O2 clean reg

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

dc4bs:
Hehe.

Apeks also has(had?) a version of the ATX40 that even comes from the factory O2 clean and sealed up in a bag to keep it that way.

They still have:

http://www.simplyscuba.com/cgi-bin-...&viewAsList=&getPage=2&numPages=2&isProduct=1

In fact, it seems the price for o2 clean or non-o2 clean is the same. On the atx40, it's around £15 to get the factory o2 clean version I think.

It may cost a little more in postage, but you get 17.5% off if you buy in the states because you don't have to pay VAT.
 
DA Aquamaster:
At this point the o-rings in the annual service kits are edpm so there is nothing different except that you should replace all the O-rings when you do the O2 cleaning rather than just the dynamic o-rings included in the annual service kit. Plus if it's O2 clean you get to put the new nitrox sticker on the yoke knob although that does not actually come in the nitrox kit - you have to order it separately.

That's what I thought.... figures :D
 
TechBlue:
Craig,

As BJD says since Aqualung took over Apeks no longer sells an O2 service reg or kit here in the US, as a matter of fact I clearly states on the service kits that if you intend to use the regulator above 40% you have to clean the service kit yourself. Any LDS should give you your serviced reg back with the old parts they replaced, I have heard of shops stating the "we only do this so you can't try to use the parts yourself" line but I think that is a load of bollocks. I think we've actually gone over a similar thread where we discussed the fact that the manufacturer doesn't actually prohibit the LDS from selling parts-but that's a whole different story:D

Right, that's what I said. The parts are clearly labled that they are O2 compatible but will need to be O2 cleaned before using them for an O2 clean regulator rebuild.

This is simply and obviously a cost saving measure on their part because ther is only one kit for ALL apeks first stages and another kit for ALL apeks 2nd stages. You'll prety much always end up with at least a few extra O-rigs and such you don't need. Just keep track of what you took out and replace those (verifying this with the manual of course so you don't miss any of those tiny, hidden ones :wink: )

Why should they spend the extra to send everyone O2 clean parts when most users will simply slap them into non-O2 regs? If you're O2 cleaning a reg anyway, it only takes an extra few minutes to clean them yourself so what's the big deal?
 
ok somebody mentioned they clean all regs as a matter of course before the sell them. so i called the LDS that i bought some of my regs from and they said that they are o2 clean. they are dive rite rg 2000 just for the record. my next question is how hard is it to do yourself. somebody mentioned earlier that if you do it yourself you know who to blame and i agree with this. now, keeping in mind that i have never taken a first stage apart, is this something that i should try by myself? i don't claim to be a mechanical genius but i can follow direction.

thanks for your time.
 
Deal Me In:
ok somebody mentioned they clean all regs as a matter of course before the sell them. so i called the LDS that i bought some of my regs from and they said that they are o2 clean. they are dive rite rg 2000 just for the record. my next question is how hard is it to do yourself. somebody mentioned earlier that if you do it yourself you know who to blame and i agree with this. now, keeping in mind that i have never taken a first stage apart, is this something that i should try by myself? i don't claim to be a mechanical genius but i can follow direction.

thanks for your time.
Eventually you will more than likely end up servicing and cleaning your own regs, the setup costs can get fairly expensive, on average it takes about an hour to to strip clean and rebuild a reg when you do it all the time, it will take quite a bit longer when you only do your own regs once a year. I think Craig mentioned that it took him most of a Saturday to do 4 regs, it's your time so it doesn't cost you anything but these are all things for you to consider, your first step should be to look at Airspeed Press, thet have a regulator repair book and also Pete Wolfinger's book regulator savvy, you can also by all the tools you will need from Pete as he is the guy that makes all the specialty tools for all the different manufacturers www.scubatools.com
 
Ok this is just want i found out doing a quick search for the thing that would be need to clean my regs. Now know that im just looking into it and dont need any flaming becouse i have not started to DIY reg cleaning. The tool that i would need for my Apeks is 22.50, book to learn how to DIR my reg right the first time is 100.00, Lube is about 40.00 for 2 oz, ultrasonic cleaner is 350.00 but this might be a tax wright off for my wifes dental practic... have to take with a tax agiant. I think this is all that would be need beside the repair kits, but i have not been able to find the price for my apeks. So all in all it is 512.50 +the cost of the kit.

If i am missing any thing please send me a PM or list it here so i can do some more seaching on the net. Thank all and happy diving!
 
Vance's book is $50, the tools vary. 2oz is more Christolube than you'll use in a lifetime for a single person, in all probability - a 1/2oz tin is more than enough for years. The ultrasonic is the "real cost" item, but your price is high - look around some more :D

The real "problem child" is seats - you need to find a way to get those, or all the rest is a bunch of handwaving for nothing.

If you're willing to buy generic O-rings in the proper duros, sizes and materials you can cut your overhaul costs WAY down in terms of parts. Seats do not need to ALWAYS be changed, especially if you take good care of your gear.
 
So how do you go about getting seats? I would asume that you dont walk up to your LDS that like to charge you 85$ for just one first stage and one sec stage, and ask then for just a seat for your reg! Im am positive that i would get flamed harder there then i would here for saying that im looking into doing my own reg serving... who knows thy might stop filling my tanks for asking them to sell me just the seat.
Ok were do you go for all the O-rings needs?
 
ReeseTD:
Im am positive that i would get flamed harder there then i would here for saying that im looking into doing my own reg serving... who knows thy might stop filling my tanks for asking them to sell me just the seat.

It depends on the shop you use obviously. I've not actually tried to ask my shop for specific parts; but I've been in there before with a first stage and my bent spanner wrench and a clamp on it asking if I could borrow his wrench to get some counter force to get the damn cap off. Not only did he help me out, he happened to be closed at the time and doing yard work...

It all goes into building a relationship. They know I'll be back, they know I recommend them, and they know that if they can't get me what I want I'll go somewhere else with no hard feelings and I'll be back to give them first dibs on the next thing I'm searching for.
 
www.air-oil.com for the O-rings.

Seats vary. As Spectre pointed out, shops CAN sell them to you. Oh, some will claim they can't, but its a lie. Its not prohibited in their dealer agreements - at least not in any I've seen (and I've seen a lot!)

There are other sources as well; they do pop up from time to time in various places... :D
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

Back
Top Bottom