New dSLR kit recommendation

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webrix

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It's quite a few years that I take u/w pictures with an old, compact Canon G12 and I'd like to move up a bit to a more powerful setup.

I need to get everything: camera, lens, housing + ports, strobes, anything else?

What setup would you recommend to move from compact to dSLR?
 
Depends on budget. If you want to keep it low look at cannon SL 1 or SL 2 in a ikelite housing. Ikelite may have a package . I prefer ikelite strobes as a 160 or 161. This housing comes with a dome port . Can add 10mm lens and other accessories. Will start to add up.
 
First off, there are three basic options.

Go to the web sites of Backscatter, Reef Photo and Video and or Bluewater Photo. You can look at costs and options. Also, if possible go to one of these places so you can get some hands on experience.

First, mirrorless cameras. These offer the same format as a DSLR. They are usually less expensive. And the systems are far smaller than a DSLR. The smaller size makes them easier to get macro shots in most situations. The smaller size means that the system can fit in a much smaller piece of luggage. The drawback is you do have some shutter lag but not so much. Also, you can take shots one handed. A DSLR is pretty much a two handed operation.

Second, crop sensor DSLR. Smaller format. Different lens choices. Less expense. But a loss of full potential.

Third, full frame DSLR. This is the biggest potential. Also pretty expensive. I shoot a Nikon D800 and it is a wonderful camera. Canon makes a superb camera also. As far as a full system of quality lenses and cameras for DSLR, it is Canon or Nikon.

Housings. You can get an acrylic housing... don’t. Sure the housing is cheaper but with camera, ports, lenses, extenders, strobes etc, the savings is not that much.

I use a Nauticam housing. It is robust and has superbly set up controls that are easy to use and are pretty intuitive. There are other excellent housings.

Lenses. Depends on your style. I find a 24-85 zoom works pretty well for mid sized fish to turtles, divers and so on. A 16-35 zoom is good for wide angle, divers, schools of fish, and big fish. A 60 macro focuses lightning fast and is good for close ups and medium to small subjects. A 100 mm macro is good for pure macro and small skittish fish. The problem with DSLRs is once you have your lens choice, you can get frustrated: you have a 100 macro and a Goliath grouper taunts you or you have a 16-35 and you find a wonderful sea horse.

Strobes. You need two of them for best results.

Now my system weighs as much as all my other luggage. The camera and lenses go in my back pack for under the sea. I have a small roller bag for housing, strobes and ports. It goes in the bin. I am like a Sherpa in the airport.

I call my system Boat Anchor 2.0. On land it is heavy and unwieldy. In the water, I have floats and it is pretty near neutral buoyancy. It is easy to handle.

Good luck on your search.
 
Thank you very much for the exhaustive reply PatW.

One of the reason why I want to move to DSLR is how slow the shutter speed is in my current camera.

So maybe I should stay between crop sensor and full frame. How much of a difference there is?

For the crop sensor option, what camera, housing and strobes would you recommend in the entry-level range?
 
Once you commit to a certain housing manufacturer there's no going back once you start collecting the various ports for the macro and wide angle lenses that you use.
 
A crop sensor has about half the sensing area that a full frame has and maybe less. Photo sites will explain the differences. You also have a different group of lenses to use. If you want to do snap shots, stuff on the web and Facebook and smaller stuff like 8 by 10 and 16 by 20, a crop sensor is fine. But if you want larger photos like 24 by 30 and 32 by 40, the full frame is better. Full frames are also more expensive.

As for shutter lag, my dive buddy uses a mirrorless system and it has very little shutter lag. So I would strongly suggest you examine that option. You can go to a decent photo shop and pick one up and see how much lag there is.

Even DSLRs can, with certain lenses take awhile to get focus. I find that my 100 mm macro searches for focus on auto and frequently locks onto something I don’t want. I only use manual focus for it. But once you achieve focus, there is no lag. The only lag is my reaction time. Of course, if a damsel fish is playing peek a boo, it can be hard to get the shot. I started with a G10 and certain subjects like butterfly fish were virtually impossible. They are easy with a DSLR. Oddly enough, I had to shoot piles of shots with my G10 and hope that some turned out. I shoot far fewer withmy DSLR because my success rate is far higher.
 
