Palawan Trip Report-Puerto Princesa, Tubbataha, El Nido, Coron

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bill22

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
856
Reaction score
114
Location
Guam, USA
# of dives
1000 - 2499
The trip ended up being a bit of a process this time. I paid for the Tubbataha portion of my trip back in December. I had planned on going on the M/V Southern Cruise. That boat ended up not going out and I was switched to the M/V Borneo Explorer.

This necessitated some adjustments in my original plans (since I couldn't change the international portion of my tickets). I ended up spending extra time in Puerto Princesa and received a longer trip to Tubbataha. I only got one dive day in El Nido (due to boat schedules) and 3 dive days in Coron (due to available flights). I would have liked to return to Anilao for a few days but ended up cutting it altogether.

For this trip I decided to buy a new laptop. A HP Mini 1137NR. I'm constantly looking for ways to save weight when I travel. With all the photo and dive gear that I carry on a dive trip, it's already impossible to stay under the 10 kilo limit that is placed on me for some of the smaller commuter turbo-prop airplanes that I sometimes end up flying in.

I was looking for something low-weight, that I could write on, download photos too, and maybe have a few games to kill time with. Also wireless capability that allow me to check email and stay in touch while traveling. The HP Mini fit the bill in all these respects.

During my last trip, I took a 40 gig Photobank to download memory cards too. This time I brought the Mini plus a 320 gig external hard drive. I loaded Photoshop Lightroom onto the external hard drive. I downloaded photos directly from the camera. I normally shoot JPEG fine plus RAW. I had more than enough memory for a 3 week trip. This also allowed me to begin editing photos while still on my trip and gave me place to keep notes for my trip report.

I've also been looking for ways to save weight with dive gear. I switched from a conventional BCD to BP/W configuration with that in mind. I chose a Dive Rite aluminum plate with a simple hogarthian harness. With the Oxycheq Extreme V wing that I chose for it's toughness and durability, my whole setup is barely one kilo. Add in a 3mm wetsuit, mask, fins, snorkel, and assorted small accessories and staying under my weight limit would be relatively easy.

It's the camera gear that puts me over :shakehead:

My camera is a Nikon D300. For lenses I brought a Nikkor 60mm Micro; the Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye Zoom; and the Nikkor 18-200mm Zoom. I use an Ikelite Housing (with dome and flat ports), along with my Ikelite DS125 and Ikelite DS160 substrobes.

The strobes weigh 1.3 kilos each. The housing without the port weighs 3.24 kilos. I haven't weighed the ports, but I estimate another kilo. The 8" dome port is fairly heavy. Total for underwater photo gear comes to approximately 6.84 kilos.

The camera itself weighs 825 grams, plus the weight of the 3 lenses. The 60mm weighs 425 grams, the 18-200mm comes in at 560 grams, and the Tokina is 350 grams. All this together adds up to another 2.16 kilos.

That's almost 9 kilos total weight for camera gear and another kilo for my computer. Throw in the 1.85 kilos for my Lowepro Fastpack 350 camera bag I'm at almost 11 kilos before even getting to dive gear. I'm only allowed 7 kilos for carry-on and 10 kilos for checked for my flight from Busuanga to Manila due to the size of the aircraft.

The end result of all this is that it's impossible for me not to be forced to check at least part of my photo equipment. The housing and accessories I took in a Pelican Case. The dome port and strobes I wrapped in bubble wrap and put in my dive bag using my wetsuit for extra padding.

At Narita I still ended up being 11 kilos over (about the weight of my camera gear without the pelican case). I was charged 29, 400 yen (around $300 US) by Japan Airlines for 11 kilos! I'm sorry that is just highway robbery! The airlines have become very adept at gouging their customers!

I don't know what the answer is, but the actual costs of flying someone and their luggage to a destination, is mostly in how much that individual and their luggage weigh. This means that I paid 29, 400 yen more than one of those people (who I'm sure were on my flight) who outweighs me by 11 kilos. I know they have to place some restrictions on it, and I would not really be opposed to paying a reasonable charge, but to charge me over 60% of my ticket price for excess baggage amounting to 10 % of my body weight just isn't reasonable.

