Niihau season is starting for divers visiting Kauai!

[AquamanKauai]

Aloha,

I get numerous PM's from divers each year regarding the trips to Niihau (off the island of Kauai) and thought I'd get ahead of the curve and start a quick thread....

Each year in the summer months Niihau trips are available to those divers interested in full day trips to the very best of diving off of Kauai. Arguably the best diving in Hawaii - it is certainly among the best diving that the state has to offer.

I made my first trip this week and as usual it was off the charts as usual. This crossing is around 2hrs each way to the "Forbidden Island" off the west coast of Kauai. The diversity off the island is incredible although the main draw for many is the chance to dive with the critically endangered Hawaiian monk seal. Sharks like galapagos, grey, whitetip, silky and sandbars are seen with regularity as well - with an occasional hammerhead or larger shark. Rays (manta and eagle) are very common as well on these trips both in the water and viewed from the surface. Spinner dolphins are expected in large numbers on these trips as well - often in the 100's.

This past week I had 3 large mantas, 80+ pound trevally, and a monk seal on my first dive alone. Our second and third dives included numerous close encounters with the beautiful sandbar and grey sharks that have become more or less residents on a couple of the sights. Large horse-eyed jacks, amber jacks, and countless schooling butterfly fish also were present.

We wait anxiously for the season to open each year and if our first trip was any indication of what this season may bring....it's gonna be awesome.

As always, I am happy to help with anyone who is making the Kauai trip this summer with plans to venture out to Niihau or stay locally on the south shore of the island for diving.

Happy dive planning and I hope that I get to help/meet some of you this summer.

Best of island wishes
A

 

[suave15]

Thanks much for this post. It has piqued my interest enough to want to plan a trip to Kauai this year. I have been reading up about it and it seems like the south shore is a good place to stay if am interested in the Niihau islands. Could you confirm how long the season typically lasts and if you think this year is going to be any different? I've done about 25-30 dives which include lava tubes, wrecks and night dives. Is there anything I should be worried about, regarding diving the Niihau islands?

 

[crizo]

I'll be there May 4th. Can you provide some additional detail on this trip? Do you work for a dive shop on Kauai? Thanks.

 

[whaleboy]

Thanks for the encouraging report AquamanKauai. I will be will with Bubbles Below on April 25th for the Ni'ihau adventure.
Although I'm sure the other dives ops on the island have naturalists/DM's on their dives, BB seems to emphasize marine ecology/biology,
so I'm looking forward to a enriching educational experience.

 

[AquamanKauai]

Have a great run over there. Bubbles Below will take great care of you I am sure. Have a fantastic time with the monk seals. Be sure to add a trip report to help out others inquiring about the trip!

Aloha
A

---------- Post added April 23rd, 2013 at 04:14 PM ----------

Ok....

Back above water and I can answer some more Niihau questions!

The Niihau season has started and usually runs through August for sure. Sept trips are possible. The season is based around the northern swells so when the first big swells hit - the season ends. When the last of the north swells hit - season opens. The primary reason is that most of the diving at "Niihau" is in fact off the northern island/crater "Lehua." North swells make that area challenging to dive when present so most operators avoid it until calmer conditions prevail. Early indications have me believing that this should be a great season as the monk seals have returned early (not always the case). We have also had numerous manta rays each trip which is encouraging and also not always the case. The shark activity is good - with sandbar, galapagos, gray, whitetip, silky, and a single hammerhead thus far. For the next 2 weeks there will likely be whales (Humpbacks) over there as well. After that we will still have numerous encounters with dolphins/whales during the deep water crossing in the channel going to and from Niihau.

Niihau is not always all that challenging in terms of diving. In fact, an experienced divemaster out there would tell you that the majority of the time the diving is only as challenging as the DM makes it. Often the big stuff comes to you - and there's no need to go deep to see all that the diving out there has to offer.

Sure, ripping currents are prevalent at times at certain sites - but "most often" are completely avoidable to divers not interested in those types of dives. They can be thrilling for the REALLY experienced divers - but can also be a little overwhelming dives that have divers in over there heads and left with shortened bottom times and unnecessary exertion.

You can find an experienced naturalist (in my humble opinion) at any of the shops you choose. But feel free - in fact I encourage tourist divers to research and ask there chosen shop about your DM and there experience. Niihau usually has the very best of divemasters with longevity in the islands (Kauai/Niihau in particular) working these trips - BUT NOT ALWAYS! It has bummed me out for years hearing about people having divemasters who didnt know about endemic life or have in depth knowledge about Niihau diving. IF you're spending $300-$400 to dive Niihau (and it's worth it with the right guide) you should get an experienced DM/crew.

