OPV/Corrugated Hose base spanner?

[sambolino44]

Not that I plan on doing it any time soon, but when I removed the OPV and corrugated hose from my Torus 35 wing tonight, I noticed some bumps on the inside part that look like they're made for a spanner to hold them if you want to remove the, what do you call it...grommet? Is there a tool for that? Not that anybody but you guys actually needs something like this, but you may be able to sell it. Just trying to help.

Also, those things (wings) NEVER get dry all the way, no matter what I do. It's not like they ever get moldy or anything, but I wonder if you've thought of making an adapter so I can hook up my wing to my Peet's boot dryer, or something like that.

So, if you need any more help thinking up things nobody ever needs, just let me know.

 

[cool_hardware52]

Not that I plan on doing it any time soon, but when I removed the OPV and corrugated hose from my Torus 35 wing tonight, I noticed some bumps on the inside part that look like they're made for a spanner to hold them if you want to remove the, what do you call it...grommet? Is there a tool for that? Not that anybody but you guys actually needs something like this, but you may be able to sell it. Just trying to help.

Also, those things (wings) NEVER get dry all the way, no matter what I do. It's not like they ever get moldy or anything, but I wonder if you've thought of making an adapter so I can hook up my wing to my Peet's boot dryer, or something like that.

So, if you need any more help thinking up things nobody ever needs, just let me know.

Sam,

We do not recommend removing the OPV or corrugated hose. It is possible to loosen the actual fittings that penetrate the wing and bladder. Incorrect assembly of these parts can cause troubles.

There is not need to completely dry the inside of your wing. If you are concerned about mold add a dash of mouth wash and swish it around.

Removing fittings, blowing air or heated air through your wing is far more likely cause grief than prevent it....


Tobin

 

[sambolino44]

OK, I'll stop doing it. Rinsing it out with water will probably get any sand or whatever out of the OPV. But no matter what you say (!) I'll still probably take them off maybe once a year or so, just to check things out. That's just the kind of guy I am. What if it comes loose, what then? I'm pretty sure I could rig something up to hold the tabs on the inside, but I bet you have one in your shop, custom-fit, with spring-loaded fingers to expand and back up the inside and finger-groove knobulation...ooh, probably hard anodized aluminum, yeah, that's it! C'mon, man! Give up the goods!

Oh, yeah, on a completely different note, I chose the Torus wing because I liked the idea of the air bubble being able to migrate around the back end, but it never seems to actually happen in the real world. It seems like, even though the material is open through both sides at the bottom, there's a fold, or a crease, or whatever, that effectively blocks the two sides off from each other. I don't know how you could prevent this, because it seems to be just the nature of the way the fabric lies, but have you noticed this, and have you thought about maybe changing the cut of the material, or something to make it so that the bubble can go from one side to the other with no restrictions? This probably falls into my usual zone: solutions to problems that exist only in my mind. It ain't like I've ever had a problem diving, like I noticed being kwonked to one side because the bubble couldn't move. Maybe it's just that I want to justify choosing a Torus over an LCD wing.

Anyway, thanks for taking time to respond to my silly ruminations, and thanks for caring enough to put genuine quality in your products.

 

[cool_hardware52]

OK, I'll stop doing it. Rinsing it out with water will probably get any sand or whatever out of the OPV. But no matter what you say (!) I'll still probably take them off maybe once a year or so, just to check things out. That's just the kind of guy I am. What if it comes loose, what then? I'm pretty sure I could rig something up to hold the tabs on the inside, but I bet you have one in your shop, custom-fit, with spring-loaded fingers to expand and back up the inside and finger-groove knobulation...ooh, probably hard anodized aluminum, yeah, that's it! C'mon, man! Give up the goods!

Oh, yeah, on a completely different note, I chose the Torus wing because I liked the idea of the air bubble being able to migrate around the back end, but it never seems to actually happen in the real world. It seems like, even though the material is open through both sides at the bottom, there's a fold, or a crease, or whatever, that effectively blocks the two sides off from each other. I don't know how you could prevent this, because it seems to be just the nature of the way the fabric lies, but have you noticed this, and have you thought about maybe changing the cut of the material, or something to make it so that the bubble can go from one side to the other with no restrictions? This probably falls into my usual zone: solutions to problems that exist only in my mind. It ain't like I've ever had a problem diving, like I noticed being kwonked to one side because the bubble couldn't move. Maybe it's just that I want to justify choosing a Torus over an LCD wing.

Anyway, thanks for taking time to respond to my silly ruminations, and thanks for caring enough to put genuine quality in your products.

If you try to shift gas through the lower arc when the wing is loose, i.e. no tank mounted the lower arc will "z" fold on itself.

In the water it's possible, but requires the diver be distinctly heads down, butt up.

Gas goes to the high point in a wing, and to make the part of the wing that's trapped under the lower end of the cylinder the high point you need to be heads down, butt up.

Tobin