Anyway, I went and had something to eat and a couple of beers and made a decision that I wasn't going to allow it to ruin my vacation. :wink:

Unfortunately I had put all my electrical cords and accessories in my check-in bags. Turns out there are several plugs located in the waiting area. (this was true in Manila also) I could have plugged in and topped off my battery for the flight. Something to keep in mind for my next trip.

It was a bumpy flight all the way from Tokyo to Manila. They were late loading and late leaving about 30 minutes. Food was decent. I had the hamburger steak and a couple of Kirins. Took a small nap, but was mostly awake. Read a book on the flight and watched part of a movie. We landed about 1030.

There was a huge line at immigration. I made conversation with a couple of tourists from Vancouver. They had paid half what I paid (without the excess baggage charge!) a perfect example of why the industry should be regulated.

After waiting almost 30 minutes to get through immigration, it was probably another 15 minutes before my bags came out at baggage claim. After getting waved through customs, I visited the money changer where I got 48.60 pesos to the dollar. I asked at the information counter about nearby hotels since I was flying so early and found out that there was a dayroom at the airport. I opted to pay 860 pesos, rather than leave the airport and pay 3 times that. The day room turned out to be to the left (coming from the gate) just past the duty free shops, before passing through immigration. I checked in, filled out the registration, showed them my passport (so they knew I had already passed through immigration) and paid for six hours in advance. They didn't have change then, but promised it to me later. I was beat as it was after midnight now, so I just went to my room.

I was up at 5:30AM. I had put my laptop on charge before going to sleep. After visiting the wash room and cleaning up, I decided on shorts and flip-flops. I knew it would be hot. I packed away my long pants and shoes. My change had been slid underneath the door during the night. I should mention that the walls were very thin, it's really only a cubicle with a bed. It was not absolutely quiet until after everyone from the last flight had gone. I recommend earplugs!

When I stepped out with my bags, the entry area was quite a contrast from the night before. The entire immigration, baggage claim, and customs areas were empty with the exception of a few security guards, and people coming to work. As I exited the security guard who had helped me the night before remembered me and said good morning. I asked directions and was told to just go out and turn right.

It was about a 15 minute walk to the other terminal pulling my two bags. I showed my passport and ticket to the security guard outside and passing through the first security checkpoint, I headed to the ticket counter. This time I was 20 kilos over, another 2500 pesos later, I was given my boarding pass.

They couldn't change my return flight at the ticket counter, I needed to go to the Philippine Airline Office. This was simple enough to do, I left my boarding pass and photo id with the security guard and exited. After passing through another security checkpoint I entered the PAL office. After a short 5 minute wait, I spoke with an agent. I couldn't change my flight to 4 May because both flights were full. I got on the standby for the 4th and changed my ticket to the first available flight which was on 2 May.

I grabbed some coffee and a sandwich for breakfast near the gate. They started loading the flight around 8AM. I normally just wait for the line to go down first. After about 15 minutes I went to find out why the line didn't seem any shorter. It turned out they were loading two flights at the same gate and the crowd standing around the entrance were waiting for a flight to Cebu.

I walked right on the plane and was one of the last ones to board. This worked out well, since I was able to walk pretty much straight to my seat, stow my bag and sit. Checking in early had worked to my advantage. The agent had given me an emergency row seat, which gave me plenty of leg room :D

After a short (1 hour) ride to Puerto Princesa, the plane arrived only a little late. I opted to allow a porter to help me with my bags. The baggage crates were pulled right up to carousel. I stood and watched as they unloaded them. Just as I suspected, A fragile tag really has no meaning to a baggage handler :eyebrow: My bag was buried along with everyone elses, with bags stacked on top. Luckily everything was well padded!

