The above mentioned light is mainly for technical and cave diving.
Yes. My Big Blue light was around $150, has an adjustable diameter beam, and works just fine for the mainly tropical diving in good viz. conditions I do. If I were doing deep dives in dark, low-viz. conditions with a lot of particulates to cut through, I might want one of the 'can lights' I used to read about, with a cable to a battery pack. But that's way more than I need for what I do.
Just to add in. If you just doing recreational diving and don't collect cert cards. Most gear is buy once, cry once. Get a quality reg, bc etc and you won't need to replace it unless you get the wrong one. That's why I'm a huge advocate of trying out different things so you only buy once.
Agree again. Getting your gear choice right the first time can save you money later. That said, and if your local diving is often cold water (?), let's talk about some factors you may find useful.
1.) Regulators - for some environments, some people like environmentally sealed regulators. Do you anticipate ever diving really cold water?
2.) I use a B2, a mid.-range regulator in the Atomic Aquatics line. A.A. makes much more expensive reg.s with more titanium content that weigh a little less...but I'm told breathe about the same. Personally, not worth it to me. My point is, sometimes the juice ain't worth the squeeze. There are a number of reputable brands.
3.) With BCDs, jacket style predominant, there are back-inflate models that could aid horizontal trim underwater, and some here like back plate/wing setups instead (modular, more customizable, but require more learning curve to make your choices). If you think you might go for technical diving someday, BP/W might be worth pursuing from the outset. If you rent gear in tropical destinations...you'll be using a jacket I expect.
4.) Dive computers - you can drive yourself crazy trying to compare them all. There are 3 main 'styles' - console, wrist 'puck' (bigger than a watch) and wrist watch. Each comes in 2 choices - air-integrated (acts as an SPG and shows your gas pressure, and often estimates air time remaining) and non-air-integrated (so you'd need an SPG). Many can connect to your home computer (some your phone) and upload dive data; air-integrated ones may upload start and end pressures and SAC rate. Air-integrated puck or wrist models require you to put a wireless transmitter on one of your regulator 1st stage's high pressure ports.
There are a number of popular brands. On Scuba Board, the Shearwater Perdix A.I. and Teric are praised. I'm not saying they're your best bet, just pointing you at something to start with...that's higher end. Deep 6 has a reputable non-A.I. option -
the Excursion; some recommend buying a cheaper computer now figuring by the time you need something high end you may want a new one anyway.
5.) Cutting tools - you likely don't need a big dive knife. It's not to fight off sharks. A Trilobyte (or DiveGearExpress EZ cutter, with a non-rusting blade, IIRC), or a titanium small knife or line cutter can serve. Regular 'stainless steel' dive knives are cheaper than titanium dive knives, but rust pretty easily. I opted for an alternative to titanium - a Spyderco brand knife model with H1 steel, and like it.
Some people prefer breaking the tip off a cheap steak knife and using that as your cutting tool. So there are different approaches to deciding on a cutting tool.
I suspect for travel diving warm water, high viz., 'aquarium-like' conditions, you can just rent gear other than a mask and be fine for awhile. If you aim to get seriously into cold water diving, I suspect you'll want more of your own stuff sooner - like thick wetsuit (or dry suit), hood, gloves and boots, your own BCD you're familiar with, etc...