New Genesis 2.0
- Thread starter Jon Nellis
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OP
Jon Nellis
Contributor
Remove those metal strips ASAP. You bent the ends over and if they scratch through the mask layer on the circuit board, you will have one hell of a short circuit. No bueno!
Leave the tape over the connectors and try just putting one big flat sheet over that face. The copper traces on the circuit boards are not near the edge, so it will be fine. You can tape to the face of the boards, just don't place metal on the face of the boards.
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@Jon Nellis
Sorry, in my haste I forgot to photograph the final product. I applied the transparent tape over the center connectors. The two grey strips to the side of the transparent tape are strips of double sided tape. So the final installation, of which I do not have a photograph, is a sheet of Mu Metal (the length of the grey strips and just a little narrower than the width of the warp-core). The two grey strips of double sided tape hold the sheet of Mu Metal over the battery pack. The sheet of Mu Metal looks like a dull baking sheet, very similar to the dull side of aluminum foil.
The sheet of Mu Metal that I purchased has one side completely covered with self adhesive film/tape. I did not unmask this self adhesive tape. Connnection to the warp core is strictly double side tape, applied to the battery pack, to the "double sided" film on the back of the Mu Metal sheet.
Let me know if this is still no bueno and should be removed immediately.
O.
Sorry, in my haste I forgot to photograph the final product. I applied the transparent tape over the center connectors. The two grey strips to the side of the transparent tape are strips of double sided tape. So the final installation, of which I do not have a photograph, is a sheet of Mu Metal (the length of the grey strips and just a little narrower than the width of the warp-core). The two grey strips of double sided tape hold the sheet of Mu Metal over the battery pack. The sheet of Mu Metal looks like a dull baking sheet, very similar to the dull side of aluminum foil.
The sheet of Mu Metal that I purchased has one side completely covered with self adhesive film/tape. I did not unmask this self adhesive tape. Connnection to the warp core is strictly double side tape, applied to the battery pack, to the "double sided" film on the back of the Mu Metal sheet.
Let me know if this is still no bueno and should be removed immediately.
O.
OP
Jon Nellis
Contributor
Got it, that will work nicely. The grey strips looked like they could have been metal. I have some VHB tape about the same gray color, so that makes sense.
To test, place the DPV on something to level it front to back, hold the compass about a foot above it and see if the needle turns when lowering it down to the DPV. Turn the DPV to a new direction about 60 degrees left or right and repeat until you've made a full circle. If no or minimal deflection when lowering he compass, you'll be good to go.
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To test, place the DPV on something to level it front to back, hold the compass about a foot above it and see if the needle turns when lowering it down to the DPV. Turn the DPV to a new direction about 60 degrees left or right and repeat until you've made a full circle. If no or minimal deflection when lowering he compass, you'll be good to go.
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where did you get the mu metal from? and let us know how it works out please
Hello All:
Took the G2.1 yesterday to 170ft yesterday. The compass reading on the nose matched the compass reading on my left arm so I'm confident that the Mu metal shields the compass mounted on my DPV effectively. I purchased the sheet on Ebay from the following seller.
Ultraperm 80 Metal Shielding Sheet 8" x 5.3" MuMetal Mu Metal Sheet Audio Shield | eBay
Need to work on the trim and the buoyancy of the scooter. The compass does indeed push the scooter nose down. Also, the positive boyancy of the DPV became a hinderance during deco. It's just safer to have the DPV horizontal at your side, instead of floating above you. I was surprised that the handle did not rotate to the 3 oclock position. Instead it went from 11 to 1 oclock. I will have to play with the position of the counter weight. Also I did not clock the position of the handle correctly. It needs to be at 9 oclock for it to rotate to TDC, when I release the handle, assuming the handle rotates to 3 oclock.
I'll have a chance to dive with the DPV in a few weeks. Unfortunately, I don't have a tub large enough to test out its trim & buoyancy. Will report once I test out some new configurations.
O.
Took the G2.1 yesterday to 170ft yesterday. The compass reading on the nose matched the compass reading on my left arm so I'm confident that the Mu metal shields the compass mounted on my DPV effectively. I purchased the sheet on Ebay from the following seller.