I was checked in at the airport. I had to show my passport and it was written in a book. Didn't ask why. Maybe I should have. I figured if they wanted to write me in this book, who was I to say no :)

After exiting the airport I caught a trike to my hotel. I was told everyone leaving the airport had to pay 50 pesos I don't know how true that was, but later that day I went a considerably farther distance for only 10 pesos!

When I arrived at Moana Hotel a couple of minutes after leaving the airport, I was met by Nerizza who I had corresponded with prior to my trip. My room was ready. I also met Paolo the owner of the hotel who was my divemaster and guide during my stay in Puerto Princesa.

Paolo who is from Italy, had lived in the Philippines for 8 years and is married to a Filipina whom he has a 15 month old son with. He was very personable and likeable guy. I of course was ready to hit the water. He explained that there were some problems with the boat. He could set me up somewhere else but the boat would be fixed by the next day.

I opted to relax the rest of the day. Caught a trike to GCCC the local shopping center for 10 pesos. Bought a t-shirt and a pair of board shorts and then caught a trike back. Ended up paying 15 pesos coming back. The going rate was supposedly 8 pesos, but I didn't feel like arguing over 10 cents :wink:

When I got back, I checked in with Paolo and set a time for the next morning. Headed over to the hotel bar. Met Sheila who took care of the bar and waited table for the PM shift. Che was back and forth helping Sheila and taking care of the office in the evening. I also met an American expat using the pool and another guy from the Netherlands there on vacation. We had a couple of beers together before they called it a night. I had a pizza that was so good I ordered a second one! I called it a night.

To be continued:

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The next morning I was up at 6AM. Breakfast was very good (bacon and eggs). Lany, the cook, let me cook my own eggs (it always pays to make friends with the cook :wink:) The AM bartender (do they need a bartender at 6AM?:wink:)/waitress was called Baby (maybe because she was young ;-)).

I met Paolo at 7. A jeepney was waiting to take us to the boat. After a short 5 minute ride we were at Pristine Beach where the boat was waiting. It was a really beautiful beach. The tide was out and we were able to drive out on the sand which was hard packed. The gear was loaded and we headed out for the first dive.
It was a nice cool day, a little overcast. I could see it raining off to the east, nearer I could see a rainbow which seemed like a good omen. After a short boat ride (about 20 minutes) we were at the first dive site.

The first dive site was called Maris Rock. Visibility was about 40 feet, not surprising given all the rain. Water temperature was 84F. Great for me as I had been diving in a drysuit in 54F water only 5 days earlier!

Part of my objective was to work on my weighting and getting my harness adjusted prior to Tubbataha. I just switched to a BP/W setup. I had been diving with a SS plate at home, but was now diving with an AL plate to save weight on the plane. I started with 10 lbs and was waaaayyy over-weighted.

The reef and corals were decent. There was a shallow wall and one area like a gully that went up to shallower water. Paolo spotted two different species of nudibranchs for me fairly close together here and another couple later in the dive. 4 different species, 3 of which were new to me. Also the usual collection of batfish, coral groupers, parrotfish, butterflyfish, filefish, damselfish, cowfish, puffers, and even some nice clams. Maximum depth was 65 feet.

We moved the boat to the second dive site called Finger Rock. We followed the reef to where we came across some nice pinnacles. This was a drift dive. Sea stars, damselfish, striped catfish, rainbow runners, cleaner shrimp, banded boxer coral shrimp, 3 different species of nudibranchs (different from the earlier dive), anemonefish, and some nice corals. Visibility was 40-50 feet and water temp was 84F. Maximum depth was 57 feet. I had cut my weight to 8 lbs and was still over-weighted.

After the dive we headed back in. We were literally swarmed by kids around the boat as we headed into the beach. The tide had come up while we were gone and the water reached right up to the small cottages that lined the beach. Lots of people there swimming.

We loaded the gear in the waiting jeepney that Paolo had called on his cell phone while we were on the way in and headed back to Moana. I helped unload the gear and rinse it. Paolo had said he would get it for me, but I didnÃÕ mind. I took care of my camera gear myself. After rinsing it, I took it back to my room where after drying it, I removed the camera from the housing.

