Any suggestions on gear you have had luck with would be appreciated.
Any given gear category is thread-worthy in its own right. I'll try to hit on some highlights.
1.) Mask - fit is very personal. More expensive is not necessarily better. Some people like low volume masks, but just about anything on my face leaks at times, and low volume fills faster so not to my taste. I don't recommend buying a very expensive mask just assuming it must be better.
2.) Dive Computer - many people like the option to download dives to their personal computer, sometimes even smart phone, and many of us like air integrated as that can record our start and stop tank pressures and calculate our average gas usage rate corrected for depth. If you like playing with such things, you'll want that.
If you aspire to get into technical diving, such as very deep diving, cave diving, rebreather diving, etc..., though only a small % of the recreational diving public seems to do that (or so is my impression, take with a grain of salt), you might want a computer capable of technical diving.
Shearwater is a brand much-loved on ScubaBoard.
For computers, you can get console, puck or watch-style, and swappable single use vs. built-in rechargeable battery-powered, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages.
3.) Fins - not so expensive that getting a different pair later is likely a major concern, but if you intend to get into penetration diving (e.g.: wrecks, caves) or otherwise value tight maneuverability, you might want paddle fins not split fins. Some people are prone to be foot heavy, so lighter fins are a plus (e.g.: Deep6 Eddy, OMS Slipstream, ScubaPro Go Sport IIRC?).
Oh, you'll most likely want open-heel fins, not full foot fins. With full foot, you'll likely wear without scuba boots, and for shore diving people often walk in and out wearing boots but not fins. With open-heel, many people like spring straps due to durability.
4.) Regulator - you'll likely want something an area dive shop does routine maintenance on. Unless you are wealthy and into the 'finer things' (e.g.: Rolex, Porsche), I suggest you steer clear of those $1,500+ regulators that are a little lighter via more titanium parts (hello, Atomic Aquatics!). I like my Atomic Aquatics B2, but a couple of times on dive trips I've found it hard to get serviced where I think a ScubaPro wouldn't probably been easier. If you are a technical guy and want to service your own gear, you may want to read about the Deep6 regulator offerings. ScubaPro has a rep. for good stuff but at a premium price.
Oh, I doubt you'll be doing much really cold water diving, or in environments where contamination is a higher than usual concern, but if you expect to do so, then you might want to consider what's involved in 'environmental sealing' of that regulator. I haven't dealt with this.
5.) BCD. Likely you've used a standard jacket BCD by now. Very 'off the rack, grab and go,' not much drama to it. At the other end of the spectrum is the back plate/wing, a highly customizable setup where you have choices to make about the 'plate' that's like the main frame, the inflatable 'wing' that gives lift, the 'webbing' (nylon strap harness), tank attachment and so forth. They don't tend to have built-in pockets (aside from integrated weight pockets), but there are ways to add such.
Speaking to general stereotypes, a jacket BCD tends to hold your face higher from the water at the surface and more comfortably straight up at cost of making horizontal trim during your dive a bit tougher. A BP/W is modular, configurable, can be a hassle to set up, requires understanding a making choices, sits a little lower at the surface and can pitch your forward if you over-inflate the wing at the surface, enables easier horizontal trim at depth, and so it's not nearly so 'off the rack, grab and go.' For example, someone shopping for a wing needs to ask how much lift he needs, and may want to make sure he gets one with a bladder that's not a 'horse shoe shape' (so air is less likely to get trapped in one part).
But if you get into technical diving, BP/W is likely what you'll use (e.g.: customizability comes in handy, like if you dive with 2 tanks). I doubt you've heard of GUE yet, but for their Fundamentals course they have specific gear requirements, so in the unlikely event you plan to go that route, find out what they demand.
Oh, I recommend getting a weight-integrated system. If you get one and decide you prefer using a weight belt, no problem, but if you don't get one and decide you don't like weight belts...
6.) For diving any large body of water where getting away from the boat is a risk, you need a finger spool and an SMB (surface marker buoy). You'll want one that can deployed from depth (not just inflated at the surface) and that can relieve excess pressure. Dive Gear Express
at the bottom of this page has some useful info. In a nutshell, your little head at the surface is hard to see from a boat; a 4 to 6 foot right inflated tube can save your life. I use a spool & SMB.
Something less universally endorsed but that could probably have saved some lives is a signaling device such as a Nautilus Lifeline or PLB (Personal Locator Buoy, in a water-proof container). When you're lost at sea, drifting helplessly, desperately dehydrated while seawater messes up your skin and sunburn roasts exposed areas, one of these could make the difference. I don't dive one, but I'd like you to be aware of the option.
7.) Cutting Tool - you don't need a big knife to fight sharks with. A smaller, compact tool in case you get snared in fishing line, etc..., is a good idea. A Trilobyte is a fine choice, and I have one on a strap across my chest. I dislike the rapid rusting up of typical dive knives (and I don't quickly rinse and dry them after dives), so for me, the 'buy once, cry once' rust-proof options are preferable - either titanium or H1-steel (e.g.: Spyderco brand has some H1 options) knives. Some people like EMT sheers, or go cheap and take a cheap steak knife, take off the point, and use as disposables.
8.) For dive trips with a lot of repeat diving, lycra socks can prevent rubbing blisters on your feet.
9.) I use over-the-counter swimmer's ear drops about ever 2 or 3 dives (I don't count drops; I just shoot some in and waller around my ears) to prevent infection. Wait till you get infected and it'll BURN.
10.) If there's any credible chance you'll shore dive in places with iron shore (e.g.: Bonaire), get dive boots with at least a medium thick sole so you can walk around rough, even jagged surfaces weighted down in dive gear without much foot pain. SeaSoft Sunrays are an option.
11.) Thermal protection needs vary widely. Women and skinny people seem to get colder easier. Wetsuit fit is individual. I like extra-stretchy neoprene (like Henderson's Thermprene). With my big head, Henderson's extra stretchy AquaLock hood (their largest size) was needed, and it still pulls on my lower jaw - by comparison, the same size NeoSport hood feels like my head's in a compactor.
Does that sound like you need to settle in at your computer with a bottle of Tylenol for headache while you research? Well, there's more - underwater camera, dive light, what to take on a liveaboard (where they say if it's not on the boat, it's not on the boat), etc... But if you read up on this stuff, it'll get you started.
A common recommendation on SB is rent awhile before you buy. A few exceptions - mask (fit very individual and leakage is aggravating), computer (it's nice if you're familiar with it), dive boots and fins (if you are an unusual fit, like my size 15 feet) and wetsuit (if you're hard to fit). You don't need to rush into buying a regulator or BCD.