New canister light cable.

[lucca brassi]

There isn't much room or wire to mess with near the ballast so I don't want to do it again unless it would prevent me from ruining the light.

Maybe you can solve that problem in way that you made some kind of ''puck'' that you would screwed on upper surface of lid thick arround 25mm (inch) .

Yo can made a little bigger hole in that ''puck'' to keep existing switch in original lid position and you route cable inside it in 90° and then finish with gland as suggested ?

 

[Aquabot]

Maybe you can solve that problem in way that you made some kind of ''puck'' that you would screwed on upper surface of lid thick arround 25mm (inch) .

Yo can made a little bigger hole in that ''puck'' to keep existing switch in original lid position and you route cable inside it in 90° and then finish with gland as suggested ?

I'm talking about on the light head portion (I think the ballast is there and the capacitor is in the battery can). There just isn't a lot of wiring coming from the ballast so I didn't want to take the light apart again to re solder 18-3 in, unless I would be better off. 16-3 in a gland that just had 18-3 in it...I think I will be fine and seal but thought to ask before getting it wet.

That's a great idea too about the puck. I decided to skip on the 90 gland and just reuse the original giving the point that was brought up. So no puck is needed for the can lid.

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[raftingtigger]

18-3 or 16-3 should make no difference whatsoever.

 

[Aquabot]

18-3 or 16-3 should make no difference whatsoever.

Awesome, thanks for all your help.

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[Aquabot]

I now have a issue I could really use some help with. Wednesday night I successfully replaced my light cable, the light worked no problems what's so ever. Later tonight (Thursday) the light won't come on Acts as if the battery is dead and it is not. Any help would be appreciated greatly.

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[raftingtigger]

Go back and test all your connections. Sounds like a wire is loose of a solder connection broke.

Isolate the light guts so you don't burn it out accidentally while testing. Use a volt meter to see where you are getting power to and where it stops. That is where to fix. If you don't have a meter, you can pick one up at almost any hardware store, Radio Shack, or Fry's Electronics.

 

[Aquabot]

Go back and test all your connections. Sounds like a wire is loose of a solder connection broke.

Isolate the light guts so you don't burn it out accidentally while testing. Use a volt meter to see where you are getting power to and where it stops. That is where to fix. If you don't have a meter, you can pick one up at almost any hardware store, Radio Shack, or Fry's Electronics.

I did that earlier today and received power to the ballast but not coming out . After talking with light monkey the believe it is the igniter because of how I separated the light head. The down side is the igniter and ballast are sold as a assembly and costs about 150 bucks. Think I'm going to send it out to them on Monday and let them fix what I apparently broke lol.

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[raftingtigger]

Or just change technology and put in an appropriate LED module. They have gotten pretty good.

How many watts is your HID?

 

[Aquabot]

Or just change technology and put in an appropriate LED module. They have gotten pretty good.

How many watts is your HID?

Its the 35watt

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[raftingtigger]

Its the 35watt

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DIY Diver is speaking here : A 35 Watt HID should be roughly somewhere about 3000 lumens. Check your battery pack and see both what the voltage and capacity is. Measure your light head interior dimensions. Then go peruse dx.com and see if you can find an LED drop in module to fit both your desired light output, battery voltage, and space available. If you find something that fits, then decide if you want to have fun doing a little DIY work. If you don't permanently modify anything on your current light head you can always fall back on having the HID unit fixed.

If you want even more fun check out: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/ma...pot-diffuse-video-project-detailed-plans.html

A possible drop-in http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S021393