New canister light cable.

[Aquabot]

Has any body aver replaced there canister light cable themselves? I'd like to lengthen my cable and change the gland to a sidemount (butt-mounting) gland. If so were did you get your cable and are there any specials precautions to be taken as to not damage the light?

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[Dsix36]

WiringProducts, Ltd. 135 Isidor Ct. Suite B Sparks Nevada 89441 United States Phone: 1-800-549-0243 Fax: 775-425-2997e mail: sales@wiringproducts.com Home Page: Automotive Wire Terminals - Battery Cable & Electrical Supplies Phone (orders): 1-800-549-0243 Fax (orders): 1-775-425-2997 Email (orders): sales@wiringproducts.com Name Cat. No. Options Price Subtotal 10 x SJOOW Power Cord - Sold By The Foot SJOOW Wire Size/Count: 16ga. 2 Conductor, Cat. No.: 2163 (US$1.34) Product details

 

[raftingtigger]

SJOOW 16ga 2 conductor about $0.40/foot at your local Home Depot.

 

[Aquabot]

WiringProducts, Ltd. 135 Isidor Ct. Suite B Sparks Nevada 89441 United States Phone: 1-800-549-0243 Fax: 775-425-2997e mail: sales@wiringproducts.com Home Page: Automotive Wire Terminals - Battery Cable & Electrical Supplies Phone (orders): 1-800-549-0243 Fax (orders): 1-775-425-2997 Email (orders): sales@wiringproducts.com Name Cat. No. Options Price Subtotal 10 x SJOOW Power Cord - Sold By The Foot SJOOW Wire Size/Count: 16ga. 2 Conductor, Cat. No.: 2163 (US$1.34)

Sorry about my late reply, now what about the "Sidemount" glands? Can I get that from home depot too or do I need to order that from online, if online can you provide me the source link please. Thanks again, you folks are awesome.

 

[ScubaMarc]

I replaced my nite rider gland with this. Component: Water-Proof Cable Gland, For Cable Size 1.5- 5 mm With Locknut

 

[Aquabot]

I replaced my nite rider gland with this. Component: Water-Proof Cable Gland, For Cable Size 1.5- 5 mm With Locknut

My light is the 35 watt hid light monkey (guess I should have said that to start) so using that still wouldn't route 90* out of the lid. I would also like to try and get one with a "stress relief" for the cable. I'm thinking about just seeing if I can buy the SM lid from light monkey but will have to wait until Tuesday because of the holiday, just trying not to spend more than what is really needed.

 

[raftingtigger]

I think the 90 deg glands are very expensive. You might try http://www.newark.com. You need to make sure the threads into the can are the right size, and the gland accommodates the cable diameter. Lastly make sure there is a long enough thread to securely screw into the can lid.

 

[lucca brassi]

Just drill hole from side , cut in threat and replace original gland !

For original hole put inside rubber cork ( right size ) , little sikaflex sealent (NOT GLUE!) and put blind metal plug (I think PG11- not sure) with Oring

https://www.mencom.com/shop/index.php/aitdownloadablefiles/download/aitfile/aitfile_id/269527/ ( I use them for reserve hole ) for reference look that

Lights




PS: 90° GLAND IS NOT GOOD ! WHY?

90° gland make with cable very long handle and with the vertical vibration of cable gland can be loose and leak.
It is also important on which side of the rear bushing is positioned gland as can be tightened from the right to the left of it collapsing

In upper case there is no such problems . And keep away from plastic glands special like from upper link !

 

[raftingtigger]

Just drill hole from side , cut in threat and replace original gland !

For original hole put inside rubber cork ( right size ) , little sikaflex sealent (NOT GLUE!) and put blind metal plug (I think PG11- not sure) with Oring

https://www.mencom.com/shop/index.php/aitdownloadablefiles/download/aitfile/aitfile_id/269527/ ( I use them for reserve hole ) for reference look that

Lights

View attachment 155854


PS: 90° GLAND IS NOT GOOD ! WHY?

90° gland make with cable very long handle and with the vertical vibration of cable gland can be loose and leak.
It is also important on which side of the rear bushing is positioned gland as can be tightened from the right to the left of it collapsing

In upper case there is no such problems . And keep away from plastic glands special like from upper link !

Great solution!

The beauty of this idea is you don't even need to buy a cable gland. You are just moving the one you already have.

 

[Aquabot]

I agree does sound like a good alternative. And apparently depending on the size of there canister, light monkey doesn't even make a sm lid for it but he just suggested putting a longer cable on it. Thanks for your help everybody.
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---------- Post added May 28th, 2013 at 11:54 AM ----------

Just drill hole from side , cut in threat and replace original gland !

For original hole put inside rubber cork ( right size ) , little sikaflex sealent (NOT GLUE!) and put blind metal plug (I think PG11- not sure) with Oring

https://www.mencom.com/shop/index.php/aitdownloadablefiles/download/aitfile/aitfile_id/269527/ ( I use them for reserve hole ) for reference look that

Lights

View attachment 155854


PS: 90° GLAND IS NOT GOOD ! WHY?

90° gland make with cable very long handle and with the vertical vibration of cable gland can be loose and leak.
It is also important on which side of the rear bushing is positioned gland as can be tightened from the right to the left of it collapsing

In upper case there is no such problems . And keep away from plastic glands special like from upper link !

I never thought of that, so you saved me a bunch of time and headache lol.

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---------- Post added May 29th, 2013 at 12:17 AM ----------

Well tonight I finally extended the cable on my light. Bought the 16-3 wire only to discover that the wire on my light was 18-3 (should have looked there to start smh.). Anyways the glands appeared to cinch down and seal well on the cable with only a little play in the stress relief. Curious on what y'all think about it.

There isn't much room or wire to mess with near the ballast so I don't want to do it again unless it would prevent me from ruining the light.

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