palau trip report - the good, and bad

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greg11

Guest
Messages
29
Reaction score
1
Location
Louisville, KY
# of dives
50 - 99
this is going to be a bit rushed so I apologize for the typo's etc. I will add a ton of pics later.

flight. I flew from Louisville, KY to Chicago and then to Tokyo. I stayed 5 nights in Tokyo then flew the 630PM delta flight to Palau from Tokyo. The flight takes around 4 hours and 15 minutes.

Hotel. Palau Royal Resort. I selected this hotel because it was in walking distance to Sams Tours. It's expensive and I found I didnt use any of the "amenities" there. The Pool and beach closes at 7PM. thats right 7pm! What pool closes at 7pm?? I asked and they said to keep drunk people from getting hurt. Well, isnt that the reason we go on vacation... to get drunk and go swimming late at night. A ridiculous rule and it hurt the atmosphere which was stiff. Very nice rooms, nice view, comfee beds but If you are going with sams tours you will find yourself at sams bar / resturaunt after your dives and you will stay until dark, its fun talking to all the divers and people living on sailboats. I spent so little time in my room that I felt it was a waste of money and I should have got a cheaper room. Did I mention the pool closes at 7pm! crazy.

Sams tours. - Great bar, great food, great atmosphere, no need to go any place else but I have some questions lingering. There are inside reef dives and outside reef dives. Blue corner is outside. I dove german chanel twice in my 5 days and both times Vis sucked. I did see a manta but big deal if you cant see it. I think its over rated dive and a waste of time. I got a sense the dive masters and boat captains liked to stay close to sams, and not go outside the reef. I know its a longer boat ride and harder to reach but Blue Corner should be offered on every dive. We had to practically beg to go there. That's ridiculous. Its the best dive there even if the surface is rocking and rolling. Big drop off was another great dive. The wall is fantastic. The other dives are ok and we missed Ulong channel. You have to sign up for that dive because the boat needs to leave earlier. They failed to mention that to us. Sais corner is also missed because the guides just wanted to stay inside the reef. One dive master who was great was worried about the reef hooks, says they are damaging the reef but 15 feet back from the ledge is a old creek bed that is hard as a rock, no life, so palau should install meal hooks and just let people hook on to the hooks installed in the creek bed to prevent any additional damage. We also had new people on every dive boat each day so we always felt limited. Sams should split the boats up based on experience. Sams also limits the dives, so if you have an air sucker you all come up. its drifting so you can spend your extra air just trolling around the moring line. People were coming up with 1500-1200 PSI. The dive masters are great, I just think there is a little misconception about what is expected. Blue corner will knock your socks off. It's a must do dive, at least twice. The current was nothing. i held onto my reef hook with my finger, i never attached it to my BC. The current is over rated at least this time of the year. We did do one dive where the current was ripping, so I firmly tell everyone to buy a scuba sausage. I also hired a private guide for the first 3 days. It turns out their private guides are not even employees of sams, at least not paid, they are earning their keep and learning the dive sites. I tipped him good. I just wanted the extra attention incase something happened. I never found myself below 60 feet on any dive and it was perfectly safe. I say hogwash to those who say Palau is for advanced divers. You obviosly have not dive west palm beach or florida.

Dont expect much top side and the boat rides are long. I have never seen so many fish and corals in pristine condition. one dive I counted 25 sharks.

Sames really should offer 3 tanks dives on the reef


Jellyfish lake- they also failed to tell us they lose 30% of the dives because of ear infections after the lake so go on your last day of diving. A lot of bacteria in the lake, but is a must do.

So in summary Grand Cayman East end and Palau are my all time favorite dive locataion.s Next I want to try Bonaire.
 
We also had new people on every dive boat each day so we always felt limited. Sams should split the boats up based on experience.

I also hired a private guide for the first 3 days. I just wanted the extra attention incase something happened. I never found myself below 60 feet on any dive and it was perfectly safe.

Perhaps they got the impression that you weren't entirely confident doing the deeper/higher current dives and placed you on the boats doing the easier dives.
 
I actually thought about that and do respect that. Several places I have dove split the boat up and that is totally cool. We just got the impression that is the seas are a bit rough they want to stay inside the reef. If that is the case buy larger boats. The sea's rockin and rollin had no effect on blue corner, it was pristine once under but man we got beat to hell getting out there, it was a rough ride. I can totally understand why they dont want to go there if the swells are up. Blue corner is also an enviromental issue, too many divers and the place will take a hit, it already has and there is talk of closing it for 6 months. I honestly think they need to install permanant hook in points and limit the dives, just like they do at mary's place in roatan.