I think all three companies will be running as of May 1 if I am not mistaken. I do in fact work at Seasport divers as someone inquired. I think all three companies (with the right crew) run fantastic trips. It is a long day and 2-3 hours of bottom time is common over the 3 dives. Snorkeling with dolphins and other critters is common as well. Keep mask and fins ready so when your DM jumps in the water at a moments notice - you can be right behind him/her.

The big big big issue with Niihau is the crossings. This is a long day that can often end with a rugged return. People are not often made aware of this to the level they should be (again - in my humble opinion). Because it is an open ocean / deep channel crossing it is hard to predict what may be in store. Changes in wind direction and currents can't often be predicted and can make the experience note worthy. Obviously I'm being kind there...... but you should know that it is at times flat and mellow returning - but the norm is that it is bouncy and 2 hours of it. At other times it can be jarring and 2 hours plus. I have worked on all the boats that go to Niihau over the years and the experience is vastly different on the smaller boats than a large one. There are pros and cons to each IMO. While I work for Seasport divers - while I was a tourist I preferred to go with the smaller 6 passenger boats to avoid the 12-13 divers on what is now my boat. Even though its a 50ft vessel I preferred the small intimate 6 diver experienced. Largely this decision was because of a history of California diving where really rough seas never bothered me and I had experienced them numerous times. At the same time I did go on two trips back then that took over 2 1/2 hours to return and had mulitple sea sick divers the whole way.

Without carrying on - to set yourself up for the right boat and company ....

Think about your sea legs and what your experience has been.
Do you feel that you need cover from the sun and elements all the time?
Do you get seasick? Big boats don't prevent this! But "can" help.
Research the company and DM's
Research the boat that is crossing that day
AND!!!! Look at the weather forecast!!! Days with lighter winds and little swell will always be best.

These are just some hints and suggestion about Niihau diving.

George Thompson is the owner of Fathom Five (Poipu) and the best person to obtain info from there.

Bubbles Below has several guides going out there from Port Allen (and I believe will have a shop there this summer).

I'm just a lil ole divemaster from SeaSport divers but I will be happy to answer any questions you may have. Feel free to use personal messages if you like. I will try to re-visit other posts like this one to answer questions as well.

Best of ocean wishes
A

 

[whaleboy]

Ni'ihau trip was thumbed by BB, due to, it happens to me 90% of the time, high swells. They claimed it was to be 12', but it's
Thursday morning here in beautiful Po'ipu with lots of birds singing and the NWS is still showing 6' seas in the channel and less around the islands.
But I know what 6 foot seas are like and its no picnic, especially when it appears that there are 3 major swells cross-crossing the islands. (Adds
character to the surface) Im still looking for a realitime sight for significant swell conditions.
So, the alternative was given to do a 2 tank dive this morning, which I passed and I'm on the Sunday spot for Ni'ihau. the forecast today is 4'
and less. (Problem with that, now that I think about it is I leave Monday)

Another thing is I brought my 7mm and 3mm shorty. things do not really dry out on a humid island where it rains a lot. I will have to consider renting
a wetsuit, which is something I should have considered before I left the mainland. Will the suit be dry so it will pack and not be too heavy?
Will my wing and booties dry out?

I'm gonna pop into a shop thats just down the street and see if I can salvage my Kauai vacation, I came thousands of miles on what may be the
trip of a lifetime, I don't want to go home with a bad feeling of being let down by conditions and dive ops that just want to get u in and get u out.
Where is the Aloha?

Yesterday, I jumped into the water here at Po'ipu with my scuba mask-snorkel boots and OMS slipstreams. I was immediately greeted by large Humuhumu-Eleele a bunch of butterflys and several other species all interested in checking out my "strange" fins.

 

[fisheater]

They must have remembered my slipstreams from two years ago. ;-)

The Ni'ihau trip is worth the wait.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[AquamanKauai]

Surfnewsnetwork.com is a good forecasting site that is pretty user friendly and easy to understand for those diving anywhere in Hawaii - though I mention it particularly for Niihau.

An added suggestion for scheduling Niihau trips...Tilt the odds in your favor by booking well in advance AND booking multiple days. It's a win win with no risk. All companies have a cancellation policy of 24-48hrs. By having multiple trips booked for the week - if one cancels at least you have a spot on the next one secure! If your trip goes and you love it (which you will) you can either keep your next booking or just cancel it. It's a really nice safety net to have. Finding an opening last minute on these trips is very difficult to do at times and missing out on Niihau is sure to be a bummer.

Hope all those interested in Niihau this summer are helped in a tiny bit by these posts. Seasport, Fathom Five and Bubbles Below are all running trips starting this upcoming week as I understand.

