One Week: Cozumel vs Chinchorro

[turkeyphant]

Solo traveller with about a week to dedicate to diving on the Yucutan peninsula.

I have read a whole bunch of old threads on here and heard great things from locals about both Cozumel and Chinchorro.

Due to the distance form Mahahual, I'm told it's much better to do a night or two on Chinchorro but it's proving very difficult to find a dive shop that will cater for groups less than 4-6 divers or can hook me up with others heading that way anyway. I'm not super flexible on time as I only have about 3 weeks left in the country.

Can anyone recommend anything in particular or give me some tips?

What are the major pros and cons of each? Or should I split my time between the two?

 

[horn34]

Cozumel is a lot more colorful. Banco Chinchorro is cool, especially diving with the friendly baby nurse sharks.

• You can't stay "on" Banco Chinchorro. You stay in Mahahual.
• There are only a couple of dive shops there licensed to do Chinchorro tours. I recommend Amigos del Mar.
• You could also go to Xcalak (about 40 minutes from Mahahual) for some great diving with XTC.
• Cozumel is cheaper, easier to get to and, to me, more fun to dive. I like Aldora (steel 120 tanks, long dives)
• Mahahual - fun place for a day or 2, but crowded with horrible cruise ship people most of the time. No large stores or ATMs. A few good bars and restaurants.
• Xcalak - tiny fishing village, nice if you want to get away from it all. Nothing to do there but fish or dive. No large stores or ATMs. A couple of good restaurants (that have bars).
• Cozumel - big, lots to do, see, eat, drink, etc. Tons of good bars/restaurants/dive shops. Cruise ship people are easily avoidable.

I would split my time 75/25 between Cozumel and Costa Maya (Mahahual/Xcalak). Definitely look at a rental car. You can get a compact VW from America Car rental for less than $150/week (choose pesos as your currency, not US dollars).

If you want more info, just ask, I dive all these spots regularly. I'll be back down there in 3 weeks!

ALDORA DIVERS

Banco Chinchorro Diving & Snorkeling | Amigos del Mar Mahahual

XTC Dive Center

Cancun Car Rental | Rent a car in Cancun - America Car Rental

 

[Trailboss123]

One week and Solo-- not even a debate! Cozumel for sure! Easier to get to and from, less expensive (if that's a concern), better diving, better food, better everything!

 

[turkeyphant]

One week and Solo-- not even a debate! Cozumel for sure! Easier to get to and from, less expensive (if that's a concern), better diving, better food, better everything!

I would split my time 75/25 between Cozumel and Costa Maya (Mahahual/Xcalak). Definitely look at a rental car. You can get a compact VW from America Car rental for less than $150/week (choose pesos as your currency, not US dollars).

Thanks for the replies so far. I'm on a hostel budget though I guess I could spring for a hire car if it makes things that much easier even with no-one to share the cost with. I guess a concern is travelling all the way down to Mahahual and then finding the weather is too bad to dive before I have to leave again...

I was told by a small one-man dive shop in Mérida that Chinchorro is really something special. And I plan to be a few days in Bacalar so, if time is flexible, it might not be too bad of a detour...

Based upon the advice so far though, I'll definitely spend some time in Cozumel. I have heard that it's possible to avoid staying on the island and just popping over on dive boats though. Is this something you'd actually recommend? My travel vibe is much more 2nd class buses, $10 hostels and 3 MXN market tacos than cruise ships and fancy restaurants (although if there restaurants are good value as well as being just good I'm happy to pay $50+ for a decent meal).

I've been in touch with XTC but I think I might need a bit more infrastructure. Any more specific advice about Cozumel is very welcome as someone new to diving and, while I have decent Spanish and have travelled Mexico for a few months, I have little experience of this part of the country.

 

[horn34]

Thanks for the replies so far. I'm on a hostel budget though I guess I could spring for a hire car if it makes things that much easier even with no-one to share the cost with. I guess a concern is travelling all the way down to Mahahual and then finding the weather is too bad to dive before I have to leave again...

If you're on a hostel budget, you can definitely take buses into Mahahual/Xcalak, they just have very limited schedules. I think the Caribe bus into Xcalak only runs once a day, like very early in the morning. If you're in Bacalar and the weather is bad, 90% chance it's gonna be bad in Xcalak/Mahahual too. And vice-versa. Check windy.com for wind speeds. Anything in the mornings over 10 knots most likely means waves, chop and low visibility. 15 and above may mean port closure and no diving. Waves and chop are really only good for diving La Poza from XTC to see tarpon schools, bad for anywhere else.

I was told by a small one-man dive shop in Mérida that Chinchorro is really something special. And I plan to be a few days in Bacalar so, if time is flexible, it might not be too bad of a detour...

Chinchorro is cool, I've been several times but I don't really feel the need to go anymore, unless I do one of the croc trips from XTC. I like the reefs in Cozumel better.

Based upon the advice so far though, I'll definitely spend some time in Cozumel. I have heard that it's possible to avoid staying on the island and just popping over on dive boats though. Is this something you'd actually recommend? My travel vibe is much more 2nd class buses, $10 hostels and 3 MXN market tacos than cruise ships and fancy restaurants (although if there restaurants are good value as well as being just good I'm happy to pay $50+ for a decent meal).

I wouldn't stay in Playa. While it's a cool town, you have to take a round trip ferry ($20) every day. The earliest you can be in Cozumel is about 7:50, so you have to find a dive shop willing to work with you, since most leave at 7:30. There are definitely cheap hostels and airbnbs in Cozumel, pretty easy to find online. As are cheap tacos (away from the tourist traps).