In summary, Blue corner and big drop off wall dive can not be missed, they are excellent. Palau is a must do for people into corals, anemomes, clams and the big stuff, it's pristine. I think the main complaint from many divers was the cost to get to palau, we wanted to see blue corner and be able to select our dives, not have a dive master select based on his opinion. It would be best if they stuck the same people all week on the same boat with the same dive master so you can form a bond. They stuck most the people on the same boat, but switched out the dive masters, so no, there was not a newbie boat and an experienced boat. Nitrox and Air divers were mixed on the same boat every day, and every day we had a new diver arrive, so one dive master said since there is a new diver on the boat we cant go to blue corner which left the rest of us scratching our heads saying WTF. It just felt like one excuse after another not to go to blue corner, it's a great dive. The wall dives are superb but man, blue corner just rocks.
 
You did not go to Kramer's? Nor Taj? I like Sam's, but you missed 2 very good places for food and drink. One of the best experiences of my dive trips was a meal at Taj Palau where we ate dinner with people from Vietnam, France, Scotland, Germany, Australia, Japan, Brooklyn, Brazil and a few other places that I cannot recall. We all ordered something and put it onto the huge rotating center where it was passed about for all to try. Amazing conversations, wonderful food and great drinks. The best part was that this feast was pretty reasonably priced. (At least I seem to think so...)

As to depth and current of the dives, it sounds like they kept you on the easier dives for some reason. Something is odd here. Your experiences regarding depth and tide are both very different than my trips there with Sam's. We washed through Ulong at such high rip that we did cartwheels and were racing along. The rip of one was far greater than the Pelilieu Express by far. I see no mention of Dexter's Wall, Chandelier Caves, New Drop Off, Pelilieu Express, Yellow Wall (These last 2 are extra cost and time to get there) or any of the wrecks.

But I do agree that German Channel runs a pretty high percent chance of seeing the guide's fins going into the silty current before aimlessly blowing bubbles and finally popping up to the surface in confusion and frustration. I am jealous of your seeing mantas there. I tried hard, but did not see any. This was one of my worst dives ever. Oddly mixed beside many of the best. Go figure.

But I have to agree that there are a lot of fish and fun things to see in Palau and I would have no problem going through Sam's again. (actually, I did - went back after only 8 weeks, because I bragged about the trip to my son and he had to go -- so I had to go again. The sacrifices that we make for our young ones...)
If you can manage the time and cost of getting there, it is a great trip.

Rabby
 
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I have been there with both Sams and the Palau aggressor. Current at blue corner varies. Twice there was hardly any current and on one of those dives we did not even bother to hook in. One time medium current and the 4th dive it was ripping. Too bad about missing ulong channel. I think that is my favorite site. German channel has poor vis but on my last dive there the scad had were forced into a bait ball and then attacked by blue fin trevally. That got the sharks excited and some barracuda joined the fun. This was crazy fun to watch when suddenly a manta came flying in over the whole menagerie. I sat back and thought, "yeah this is why I came to Palau".
If you want to do 3 dives a day with Sam's it is easy. Just pay in advance and they will put you on the 3 dives a day boat. I will say that the divers on my boat were consistantly the most experienced and competent divers I've ever shared the water with. While diving with Sams I met up with Scott who goes for 2 or 3 weeks every yr and he showed me a lot of the ropes in town - along with Kramers. He is the one who told me about pre paying for the 3 dive per day boats etc. Thank goodness for friends who share info and experience. I'm a bit of an air hog with a sac rate of between .45 and .54 so I asked for and got 100's instead of 80's. I'm glad did because it allowed me3 to keep up with the slim trim crowd. Usually I'm about average for a guy but as I said, this was an extremely experienced crowd.
The current out Pelileu was absolutely nuts on all 4 dives I did out there. Fabulous sites but a long ride from Sam's. I did them from the Aggressor though as we were able to park the boat nearby and dive from the tender (all aggressor diving in Palau is from the tender). Cuts the trip down to about 4 minutes instead of an hour plus.
A final note. A storm came up while I was diving with Sam's for a couple of days. I and most others were quite gratefull not to pound out to the outer reef sites. You probably have young kidneys and spine but for those of us with a few more years, well the inside reefs are a great alternative. I'm glad you enjoyed your trip. I think you made a wise choice having a guide at first. It sounds like you were on a less experienced boat but I'm sure that will change next time you go. Happy diving.
 
duplicate post
 
So in August, I will be moving to Palau for about 7 months for work. I will have about every Sunday off and every other weekend sat and sun off. Any suggestions on things to do first??
 
There really isn't a whole lot to do except dive. You could take a boat to Peleliu and visit the sites of some of the most vicious Pacific battles of WW II. I visited the airstrip - still in use today - andsome of the landing areas.

Jim
 
Kayaking should take a few Sundays; touring the island will take 2 days and diving could be done for a very long time. I would go hang out at Sam's and get to know their people.
 
Well, this is my first post on Scubaboard, but I was so shocked by the pool comment, that I had to let you know that I totally agree. Why fly half way around the world, and stay somewhere where you can't get drunk and swim in the pool at night??? Outrageous!
 
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