Opinion of OMS tanks

[nyresq]

got a set of OMS 85s doubled up. Love the balance of the long slim cylinders instead of the 8" fat 98s. had them for 3 seasons now with no rust. but I also pull the boots after every day of diving and rinse them down and leave them off untill the tanks and boots are dry. I loosened up the bands at the end of last season and slid them up to look underneath. no rust, no pits no problems. take care of them and thay should last a couple of hydros at minimum. I also have a set of E7-100s doubled up. I got them for a steal, otherwise I would have bought the 120s.

 

[PonyBottle]

Dear fellow divers,

I'd also like to know if a 98 cf steel tank would be too heavy for use with a 36 lb Explorer wing and diving without a dry suit.

I use a 121 with a 36lb halcyon pioneer without a dry suit, without any problems.

 

[AzAtty]

(it seems like the DIR bunch doesn't like OMS too much, even though OMS just hired two former employees from Halcyon and GUE to help make their line more DIR-compatible).

The primary issue with the OMS tanks and DIR is that the galvanization process on OMS tanks is a cold spray (OMS tanks are really Fabers, btw). DIR advocates the use of "hot dipped" galvanized tanks. As far as I know, Pressed Steel ("PST") is the only steel tank manufacturer who uses a hot dip process. Therefore, the DIR folk tend to use PST cylinders.

OMS did make some noise last year about hot dipping their tanks (shortly after they hired away the Halcyon people), but it has not materialized.

That said, I have a set of PST LP 104's. The new E-series is looking nice, and the last time I checked, you come out pretty close to even on the prices between the OMS and PST E's.

 

[mth71]

I'm 5'12", so pretty close to what some of you guys are, and if you're saying that the 98's are too short, then I'll take that into consideration. Initially, it seems that a shorter tank would be easier to wear (I don't know exactly what size tanks I used in my OW class, so size-wise, I'm just making certain assumptions; I suppose I could ask the LDS owner or my instructor(s).)

By the way, one of the reasons I want to get my own tank is so I can use my DIN valve without an adapter. Of course, I'd have to attach another adapter to get the think filled, but I'd rather do that than have the bulky DIN to yoke adapter on while diving. Another reason is so that I can be assured of using the same tank for each and every dive, and thus can get my trim down to where it needs to be.

You guys (I didn't notice any female replies...we need more females in the sport, don't you think?) gave me plenty to think about. While I'm far from making a decision, it seems that the way to go at this point is PST. So thanks for all the great replies. No matter what brand I go with (for this purchase or any other equipment), this board has always proven very helpful. Thanks guys!

Mark

 

[mth71]

Of course, I'd have to attach another adapter to get the think filled, but I'd rather do that than have the bulky DIN to yoke adapter on while diving.
Mark

Boy, I really need to proofread before I hit the Submit button. :redface:

 

[rjchandler]

I'm (I don't know exactly what size tanks I used in my OW class, so size-wise, I'm just making certain assumptions; I suppose I could ask the LDS owner or my instructor(s).)

. Of course, I'd have to attach another adapter to get the think filled, but I'd rather do that than have the bulky DIN to yoke adapter on while diving.
Mark

Betcha it was an 80 :dazzler1:

Most shops can fill DIN valved tanks. If you end buying a valve for your tank you can get valves with an insert thazt comes with. OMS makes em and AByss sells a version too.

 

[Falconer]

You can get into trouble with too much gas because you can be tempted to overstay your welcome on the bottom. It might be helpful to think about where you intend to dive in the more immediate future. You'll find that an AL80 will give you a lot of time at rec depths - particularly as your breathing settles down with experience.

I agree with this. 80 cf seems to be just enough to keep
you in safe limits with bottom time, even if you are not
watching bottom time closely chances are your air supply
will dictate the end of your dive at just about the time
you should be coming up anyway due to nitro or O2 load.
This is not always true but havin a 95 or 120 you better
be watchin your bottom time a hell of a lot closer. I saw
a guy diving air with double 95's on a 110 ft wreck and I thought to myself this is gonna be one oxygen toxic dude
if he plans on using even 1/2 of that supply !

 

[bgbill]

I have several PST HP 120's, a PST LP 100, several OMS 121's and 125's, a Faber LP 120.

I dive in saltwater only, do not take exceptionally good care of the exterior of my tanks.

I do not have any serious problems with rust on the Faber or the OMS tanks, I recently sprayed some cold galvanizing on a few of the older OMS tanks and they hold up very well.

I have some rust on 3 of the PST HP120's, but nothing to be concerned about.

Out of the tanks listed above I prefer the OMS, because when filled to 3500, I have a ton of gas in a single cylinder.

 

[mth71]

You can get into trouble with too much gas because you can be tempted to overstay your welcome on the bottom.

I agree with this. 80 cf seems to be just enough to keep
you in safe limits with bottom time, even if you are not
watching bottom time closely chances are your air supply
will dictate the end of your dive at just about the time
you should be coming up anyway due to nitro or O2 load.
This is not always true but havin a 95 or 120 you better
be watchin your bottom time a hell of a lot closer. I saw
a guy diving air with double 95's on a 110 ft wreck and I thought to myself this is gonna be one oxygen toxic dude
if he plans on using even 1/2 of that supply !

Regardless of my tank size, I will be watching my bottom time very closely. As a new diver, yes, I'm fascinated with the underwater world and would love to stay down there a long time, but I also don't have any bad habits to break, so I make sure to keep an eye on my time. I play things conservatively, which is why I won't use a computer until I am completely proficient with dive tables and The Wheel (even then, if I ever do get one, I'll still plan my dive and dive my plan by tables). From the outset, I want to Do It Right. So while my first few dozens of dives may not be long enough to necessitate a larger tank, I'll be just as aware of my gas situation and BT no matter what size tank I use. Nevertheless, thank you for reminding me of the importance of not giving into the temptation of wearing out my welcome on the ocean floor.

 

[gjmmotors]

You can get into trouble with too much gas because you can be tempted to overstay your welcome on the bottom. It might be helpful to think about where you intend to dive in the more immediate future. You'll find that an AL80 will give you a lot of time at rec depths - particularly as your breathing settles down with experience.

I agree with this. 80 cf seems to be just enough to keep
you in safe limits with bottom time, even if you are not
watching bottom time closely chances are your air supply
will dictate the end of your dive at just about the time
you should be coming up anyway due to nitro or O2 load.
This is not always true but havin a 95 or 120 you better
be watchin your bottom time a hell of a lot closer. I saw
a guy diving air with double 95's on a 110 ft wreck and I thought to myself this is gonna be one oxygen toxic dude
if he plans on using even 1/2 of that supply !

Not true.

Ox tox wouldnt be an issue. He may overstay the ndl limits.
o2 load is minimal, noaa ndl at 110 on AIR is 20 minutes.
so assuming one is breathing air at 110 fsw his po2 is 0.9 thus giving him 360 minutes of oxygen time limit. he uses 20 minutes. No where near the limits for oxygen.
-gmount