Painting a Tank

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PiranhaChris

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Hello fellow Scuba Boarders.......first off I know this topic was talked about already awhile ago, but it didn't answer any of my questions........so here's my plan.....

I want to buy a New Aluminum 80 (bare nothing on it).
I want to spray it down with a Gray Primer (similar to what's used on cars and I know will adhere to Aluminum)
I want to bust out my Oil paints and do some nice art work on it (if you will)
Finally, take a can of clear coat (again similar to what's used on cars) and lay down a few coats.

This whole process doesn't involve any Heat, just Air drying.
The tank, if used at all, will be in Fresh water.
And I will predetermine where the strap of my BCD will lay and do what's necessary around it..

What do you guys think? Do able? :)
 
Why spend so much time and effort on something that just gets scrapped up rather quickly.
 
As the Captain has said it will get beat up even when you treat it "nice".
If you are just joining your two loves ..... have at it!
See you topside! John
 
...Do able? :)
Absolutely.
I'll be interested in seeing your finished product.
--yes, it'll get beat up, but so what? You can let it develop its "character" as it gets its scratches & dings, and if it gets to the point where it's "just too ugly" you can strip and paint again as often as you like (with a cold process).
:)
Rick
 
Thanks for the replies guys.
And yeah I know it's gonna get "beat up". But that's why it's gonna get Multiple coat of clear coat. And that's also why I'm gonna be accommodating my BCD strap location, so that way it'll sit on the tank and not the "piece".
And at the Very least......I see it as something Cool I know I can do, and maybe display at the Dive shop I'm with. But I think it would be cool to bust out at Dutch Springs. Something different you know guys. :)
 
I have a lifetime in automotive, aircraft, and marine application refinishing.

Here's my suggestion.
If the tank is brand new aluminum (brushed finish) then I can almost guarantee that it has a clear coat on it to keep that metallic luster, otherwise it would get dull and form a patina.
You'll need to strip off that clear coat with some paint stripper or sand it off with 80 - 120 grit on a DA sander (dual action sander), an electric palm sander will do.

After you get down to bare aluminum wash the tank first with alumaprep 33 (phosphoric acid solution) it will clean the aluminum down to the pores. Follow the directions on the bottle exactly.
Next, brush on a coat of Alodine (chromate conversion coating). This will make the aluminum surface receptive to any topcoat starting with primer and is the best insurance against future delaminiation problems or peeling. Again, follow the directions exactly.

After all that's done, spray a coat of Sem (brand name) self etching primer on the tank. A couple thin coats will do. This is available in a rattle can.

Next, do your artwork. The only problem with using artist oils is that they are linseed oil based and it will be difficult to clear over the artwork. You're better off using acrylics or getting online and getting some Createx Auto Air, it's an automotive airbrush color that's water based and can be clear coated with any urethane automotive clear. The other option would be to use One Shot sign painters enamel. That's an air drying oil based outdoor enamel similar to rustoleum but much better. The only problem with One Shot however is that it will be difficult to clear over it with urethane becase it could lift. To avoid this problem you would have to drop a little urethane hardener in your One Shot colors so they will cross link cure and not just polymerize with oxygen. Doing this then gives them a "pot life" which means you only have so much time to work with them before they chemically harden.
One thing nice about one shot is that it doesn't need to be cleared, it's designed to be a final coating for exterior durability.

All the above materials will be available at an autobody supply store. You will not find any of this stuff at Home Depot.

After all your artwork is on I would take it to a body shop and have them hang it in their booth and blast some clear on it.

All this could be done cold and there would be no danger of compromising the integrity of the tank. I have done this many times back when I was putting flame jobs on tanks.

The other thing you might want to do is drain the air out first and remove the valve. Go buy a 3/4" bronze square ended plug and put that in. I drilled a hole sideways through the square nub on the plug so I could run a wire through it to hang it.

It's going to cost way more than the tank is worth but I'm sure that doesn't matter. Whenever we take on these projects it's not about finances, it's about cool,.. right?
 
Make sure the valve you will use is installed on the tank for proper orientation. The starting position of the threads varies on both tanks and valves
 
Dumb question - wouldn't it be better to use a marine clearcoat like DuPont's Imron Clear?
 
ZKY - I'm also in the Auto world lol. But I'm more at the Mechanical end not the body end. So thank for the info. Also I use Water based Oil Paint that uses a synthetic medium. And I've Clear coated over that on other pieces, and they've come out fine. Also the shop I'm with sells the tanks with out a valve and a plug in it already. Although throwing a valve in for the orientation, taking it off and putting the plug in, was part of the plan. Also I'm gonna have a special area for the VIP stickers.
 
Dumb question - wouldn't it be better to use a marine clearcoat like DuPont's Imron Clear?

Imron would be a good choice, but Imron isn't really considered a specific marine clear. Imron originally was designed as an aircraft coating and then became popular in automotive because of it's durability. Paccar (Peterbilt & Kenworth) use Imron Elite on all their trucks out of the factory. The problem is the Elite series is about $400 Gal. for their clear and some of the colors are way more. The 6000 Elite series is the base/clear version, and the 5000 Elite series is the single stage system.

There is another industrial Imron known as the 333 series. It's designed as a one coat system to use on machinery. They have a clearcoat too but it's different from the Elite 6000 series in clarity. It's also good for durability, maybe not as good as Elite, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper. Last time I checked it ran about $150 for a gallon set up including hardener.
You only get 3 quarts of clear in the gallon can. The way it's intended to be used is to pour the quart of hardener into the gallon can and you get 1 gallon of sprayable material. it's for spraying many gallons at a time for large industrial projects. The 333color is the same way. You can use small quantities no problem, just be sure to measure out the 3:1 ratio accurately.

Back to the subject, yes Imron clear would be a great choice to clear a tank but it's not intended for long term water immersion service. For that they have epoxy coatings, but for intermittent immersion (a dive) Imron would work great. So would many of the economy brand urethane clears readily available like Transtar.


Oh boy, now you've got me started!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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