Night dives.. How many lumens?

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Nikole

Contributor
Messages
173
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Location
United States
# of dives
25 - 49
What's a good amount of lumens for a primary dive light? I was looking at some on sale with 850 lumens, wide angle, and charges by USB.

But I don't really know how bright 850 lumens is... unless in jump into a pool at night and shine the light to get an idea. I plan on taking advanced open water soon and am just looking at advanced open water equipment, since, for my shop, not sure about yours, we'll need our own. And most places don't rent lights.
 
First, I'd really reconsider the idea of a flood light. During night diving, it's very common to use your light for signaling your buddy, and a wide diffuse beam is really the worst choice for that. You'll want a decently tight spot.

On the lumens, my primary light is a SOLA 1200. In spot mode, it delivers 500 lumens on high setting. I usually run it on medium or low, i.e. 250 or 125 lumen at night. High is for murky water.
 
Check out a dive gear express DGX600 and 800. Very bright. I bought one of each for our last trip to Cozumel and was very impressed. Easily had two of the brighter lights on the dive. Only problem is they are only good for about an hour so you WILL need a backup. I believe there are some better batteries out there that may last longer. They are also the twist on type but seem very well made.

The 800 (2 batteries)is definately brighter than the 600 (1 battery) on a full charge, but the 600 is bright enough for anything I do on a night dive. 800 may carry a little farther.

Lots of people have been happy with the Chinese eBay dive lights, but I think their lumen output is more of a creative suggestion than an actual measurement. From the DGX website:

Lumens, Lux and Burn Time - Caveat Emptor
Various LED dive light suppliers use different methods of determining light output, plus expressing them in different forms of measurement. What matters is the visible light from the LED that bounces off the reflector and passes through the lens. The quality of the reflector and lens, as well as the actual amount of power delivered by the battery have a major affect on the amount of light that reaches the target. Dive lights would be better described by the system lumens (sometimes called out-the-front or OTF lumens), which is the amount of visible light emitted by the entire system of battery, bulb, reflector and lens. Describing any LED dive light in terms of the radiant lumens specification of the entire light output for a raw LED module (including IR and UV wavelengths we can't see) at maximum power under laboratory conditions can be very misleading.

In our opinion, using lux measured at the target distance (typically 2 meters), and not just initially but across the entire burn time, is the best way to describe the brightness of dive lights. The difference is that the lux takes into account the area over which the light beam is spread. The lux is the visible light measured at the target distance, not the bulb. A light of 1000 lumens, concentrated into an area of one square meter, is said to illuminate that square meter with an brightness of 1,000 lux. However, the same 1000 lumens, spread out over ten square meters, produces a much lower value of only 100 lux.

There is a test standard (ANSI/NEMA FL-1, approved in 2009) for measuring flashlight lumen output, burn time and impact resistance. Sadly, we are not aware of a single dive light manufacturer who has elected to rate their lights using the FL-1 standard. Until they do, we must rely upon our supplier internally published specifications for our descriptions, but we suggest you take all of them with a grain of salt. Like the fuel economy ratings on automobiles, your results for light output and burn times may vary considerably from the questionable values being published by the dive light manufacturers.

We also also have a cheaper Princeton Tec AA powered light which is an acceptable backup and one of their large pistol grip lights that is just bulky. So far they have been reliable, but no where near the quality of the DGX lights. For $50 and $65, you could spend more, but they are great lights.

Good luck, safe travels,
Jay
 
Depends on where you are diving and the conditions as well as what you are doing while diving. I got advice to check out DRIS (dive right in scuba). Check out their 1000 lumen light. It can come with a goodman handle and serve as your primary and is only $75. It's extremely bright and if you ever need a brighter one in the future which depending on what you are doing you may not, it serves as a very good backup light as well so money won't be wasted.

For the average recreational diver in good visibility warm water, 1000 lumens is probably as bright as you need. Beware though that not all lights are created equal and a 1000 lumen of one light may not be as bright as 1000 lumen as another since a lot of other factors are taken into account.
 
I agree with "it depends". For clear water Caribbean diving I am one of those guys that HATES people with bright spot lights. I prefer a red flood light. It allows me to keep a little night vision, gives me a broad field of view, and lets me get closer to critters without burning their eyeballs out. I do keep a second, 150 lumen light, for signaling. It always seems that the person with the brightest light spends the most time shining it in other peoples eyes.
 
depends upon where you night dive, but getting an adjustable light will give you an more flexible solution.

our primary light is a spot with 3 levels, the 1000 setting is too bright for continuous use, but is handy for sweeping out into the distance every know and then. we use the low setting (250?). our backups are flood with 2 settings. i dislike the flood since it lights up way more than i am looking at.

this is for caribbean dives sith lots of vidibility.
 
If I had to choose, I'd rather have a spot than a flood. An adjustable light will of course be the best (flexibility is good), but I see little use for a flood beam unless it's for lighting photos or Gopro videos. For any other use, I see no point in anything but a spot.
 
If I had to choose, I'd rather have a spot than a flood. An adjustable light will of course be the best (flexibility is good), but I see little use for a flood beam unless it's for lighting photos or Gopro videos. For any other use, I see no point in anything but a spot.

I'm a cold water diver so I see it like you do but in warm clear water people wonder why we don't have floods instead of those irritating long range spot lights.
 
I'd strongly suggest looking at the Big Blue VTL3100 (I have the previous, 2800 version) which has both the flood and spot beam. Tremendous performance in terms of brightness and battery life for the price. They eclipse the Sola 1200's (which I also have, as I bought those before).
 
I also have one each of the DGX 600 and DGX 800 and they are more than sufficient for what I do. I get over an hour of runtime from the DGX800, and carry the DGX600 as a backup.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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