New Genesis 2.0

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The weight pouches only go in one way. The battery only goes in one way to connect to the white cable, unless you hosed up that cable.
Yea I thought of that but perplexed why his is rolling over.
Mine is handle up but its the bigger battery minus some cells in a 1st gen tube

The nose weight is definitely offset on one side
 
rjack has some extra weight in his, since it is a retrofit.

The Genesis 1.0 had its battery weight offset to account for torque, but the new battery is symmetrical and we got rid of the torque. The handle is negatively buoyant, so it rolls the DPV over. The approximately 1 lb of lead needed for seawater could be moved to the bottom of the DPV tube, instead of the back wall to help counteract the roll.
 
This is tempting me to sell my new Piranha P2 and get one of these. Would you be able to ship to Asia with an empty warp core? Also interested in a pack for the Sierra. Will you sell those internationally without the cells for ease of shipping?
 
This is tempting me to sell my new Piranha P2 and get one of these. Would you be able to ship to Asia with an empty warp core? Also interested in a pack for the Sierra. Will you sell those internationally without the cells for ease of shipping?

We can ship it to internationally with a FULL warp core, just as easily as empty. Our batteries can ship with the cells installed since they are less then 100Wh per layer. You just disconnect the jumpers between the layers when shipping or flying them and reconnect at the destination. We could ship it empty, but It will not save you anything on cost, since we would need to test it at the factory with a full set of cells before shipping and then spend extra time disassembling the warp core to remove them and then reassembling for shipping. Any discount you get on cells will probably not offset the extra disassembly and reassembly cost, not to mention you will also need to disassemble and reassemble with the cells you purchase and in the rare chance that you get any bad cells, you will need to trouble shoot that, so probably not worth your time.

It will be a while before we start making retrofit warp cores for other DPV brands. Our current BMS does not support the lower cell counts.

Cheers,
Jon
 
"While off the trigger, the DPV's handle rotated to the 6 oclock position. Did not really like this, since this does drag on the sand, when you're close to the bottom. Need to figure a method of preventing this. I would like for the handle to sit at the 3 o'clock position, when it comes to a stop. Would greatly appreciate any help in adjusting the DPV so that it behave sin that manner. That was my only quirk."

That's the only thing I wanted to change on my Genesis 2.1. So here's what I did. You can use it as a starting point for your own. After I finished my scooter is neutrally buoyant and it is perfectly trim with the handle upright. when I let go to do something (with the trigger locked and speed off) the DPV stays exactly in position. No rolling, no nose sinking, no tail sinking, handle upright.

This is in fresh water with no weights inside. I added .7# on the bottom near the back of barrel just in front of the separation joint. That made the handle not roll. Then on top I made a buoy of 1-1/2" sch 40 PVC pipe with 2 caps. The distance (after trying 5 different lengths) between the caps after gluing was 3-3/4". I placed that just behind my front mounted Sea Rover Deck compass. The PVC can be slide up or back to get the trim exact, or if you want the handle to rotate to the 3:00 position, then just move the weight and the PVC to get that orientation when you let go of the DPV. My Genesis 2.1 is now perfect for me!
Picture below.
 
Genesis scooter 2.jpg
Genesis scooter 2.jpg Here's my picture on the DPV. After I use it for a bit. I'll my it more permanent with SS hose clamps. Woops, didn't know the picture would be so big.
 
Hi GBesaley:

I removed the velcro weight pouch from the motor. Instead, I afixed a 1.0LB lead sinker to the hull, directly opposite of the handle. The handle now sits at 11 O'clock when I release the DPV. I can get it to 12 o'clock if I play around with the position of the 1.0LB counterweight.

The DPV is now ever so slightly positively buoyant and slllowwwlllyy floats upward when released. Adding an additional large bolt snap makes the DPV sit at 15-20 degrees. I'm certain that a littless than 1/4lb in the right position will trim out the DPV and put the DPV at Neutral. I have also removed the fabric noze handle. I prefer stiffer two inch webbing.

How did you eliminate the EMF interference to your compass? It throws my compass by 70-100 degrees, hence I just use the compass on my wrist.

O.
 
How did you eliminate the EMF interference to your compass? It throws my compass by 70-100 degrees, hence I just use the compass on my wrist.

Is your weight setup for saltwater?

I haven't used the new compass underwater yet. However, as it sits on by bench, there is minimal deflection with the speed controller at 3:00. At full power it only deflects 5 degrees. On my last Genesis dive I used my compass setup from my Aquaprop. It's a Brunton 58 compass that's not made anymore. I made it ride about 4 inches above the Aquaprop. I needed that height to clear the magnetic field. There's no deflection on the Aquaprop. However, on the Genesis underwater it had about 5 degrees of deflection at 3:00 and 10-15 degrees at full power. That same setup has no movement on the Genesis while on the bench. Strange that water would make a difference. That makes me think I'll have to raise the Sea Rover compass also. I'll know after the next dive in two days.
 
I get no measureable deflection on my genesis 2.1 with the searover, it's pretty far forward
 
This Searover compass maybe the compass to use with the Genesis DPVs. I use a Suunto SK8 compass in a wrist mount, which is much smaller. Perhaps the smaller size makes the SK8 more susceptible to the EMF interference. I've posisitioned it everywhere along the length of the body with the same results. I have a dive buddy that just uses his wrist compass as well and he doesn't have any issues navigating. It will be a small learning curve for me. Don't laugh but I use to have one of these compasses made for kayaks. Worked extremely well on my SS Viper, but I just did not like... the look of the DPV with big wart on the hull (I deserve a flogging for this)... Likewise, the digital compass of my Perdix did not fare well with the EMF and had similar deviation.

My G2.1 is seutp for salt water. I will spend a dive to figure out how much weight I need for trim but I may leave the DPV slightly positive. I wonder if the DPV had a longer body, if it would make trimming it any easier? Mind you, I have an accounting degree so don't place much faith in my ideas regarding engineering... This is how I've set up my G2.1 I slip the key through the bolt snap of my front leash. I've added a very thin strip of electrical tape to the key's rubber band. It makes it easier to remove. I've replaced the original front strap that was very thin with 2 inch webbing. The one that I use is fairly soft but I will replace with a stiffer webbing.

20200701_205015.jpg 20200701_205048.jpg
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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