. Do I need a small patch of material as well? If the tear is large enough to need material I might be better off having it repaired professionally.
I picked up some ziptech zipper lube and some pure talc. What am I missing?

Jeff
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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