Neoprene drysuit p-valve?

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aquaregia

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I don't see too much on SB about the cheap thick neoprene drysuits. Can you install a p-valve in them? Is it worth the expense?
 
I have such a suit that will be retiring soon mainly since it is not self donning, at leaset not in any practical way. They are very warm, inexpensive and also don't require elaborate undergarments. They are relatively heavy to begin with, forget about packing them in luggage for a trip. Being neoprene they are most buoyant at the surface and require substantial lead. They are slow to dry, inside and out. Also being neoprene they will lose thermal properties with depth. They are great for shore dives to the 45 foot range. After that the compression becomes more and more apparent and you will get colder. They often have neoprene seals which can also get sloppy when deep as the foam compresses. Depending on the cut they can squeeze up and swim real nice. The neoprene will eventually break down and develop leaks that can be nearly impossible to locate and repair . Did I say they were inexpensive? There will be exceptions but as a general statement they a usually bought as starter suits. I got mine year one and have 5 years of use, it's held up well.

More on the topic.

I don't see why a P valve couldn't be added. A reinforcing ting may want to be glued in place as they do for the valves. Also check the mounting for the first few dives until the neoprene takes a set on thickness.

Pete
 
Cheers. I pretty much exclusively do shore dives in about 40' of 50deg water. So without undergarmets in a 7mm dry I'd have similar warmth to a 7mm wet, but be dry?
 
You will be warmer. I made such a dive yesterday and my lower body was noticeably warm while the rest of me was perfectly comfortable.

You will want to wear a good synthetic wicking garment, like expedition weight Under Armor or the like. In that you will be dandy down to 50F or less. Next step is to add something like a polar fleece vest.
 
When I saw this question, my immediate thought was, "How would you cope with the fact that the neoprene compresses with depth?" But perhaps, if you can screw the p-valve on hard enough to squeeze the neoprene down, and then be generous with the glue, it might work.
 
When I saw this question, my immediate thought was, "How would you cope with the fact that the neoprene compresses with depth?" But perhaps, if you can screw the p-valve on hard enough to squeeze the neoprene down, and then be generous with the glue, it might work.

The same way the inflator and vent are installed.

Getting back to the OP's question about the P-Valve being worth it I'd say yes and I have never even used one yet. I do have a new suit coming and it will be equipped from the get go. I already have my "consumables" ready to go. I am tired of needing to manage my hydration down to make drysuit dives and remain "self contained". Doing so opens you to a whole slew of less than desirable outcomes including dry mouth, seas-sickness, DCS, and cramping for openers. A few weeks ago I was making my first wet dive of the season and I was giddy with delight as I gulped water on the way to the dive site.

It's sort of sick to consider that a decent balanced pee valve probably costs as much as equally good balanced second stage regulator but that's the way it is! Until they go mainstream small scale manufacturing is expensive.

Pete
 
I have 2 Oneil 7mm neo drysuits. I dive at an average of 75' -100' on most dives in 68 degree water. I crawl through tight restrictions in caves and am not easy on it.

I installed P valves on both and have never had an issue with either. As far as being hard to dry, I just leave mine in the sun for a few minutes, pull it inside out, leave it in the sun for a few more minutes and then get it out of the sun. I don't "leave" them in the sun, but a 1/2 hour or so each side isn't gonna hurt it. Hell, you wear it in the sun. One suit is from 2007 and the other pre 2005.

To answer your question, yes it is worth it if you want to. Burn a hole with a solder iron and then crank it down with a bit of teflon tape on the threads.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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