Ultraperm 80 Metal Shielding Sheet 8" x 5.3" MuMetal Mu Metal Sheet Audio Shield | eBay
Need to work on the trim and the buoyancy of the scooter. The compass does indeed push the scooter nose down. Also, the positive boyancy of the DPV became a hinderance during deco. It's just safer to have the DPV horizontal at your side, instead of floating above you. I was surprised that the handle did not rotate to the 3 oclock position. Instead it went from 11 to 1 oclock. I will have to play with the position of the counter weight. Also I did not clock the position of the handle correctly. It needs to be at 9 oclock for it to rotate to TDC, when I release the handle, assuming the handle rotates to 3 oclock.
I'll have a chance to dive with the DPV in a few weeks. Unfortunately, I don't have a tub large enough to test out its trim & buoyancy. Will report once I test out some new configurations.
O.
OP
Jon Nellis
Contributor
On the compass shielding front...
I ordered up a sheet of .006" thick Hy Mu 80 (it came with adhesive backing) for testing on the 2.2, which is worst case, since current through the layer jumper wires right beneath the compass is the main offender for deviation. Without the shielding in place, I could get the compass (Seattle Sports - Sea Rover) to deviate up to 160 degrees at full power (about 15A). With a 5.75"wide x 9.25"long sheet stuck to the inside top of the tube, the deviation dropped to about 15 degrees at full power and no noticeable deviation at normal power levels. There was a bit of deviation from the sheet itself, typically less than 10 degrees. Testing was done inside a room with steel table bases and other magnetic materials which did not help the results, but I would dive it that way recreationally.
I haven't tested the 2.1, but my gut feeling is that placing the sheet on the top of the battery assembly, would be better than on the inside of the tube wall, since magnetic strength is relative to the distance squared. A slightly thicker sheet might be enough to get rid of all power related deviation on the 2.2, or just put on two layers, as you can cut two pieces out of the sheet linked above. Getting the sheet stuck inside the tube, towards the nose, so that it did not interfere with the battery assembly sliding in and out was a bit tricky, but not impossible.
Cheers,
Jon
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I ordered up a sheet of .006" thick Hy Mu 80 (it came with adhesive backing) for testing on the 2.2, which is worst case, since current through the layer jumper wires right beneath the compass is the main offender for deviation. Without the shielding in place, I could get the compass (Seattle Sports - Sea Rover) to deviate up to 160 degrees at full power (about 15A). With a 5.75"wide x 9.25"long sheet stuck to the inside top of the tube, the deviation dropped to about 15 degrees at full power and no noticeable deviation at normal power levels. There was a bit of deviation from the sheet itself, typically less than 10 degrees. Testing was done inside a room with steel table bases and other magnetic materials which did not help the results, but I would dive it that way recreationally.
I haven't tested the 2.1, but my gut feeling is that placing the sheet on the top of the battery assembly, would be better than on the inside of the tube wall, since magnetic strength is relative to the distance squared. A slightly thicker sheet might be enough to get rid of all power related deviation on the 2.2, or just put on two layers, as you can cut two pieces out of the sheet linked above. Getting the sheet stuck inside the tube, towards the nose, so that it did not interfere with the battery assembly sliding in and out was a bit tricky, but not impossible.
Cheers,
Jon
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Hessian
Registered
Hi Jon, the old Genesis had a sealed battery, right?
Does the new style battery mean in case of a flood the entire warp core unit will have to be replaced?
Does the new style battery mean in case of a flood the entire warp core unit will have to be replaced?
OP
Jon Nellis
Contributor
It depends on how much water gets in. A little bit of water is no big deal and some people put a sham-wow inside just in case. A total flood in fresh water, the electronics and cabling would probably need replacement, but the hardware should still be good. Total flood in seawater, would be total replacement, but that is the case with most DPV batteries. Water will wick down the wires of "sealed" batteries and reach the electronics pretty quick, unless there is a solid bulkhead penetration to the sealed battery pack. In that case, only the wires would need to be replaced, unless it is deep, in which case, no one's sealed battery is pressure tolerant to the same depth rating as the DPV.
The Genesis design philosophy is different than other DPVs. Instead of designing it to survive an occasional flood, I designed it to better prevent a flood in the first place. Most DPV flooding is due to either main body seal contamination/failure or shaft seal failure. Since the Genesis has no shaft seals, that problem is avoided, and since you don't have to repeatedly open and close it every time you need to recharge, the likelihood of that problem is greatly reduced. The best thing you can do is carefully clean and grease the seals, close it up and dive the crap out of it until you actually NEED to open it up again. I know people that haven't opened their Genesis in years.
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Alas the freshwater to salt weighting change means I can't really so this - although sometimes I just dive the dang thing without changing the weight
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