I use the E-PL1 with one YS110a and one YS-01. I found that when the internal flash output is very low (e.g. 1/64 flash power), the YS110a does not fire as reliable as the YS01. When the flash output is strong from the build-in flash, it has no problem though. I wonder if that will be the reason why some of your shots don't look like the ys110a had ever fired.
out of sync flashes
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Thanks for the response. But I think I received an answer that makes sense. I received an answer from Cathy Church of the Cathy Church photo in Grand Cayman. Basically what she says is that my new camera is working to fast for my older strobes.I have pasted below her response to my question.
1. Yes--if you see the strobe flash, but the light does not reach your image, it is out of synch. The more advanced the camera, and the faster it is making strobe decisions, the faster the strobe must be able to respond. The big difference between the YS110 and the 110alpha is the shorter millisecond response time.
2. Make sure that all menus are set correctly (for example, you are not in RC mode). But turn the FP mode off first and THEN turn the RC off.
3. Make sure that there are no cracks in the fiber optic cable and that it is secure. And, don't forget to not raise the shutter speed higher than 1/160th. (The camera should not allow this anyway, if you are set properly and not in FP mode.
4. Don't forget--it is not just the large strobe that has to be recycled, but the strobe in the camera as well. Make sure you are not set for automatic strobe exposure, but on fill.
The proof of the pudding is in the eating--if the YS110 is acting erratically and if the YS110alpha works better, then there is the answer. The best, of course, is the UFL2 Olympus strobe. They were made for each other.
I see no advantage to not enjoying TTL. You treat the strobe exposure as though it were on manual (i.e. you close your aperture when you are working closer and want more depth of field and less background ambient light) but in case you are wrong, and there is too much strobe light for the aperture you chose, then the TTL simply shuts the strobe exposure down for you and improves your odds of getting a better photo. TTL is a wonderful tool--not a crutch, but a great back-up to help save us from overexposed strobe light. And we can use all the help we can get when it comes to getting things right underwater!!
1. Yes--if you see the strobe flash, but the light does not reach your image, it is out of synch. The more advanced the camera, and the faster it is making strobe decisions, the faster the strobe must be able to respond. The big difference between the YS110 and the 110alpha is the shorter millisecond response time.
2. Make sure that all menus are set correctly (for example, you are not in RC mode). But turn the FP mode off first and THEN turn the RC off.
3. Make sure that there are no cracks in the fiber optic cable and that it is secure. And, don't forget to not raise the shutter speed higher than 1/160th. (The camera should not allow this anyway, if you are set properly and not in FP mode.
4. Don't forget--it is not just the large strobe that has to be recycled, but the strobe in the camera as well. Make sure you are not set for automatic strobe exposure, but on fill.
The proof of the pudding is in the eating--if the YS110 is acting erratically and if the YS110alpha works better, then there is the answer. The best, of course, is the UFL2 Olympus strobe. They were made for each other.
I see no advantage to not enjoying TTL. You treat the strobe exposure as though it were on manual (i.e. you close your aperture when you are working closer and want more depth of field and less background ambient light) but in case you are wrong, and there is too much strobe light for the aperture you chose, then the TTL simply shuts the strobe exposure down for you and improves your odds of getting a better photo. TTL is a wonderful tool--not a crutch, but a great back-up to help save us from overexposed strobe light. And we can use all the help we can get when it comes to getting things right underwater!!
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Hi I had a problem with TTL on my Olympus DSLR and SnS 110a, I became worried when I read on the SnS site that Olympus DSLR was not supported in ttl.
I have been using my camera an E-520 for 2 years on manual only with on board flash set to 1/64th. I could not get my 110a to TTL and most shots came out badly underexposed or black. I discovered that the camera flash has to be set to full flash to get the information that the TTL can recognise. I now have a SnS 110a that TTL's beautifully. The only downside is I am not sure what impact this will have on battery life.
Check your flash settings on your camera might be the same issue.
I have been using my camera an E-520 for 2 years on manual only with on board flash set to 1/64th. I could not get my 110a to TTL and most shots came out badly underexposed or black. I discovered that the camera flash has to be set to full flash to get the information that the TTL can recognise. I now have a SnS 110a that TTL's beautifully. The only downside is I am not sure what impact this will have on battery life.
Check your flash settings on your camera might be the same issue.
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