I went to the bar, ordered lunch (ham and cheese sandwich and fries) and a San Miguel Light and reviewed my photos. After lunch I spoke to Paolo about diving the next day. He told me there was a place he could take me that was a little bit of ride, but was nice diving. Did I mind paying an extra 500 pesos (around $10US) for fuel. No problem for me. After all, IÃÎ getting a private boat and guide! We agreed to meet again the next morning at 7AM.

After that I went and took a nap. Got up about 5PM and went back to the bar. I ordered a pizza and had a couple of beers while I waited for Robert, the American I had met the day before. He lives in Puerto Princesa and is married to a Filipina. He had offered to take me around and show me some of the local places. We hit a few places including Jess Billiard Bar run by a Canadian expat. He went home to his wife and I eventually ended up at a place located almost next door to Moana called Warehauz. ItÃÔ between Moana and the airport. They had a live band. One of the things I really enjoy about the Philippines is the music. Some of the best live bands IÃ×e heard have been Filipino bands. I had a couple of beers there then headed back to the hotel.

The next morning (Saturday) I was up early again. The same routine as the day before. I came out and my gear was already loaded in the jeepney. I had handed my camera setup to Paolo while I went back to my room to grab something I had forgotten. He told me later than when he handed it to the jeepney driver to load, he had told him to be careful the camera was worth more than his jeepney! I laughed and said it probably was, Paolo laughed and said there was no doubt! We headed over to Pristine Beach where the boat met us. After about an hour and 15 minute ride we were at the first dive site of the day a place called Dipa Wall. I cut my weight to 6 lbs and was still over-weighted.

This area was noticeably nicer than the one the day before. Nice corals along the wall. There were areas where fresh water streams were flowing into the ocean. The water was noticeably cooler. I recorded a temperature of 81F. I saw a little cleaner wrasse working on a lionfish, emperor angelfish, peacock mantis shrimp, lots of anthias, nudibranchs, a nice dive. Maximum depth was 86 feet. Cut my weight to 5 lbs (ended up leaving it there for a couple of dives)

During the surface interval we saw turtles coming up to get a breath and a sailfish break the surface as it chased smaller fish. The second dive at Gallows Wall was even better :)

Another wall dive, the corals were nice. Nice fans, table corals, and leather corals. I saw squirrelfish, a beautiful moray, another mantis shrimp, a couple different types of lionfish, damselfish, butterflyfish, harlequin sweet lips, triggerfish, a nice turtle, cowries, and nudibranchs. Maximum depth on this dive was 73 feet, visibility was 40-50 feet and water temperature was 84F. The dive was well worth the 500 pesos. After arriving back to Pristine Beach, we left the dive gear in the boat and I brought only camera gear back with me. We had already discussed a night dive earlier. I really enjoy night dives for the species that come out at night that you donÃÕ often see during the day.

After arriving back at Moana, I rinsed my housing off, dried it and removed the camera so I could review and download photos. I had lunch, filled out my dive log, and then worked a little on editing photos.

I met Paolo around 6:15 and we headed back over to the boat. This time we stayed fairly close in. Paolo called this area Silica Reef. It was fairly shallow where we started the dive, maybe 20-25 feet. The corals were not in the best of shape here.

Paolo spotted a couple of Pleurobranchus forskali fairly close together near the beginning of the dive. Once we got over the edge of the wall and dropped a little deeper the corals were in much better shape. Lots of crinoids, orange cup and tree corals. A nice little moray, surgeonfish, trumpetfish, pufferfish, squirrelfish, hermit crabs, anemone crabs, boxer shrimp, juvenile batfish, lionfish, and right at the end one of the nicest joruna funebris that IÃ×e seen. I thoroughly enjoyed the dive. Maximum depth was 45 feet, visibility was 40 feet plus (as far as the light would shine), and water temperature was 85F.

Paolo had called and checked on my pickup for Tubbataha. He had told me they would be by at 1PM to pick me up. By 12:30 I had finished packing and took my bags up to the front. I settled my bill and sat down to wait.