Mahahual has some cheap hostels too. No hostels in Xcalak, but you can get a nice little private room/bath at Gallo's for $20 a night. It's a 5 minute walk to XTC, and since most of the dive master trainees stay near there, you'll probably be walking to the dive shop every morning with them.

I've been in touch with XTC but I think I might need a bit more infrastructure. Any more specific advice about Cozumel is very welcome as someone new to diving and, while I have decent Spanish and have travelled Mexico for a few months, I have little experience of this part of the country.

A 2 tank dive in Cozumel is going to run anywhere from $75-100, depending on the dive shop. Many dive shops are central and easy to hop on the boat with. Aldora will pick up at their pier downtown and Tres Pelicanos will give you a ride to the marina if you're at their shop early. There are several other dive shops that are central but I don't know their polices. There is a Cozumel subforum here you should search and then ask specific questions.

 

[drrich2]

Hi:

I can only speak to the Cozumel portion of your dilemma, other than to say with just a week to commit to it, you're apt to lose some diving relocating between points. If you want to try 'something besides Cozumel,' judging from forum postings a more typical plan is base in Cozumel, and commit one day to ferry over to Playa del Carmen and go to a couple of cenote dives.

In case it's helpful:
1.) My research notes on planning a Cozumel trip.
2.) My trip report staying at Casa Mexicana and diving with Tres Pelicanos (highly recommend both).

Suites Bahia is a bit cheaper than Casa Mexicana and you can still eat the breakfast buffet at the latter.

In my reading through forum threads about Cozumel dive op.s, one dive op. name has consistently over time received good reviews for a good overall dive experience coupled with good low budget pricing and, IIRC, free gear rental included - that op. is Dive With Martin. I haven't dove with them, but if I were looking to plan a rock bottom price Cozumel trip but with a reputable op. and not taking my own gear...I'd start by putting together a package with them. See what they can do.

Undercurrent had a Feb. 2018 article part of which discussed a Chinchorro Banks trip. I think you can read it without being a paid subscriber. Since Xcalak and croc. experiences got mentioned, here's a Nov. 2015 article I think you can also read for free.

Richard.

 

[drrich2]

P.S.: Don't know how much you've traveled of rented cars. At least from a U.S. perspective, traveling to the Caribbean, often cars included in package deals don't include the CDW insurance coverage one would want. That can be a fairly expensive nasty surprise when picking up a rental. Some people say their credit card will cover the insurance, but historically there have been strings attached (e.g.: have to use the card to pay, may not cover some vehicle types such as off road, might have to be worked out after you get home whereas if there's a wreck you might have to pay up before you're allowed to leave the country). If you stay in San Miguel, Cozumel, at least in the area I did, you likely won't need a vehicle, and that provides some savings. San Miguel is lauded for a variety of good food options that aren't over-priced. Some Caribbean locations tend to have pricey food.

 

[turkeyphant]

I wouldn't stay in Playa. While it's a cool town, you have to take a round trip ferry ($20) every day. The earliest you can be in Cozumel is about 7:50, so you have to find a dive shop willing to work with you, since most leave at 7:30.

Thanks for another very helpful and detailed response. With regard to this, I was told by a diveshop based in Playa that they have fast boats and will take divers to Cozumel reefs directly from Playa negating the need to take the ferry. I don't know where the best diving is to be able to say whether this is practical but I guess this is another question for the Cozumel forum.

I can only speak to the Cozumel portion of your dilemma, other than to say with just a week to commit to it, you're apt to lose some diving relocating between points

Thanks - will have a read through your links. But with regard to a week - that's the total amount of time I want to spend diving (albeit a maximum). I'm not including travel time in this! I'll be in the country a total of about ten weeks; I don't mind fitting diving around other things.

P.S.: Don't know how much you've traveled of rented cars. At least from a U.S. perspective, traveling to the Caribbean, often cars included in package deals don't include the CDW insurance coverage one would want.

Have rented cars internationally a bunch of times. The CDW is usually a pretty standard thing and AFAIK, can be dealt with trivially in a bunch of ways. Either way, I think it's unlikely I'll be going that route but cheers for the heads up...

 

[Trailboss123]

You don't want to dive Cozumel from Playa del Carmen.
Can you? Yes. Do you want to? No!
Go over to Cozumel and base yourself there and enjoy some of the best diving, food and bars the Caribbean has to offer.

If on a tight budget, check into this option. They are right downtown in the heart of all of the great restaurants and nightlife scene- You can get your hostel accommodations and diving for the price of "diving only" with anyone else. I have not stayed there or been diving with them, but I did check them out on behalf of others, who like yourself, are on a tighter budget. Reviews have been positive:
2tank Dive Hostel Cozumel – PADI 5 star Dive Resort

 

[horn34]

Thanks for another very helpful and detailed response. With regard to this, I was told by a diveshop based in Playa that they have fast boats and will take divers to Cozumel reefs directly from Playa negating the need to take the ferry. I don't know where the best diving is to be able to say whether this is practical but I guess this is another question for the Cozumel forum.

I would pass on taking a boat from Playa to the Cozumel reefs. You will be sitting in a small panga boat for close to an hour just to get to the reefs, then another hour back when you finish the dive. Unless you really, really need to stay in Playa and don't mind wasting 2 hours sitting in an uncomfortable boat every day, Cozumel is where you want to stay. I would use a couple of those non-diving vacation days for Playa.