P-valve on Fusion

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Marie13

Great Lakes Mermaid
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Who else has a Fusion with a p-valve? Is the knob outside or under the skin?

Had DRIS install a p-valve (Light Monkey Tinkle valve) on my Fusion Fit suit. The shop insisted the knob had to go UNDER the skin. My suit has a thin, super stretch neoprene outer skin, not the thinner nylon skin. Picked it up last Saturday. Tried it on yesterday (suit halfway on with suspenders) and turning the knob is very difficult. Impossible with dry gloves.

Think I’m going to have to take my suit back and have a hole punched in the skin for the knob to be outside. I’m a little frustrated right now, but at least it’s winter and I can get issues sorted out without it affecting my diving.

I was told the knob has to be UNDER the skin as you don’t know how the skin while move when the suit is inflated. However, I have one buddy who has a Fusion, installed p-valve himself, and put the knob OUTSIDE the skin. No problems at all.
 
Can you post a picture? It sounds like the valve is mounted thru the Trilam but then there is fabric stretched over the exterior knob? Which means your pee is being released thru the exterior cloth of your suit and the knob which acts like a safety on/off valve is now covered.
Your pee isn’t a sauce being strained thru cheesecloth and mittens in the Midwest are warm but they are a pain in the @$$ to open doors.
 
White circled area.

3E2B67E1-97C6-46C3-AD69-C971D9EFEE62.jpeg
 
I installed a light monkey tinkle valve on my fusion bullet. It mounts through the inner core only. Before I put the suit on I reach up from the ankle opening and check that it is fully open. It is always fully open as I the only time I open/close it is during washing.
What valve is it and why do you want to close it?
Others have put a small slit in the outer core but I saw no need.
 
Light Monkey Tinkle valve.
Leave it open. There’s no need to manipulate it open/close because of the duckvalve on the inside of the tinkle valve. I do recommend running a steramine rinse through it every now and again for cleanliness sake. White vinegar works as well. With you not diving salt water, it won’t be too much or often an ordeal (ever), but SeaSkin has the LM Tinkle Valve service kit relatively cheaply. I have one that’s been on the suit for close to 10 years and have not needed further maintenance than flushing it.
 
Leave it open. There’s no need to manipulate it open/close because of the duckvalve on the inside of the tinkle valve. I do recommend running a steramine rinse through it every now and again for cleanliness sake. White vinegar works as well. With you not diving salt water, it would be too much or often an ordeal (ever), but SeaSkin has the LM Tinkle Valve service kit relatively cheaply. I have one that’s been on the suit for close to 10 years and have not needed further maintenance than flushing it.

Well, that’s good to know. Thing came with no instructions and there’s nothing on LM’s website, either.
 
Talked to my buddy who has the knob outside the skin. He said to just put suit on, locate knob, and cut a small slit about 0.25 inches long. Stretch over knob. Said it won’t fray at all. So that’s solved.
 
Lots of fusions up here (this is where the factory is).....never seen one on the inside of the skin......


Just thinking of the comment about not cutting the skin because it moves......what about the exhaust and inflator valves.......doesn’t make sense.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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