I was picked up at my hotel by Kathy. She had been working on the Borneo Explorer for 3 months. She had previously worked as an instructor for 3 years in Grand Cayman. My bags were loaded in the van and we were off to the port.
After arriving at the port, my bags were carried on to the boat. I was escorted to the salon where there were cool drinks and we waited for the others to arrive. It was a very diverse group with people from Russia, England, Germany, Switzerland, Belgium, Thailand, Philippines, and of course the USA all united in a desire to see the wonders of Tubbataha.

I also met Paul our cruise director/boat manager. Paul, a PADI pro, is from Cebu and at other times of the year leads groups on dive trips around the Visayas. After welcoming everyone aboard, doing paperwork, showing our c-cards. We were formally introduced to Kathy who I had met on the way over and Mike from Canada. Kathy and Mike were the dive guides. There were 16 divers total on this trip and we were divided up into two teams. I would be on MikeÃÔ team. Mike is from Canada and had previously worked as an instructor in Vietnam and the Caribbean.

There was a checkout dive at 1400 so everyone could check their weight and I suspect so our experience level could be ascertained :eyebrow:

I was shown my cabin (which had my name on the door), and someone helped me bring my gear up. I would be part of the Red Team on the starboard boat deck. There was already a crate with my name on it. By this time it was almost 1400, so I threw together my camera gear and went to the boat deck where everyone was already putting on their wetsuits and getting ready to go.

The Borneo Explorer has two 30 foot boats set up with outboards. We took one of these out to the mouth of Honda Bay. Looking ashore I saw Pristine Beach where I had dived from with Paolo. After a short brief we all backrolled into the water.

This was a short dive, only 29 minutes. Maximum depth of 57 feet. Water temperature was 85F. We werenÃÕ the far from the harbor. Visibility was only 30-40 feet. I cut another pound down to 4 where I left it for Tubbataha (I would cut again later). As we headed back in we saw some groups of Filipinos sitting on some of the big buoys at the entrance to the harbor. As everyone waived, one held up a bottle of rum and waved to us to come over. We all smiled and laughed and just waved back.

After a quick shower, we met in the salon and then headed into town for last minute purchases. In the van I met Vladamir, Elena, and Yuliya who were all from Russia. We chatted a little. When we got to GCCC I took over as guide since I had been there before and showed them where everything was. I need razors myself. They needed batteries. After showing them where things were, we separated to do our shopping. I ended up walking across the street and purchasing a small bag to put everything in. After an hour we met outside.

After returning to the boat, we met in the salon, the crew were brought in and we were formally introduced by Paul. After introductions and a brief about Tubbataha and the what to expect the boat got underway while we had dinner.

To be continued:

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always enjoy reading your trip reports, Bill.

next installment please.....:)

Thanks! :) I've started on the next installment, but I need to go to bed now, I have to work tomorrow (almost 11PM here).

I should have at least the beginning of Tubbataha up tomorrow evening sometime. I'll be out of town Thursday-Sunday so I plan on trying to get the next installment posted before I leave :)
 
nice detailed report Bill! hope you can post more nudi pics. i noticed that you walked with your bags from NAIA I to the PAL (centennial) terminal?! i cant imagine doing that myself.
 
Bill, I profoundly resent you putting your own personal gain (sleep) before our enjoyment and pleasure!:no: Get back to work on that report!!!!!:rofl3: You've brought this on yourself. If you didn't write such great reports, we wouldn't give a darn if you went to sleep or not! But you do... So go get yerself some cofee and get cracking!!!!!:rofl3::rofl3:

As usual, it's a real pleasure reading your reports Bill!:coffee: I wanted to write up a report about my trip like that, but there was simply too much to write about and I didn't have the time! I can't wait to read about Tubba!

Later!:coffee:
 
I recommend earplugs!

we learned the same thing from being checked in beside caloy's room... cries of "my god! my god!" interspersed with "my heart! my heart!" can be very disconcerting...

great report though, can't wait for the rest of it!

Jag
 
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