How about going for a mirrorless camera and maybe invest a bit more in a good housing? (Like Searcaigh was sayig starting to build a bit the accessory library would be a good future investment).

And also get a good pair of strobes and some good lens?

Any suggestions on the camera or housing?
 
The shutter lag that you're experiencing with a compact camera is caused by contrast-detection autofocus that almost all compact cameras rely on (Sony RX100 V(a) and VI are a notable exception). With CDAF, the camera processor analyzes the image output of the sensor and looks for areas with high contrast, then shifts the lens back and forth until the transitions between those areas become as sharp as possible - this takes time. DSLRs, on the other hand, use phase-detection autofocus - a dedicated secondary sensor matrix that is capable of identifying rays of light emitted by the same point on your subject and measuring how far apart they are, effectively identifying not just that the lens is out of focus, but in what direction and by how much; once this is known, the camera processor can quickly move the lens elements directly to proper position, instead of hunting back and forth for proper contrast in the image.
However, since the mirror that is used to reflect light into this secondary array covers the primary sensor, you must use the optical viewfinder in order to compose your shot. Underwater, wearing a mask, trying to shoot something in a crevice while avoiding touching the reef, this can prove challenging. Some housings accept add-on viewfinders that make it easier, but those are bulky, heavy and expensive. If you switch to live view mode in order to compose using the camera screen rather than viewfinder, then the PDAF array disengages, and most SLRs switch to using CDAF, just like a compact - with the same sluggish performance and shutter lag.
Most modern mirrorless cameras use hybrid autofocus - the PDAF points are built into the main sensor instead of a dedicated array, and are used to quickly acquire focus, with CDAF used for final small adjustments. Some, but not all, modern DSLRs have this mode as well - for example, Canon 800D and 77D can use dual-pixel AF (Canon term for on-sensor PDAF) in live view, but the cheaper 200D is limited to CDAF in this mode.
My personal experience is limited to Sony A6300 and Panasonic FX35, and while the latter had the pronounced shutter lag that compact cameras are known for, the A6300 responds instantly, and with a mirrorless camera, you can pick whether you want to use the viewfinder or rear display with no compromises in camera performance. Unlike a DSLR, you can also review the shots that you've taken in the viewfinder, since it is an electronic display, and you get focus aids such as focus peaking, magnification, and zebra stripes. Note that not all mirrorless cameras offer PDAF - all current Canon EOS M (and R), Fujifilm X and Sony Alpha cameras have it, but Olympus only offers it in their most expensive E-M1 Mark II body, and Panasonic doesn't have it at all.
Some mirrorless cameras are quite small - in particular, the Sony crop-sensor cameras (A5xxx/A6xxx) are barely larger than a compact while others use big, DSLR-style bodies (case in point: Panasonic GH5). The reduced thickness of a mirrorless camera body (allowed by the absence of a mirror box) lends itself to significantly more compact housings.
I use a Sony A6300 in a Meikon/SeaFrogs housing and while it's not a be-all end-all setup, the price/performance ratio is hard to beat.
 
With a $5k budget, you could get:

A6300 body (used): $600
SD card, 2x NP-FW50 batteries, charger: about $100
SEL16F28 + VCL-ECF1 (used): $200
SEL1018 (used): $450
SEL90M28G (used): $750
SeaFrogs Salted Line Housing with 6" dome and cover: $500
SeaFrogs 4" fisheye dome: $170
SeaFrogs long macro port: $130
SeaFrogs VPS-100 vacuum system: $120
Tray with 2 arms, 2 float arms, 4 clamps: $250
Inon Z-330 (x2) with Z joints and fiber cables: $1530
Eneloop Pro batteries (x16): $130

This will cover fisheye, wide-angle and macro. If you're averse to buying used, getting the same camera and lenses new will cost about $1200 more. You can also add a Sony 18-135mm or 16-50mm as a general-purpose zoom to use on land.
 

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