A

 

[whaleboy]

Just an update, my last chance for Ni'ihau was cancelled due to bad conditions in the channel. Alternate is Mana Crack off the Na Pali Coast,
which is great, since I get to see Na Pali from a boat between dives. I will post if time permits after the dive. I'm thinking the Mana is just gonna be
awesome!

 

[whaleboy]

Ni'ihau - Lehua Crater. 3 tank dive with Bubbles Below
On Sunday April 28th 2013, I arrived at Port Allen and being a little early, I went down to the docks to see if I could spot the B.B. boat, did not see any dive boat in any of the slip's.
Later,they arrived via truck and trailer towing the 36 foot; "Kaimanu" Radon (made in Kauai) with twin Yamaha Diesel's, launched it at the ramp then docked it for loading up. This was confusing to a spoiled mainlander. So, if your early and no one is around, wait by the dock near the restrooms. After someone shows up, you can drop your gear, then find parking. If its an early trip you should find parking close by. If not then they have a lot that is up the hill, by the bubbles below sign. (You will see it on your way down to the dock.)
I figured out that this trip is about diving for advanced divers, not a pampered poodle plunge, which is just the way I like it!
Overall, the dive boat is no frill's, bungee cord tank straps and no head. The DM, an instructor named Mike was very friendly and outgoing, the skipper Nate Clay was brave and sure. Nate stuck me as a fisherman who skippered a boat like most people drive a car, its a no brainer. One of those rare individuals who could read
the ocean. (So how do you go, when they is no head? You have to jump in when the boat is stopped and hang onto the ladder! Hope no big fish around!)
But dont let the boat discourage you, both Mike and Nate worked hard to make sure we would get a positive dive experience. They helped me into my gear and changed my tank, 2 times. We set up our tanks on the dock to do equipment checks for the first tank, then they loaded them into the boat.
Although we were told that Mana Crack off the Napi Coastline would be the destination the day before (and the Thursday trip was cancelled) The owner; Linda Marsh, came by to greet us and said that it was up to Nate to decide since the conditions were right on the edge (4-6 sw swell with 15 kt winds). So Nate pilot the boat out into the deep blue and following his instincts steered us toward
Ni'ihau.
The channel crossing was a rough with occasional bow slaps with ensueing water
splash over the bow, drenching unsuspecting divers sitting on the engine cover.
One diver seemed to enjoy this for a solid 2 hours. I was in and out of it, but the water is a cool 76 degrees and the humidity is high enough that you dont get
the skin drying out effect.It was much rougher going back, but in an adventurous way. If you lack sea legs then 1/2 to 1 Bonine should help and do not eat anything or drink coffee. If your an old salt, disregard.
DM Mike held a very detailed dive briefing, one of the most thourough I have
heard yet.
3 dives, Vertical Awareness, Keyhole Drift and Pyramid Drift.
1.Second time u/w with a GoPro
2.First time u/w with a little Bronine in my system (1/2 pill)
3.First time off a boat in seawater. Especially after a 2 hour rough
open ocean crossing.
Vertical Awareness: After checking with comfort levels of those who need a line
to descend or were comfortable without one, the DM said who ever needs to use the line great, if not n/p. Meet us at the bottom. I was amaized by the clarity and visibility, then the hundreds of butterfly fish. I was overwhelmed. On this dive
I hit new lows, I reached 121 fsw, and manuvered around 100-110 for a few minutes
before rising to 85-95 fsw. I did not narc, but I was mezmorized by the singing
humpbacks just out of view. Everyone else heard them, and yes, whales sing, crabs
don't.
On this dive, I observed a manta ray, 5 sharks - greys and whitetip reefs along with all the little colorful fishes. The structure of the vertical cliff and ledges was something out of a science fiction novel, I did my first pass through without a snag. I also lost my Princeton 400 lumen LED dive light. Several people saw it decend into the depths of davey jones locker.
Being in the water with humpback whales singing is a experience I will never forget. You feel it go through
your bones and reverb in your chest. Although we didnt see them, they were out there!
Keyhole Drift was fun, a lot of structure and a little current, pushing people up, down sideways.
Pyramid drift was a fast drift and a lot of fun, I was able to float off the bottom with the current and get some interesting video.
Although Hawaii diving doesn't seem to have the richness of life we Californians take for granted in our
kelp beds, it was great to experience the warmth, clarity and uniqueness that make this place very memorable indeed.
What I hear they usual see, manta's, Monk Seal's, and spinner dolphins, we did not see. I was really bummed
about that, I was really hoping to jump in with the dolphins, I would have taken that over the dives.
But like our waters, you can't predict the marine life you will encounter.
I would go back to Bubbles Below, but next time I want to try Seasport Divers or Fathom Five for comparison.
I do plan to return next year.
Ill post some photos when I get more time...