Opinions on Inline Regulator Shutoff Valves for SideMount Diving?

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SlugLife

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I just don't log dives
I recently acquired a pair of shut-off valves, which go between the LP-hose and 2nd stage. At first it seemed like a great idea; I could tune both regulators on the brink of free-flow, but shut off whatever I'm not using or in case of free-flow.

I'm not attached to either side of the "argument" but I am second-guessing using these. The valves cost me almost nothing, so no loss either way.
  • As everyone always points out, it's another potential failure-point, even if very small. (Not a major deal with redundant air)
  • I haven't really needed one in my 1.5 years of SideMount, although it might occasionally be nice to have.
  • It may be a slight hazard, if I try switching regulators and don't realize it's closed.
  • It's a potential hazard if a dive-buddy (I normally solo) goes for the regulator, and can't breathe from it.
Anyway, for normal recreational SideMount, would you have shut-off valves installed, if you had some spares sitting around? Specifically, just SM, and not technical-diving, deco-bottles, etc. However, I may put one on my pony-bottle-regs.
 
Get off here go do some diving Slugmug and some of your wearying theoreticals may be answered
 
I haven't gotten around to sidemount yet, but BM doubles, independent and manifolded.

What 2nd stages?

If you have a cracking adjustment knob, just de-tune them and swap the dive/surface switch when removing. Reverse when plugging-in. Should be good enough, unless there is a problem - then shutdown/feather tank valves as required. Seems sidemount makes that pretty easy.
 
Thanks for the feedback, I was strongly leaning towards "no" but this effectively confirms my feeling. I was installing them earlier today, and then quickly asking "why." I guess these can go in my "spare hardware" box.

Obviously, I'll still keep reading, just in case someone does have a good use-case or argument for them.

What 2nd stages?
S600. My regulator setups at the moment are 2x ScubaPro MK25 1st stages, 2x SP S600 2nd stages, and 2x transmitters. There are "backup" SPGs, but they're mostly used as pre-dive (non-computer) tank pressure checkers. If I bring my pony-bottle, that's a SP MK10 & G250.

Closing the tank or feathering the valve is definitely an option as needed, and very easy with SM. The few times I get a free-flow, I can usually respond quickly flipping the reg and barely lose any air.
 
I recently acquired a pair of shut-off valves, which go between the LP-hose and 2nd stage. At first it seemed like a great idea; I could tune both regulators on the brink of free-flow, but shut off whatever I'm not using or in case of free-flow.

I'm not attached to either side of the "argument" but I am second-guessing using these. The valves cost me almost nothing, so no loss either way.
  • As everyone always points out, it's another potential failure-point, even if very small. (Not a major deal with redundant air)
  • I haven't really needed one in my 1.5 years of SideMount, although it might occasionally be nice to have.
  • It may be a slight hazard, if I try switching regulators and don't realize it's closed.
  • It's a potential hazard if a dive-buddy (I normally solo) goes for the regulator, and can't breathe from it.
Anyway, for normal recreational SideMount, would you have shut-off valves installed, if you had some spares sitting around? Specifically, just SM, and not technical-diving, deco-bottles, etc. However, I may put one on my pony-bottle-regs.
You figured it out.
 
Holy crap! Happy-diver actually made sense! 🤣😁
Awesomely probably one of the more active divers on the board
 
If you have a cracking adjustment knob, just de-tune them

This. If my second stage is free flowing like from flow, I will use the cracking knob to detune them.

That way if you switch in a hurry you are still getting gas from it, instead of a whole lot of nothing.

Also then detune them with your inline adjuster, you don't need them on the brink of free flow.

Except my oxygen reg it burps but I am too lazy to fix it. I just run the cracking pressure knob up after I do my test. And then run it down after I switch to it. And back up again when I put it away.
 

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