need strobe help

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OK I was looking at the Inon d2000 just now, and they mentioned you have to put a filter over the cameras flash, to block out all but IR wavelengths, Does the Fiber optic cable then glue, or stick to the outside of the case in front of the cameras flash unit? I like the Inon, with its light to illuminate the area in advance. Sounds like a nice strobe. I still need to figure some of this stuff out. I also don;t see the difference in the Inonz220 and the d2000. The look the same from this untrained eye, and both use FO cables.
 
Ok Ignore the previous question about TTL The hyper link Justleesa gave me has a very good PDF on how it all works. I do however have another new question. What is "preflash" I looked into the specs for the f810, and it doesn't mention a "preflash" setting, except for red eye reduction. Is this the same as preflash? Inon says those stobes mentioned above are compatible with any Digital camera having preflash. sorry about all these questions, but I want to make sure everything will be compatible, considering the costs involved.
 
Just confirmed that the f810 is a NON PREFLASH camera. does anyone know if the d2000 will still fire with this camera, even though it won't be sycronized flash I was going to order this outfit today, but this is a major stumbling question.
 
diverrick:
Just confirmed that the f810 is a NON PREFLASH camera. does anyone know if the d2000 will still fire with this camera, even though it won't be sycronized flash I was going to order this outfit today, but this is a major stumbling question.

If you re-read Ryan's post, he said that the D2000 was compatible with your camera.

Dave
 
dbh:
If you re-read Ryan's post, he said that the D2000 was compatible with your camera.

Dave

I apologize if what I asked was taken in the wrong light. What I was attempting to say was that "Ryan" who I do not know, said that the strobe was compatible, but the Manufacturers website said it would only work with Preflash Cameras, so I wanted to find out if it would or would nor work, as it is, after all it is a lot of money to be layed out. I want to be sure that it will work for sure. After I Posted that thread, Inon contacted me directly, and told me that they had "confirmed" that it would work with that combo, so I took that to mean that they were not fully sure either, until I asked.
I have contacted Ryans Company and asked them for a quote for the package I have described, if that helps any. Sorry if I Pxxxxx anyone off for asking what to many of you may seem like stupid questions. I will be the first one to admit that this whole excercise has been a mind boggling experience for me. Thanks to everyone who has offered advise and help to date.
 
Don't worry, as they say, there is no such thing as a stupid question....sorry that I can't answer it for you as I am unfamilar with your camera. I hope someone can answer it for you! and if it works and when you get it...you're going to be amazed at your results!!
 
I apologize if my post sounded like I was PO'd. I don't always choose the right words (hey, I'm an Engineer. We are not known for our word skills :)).

I onderstand that this u/w photography is an EXPENSIVE hobby and that you want to make the right choices.

Dive safe,
Dave
 
Dan-

Maybe posting a new thread with examples so some of the great photographers here, and myself, can can offer advice would be the best coarse of action? Ikelite for Olympus TTL has been really well recieved by most of my customers that use it.

I have lots of opinions, and would like to see some of the shots, along with exif data, to make sure we are speaking the same language.

Or, just take off work and come diving with me on the Peace the 20-23, and we'll definately sort it out there :)

DiverRick, the d2000 is calibrated to a preflash or non-preflash camera by a magnet that is installed in the back of the strobe when used with a NON-preflash camera. S-TTL isn't compatible, unfortunately. You coudl try the slave TTL mode, but in most cases the sensor is obscured by the lens port, and metering is a bit off. For these reasons I recommend starting in External Auto Mode, and growing into manual strobe control.
 
you're tempting me, ryan!
lol!!

as for the shots, i DO love my 8080 and appreciated the setup you advised.....the only thing is.....manual mode is WAY better for me than the P mode with auto TTL. seems all blue and washed out....manual mode gives much better color, depth, etc....

just my 2 cents...

ps> i posted some in my gallery too!

hope you have a great time!

-dan

Ryan:
Dan-

Maybe posting a new thread with examples so some of the great photographers here, and myself, can can offer advice would be the best coarse of action? Ikelite for Olympus TTL has been really well recieved by most of my customers that use it.

I have lots of opinions, and would like to see some of the shots, along with exif data, to make sure we are speaking the same language.

Or, just take off work and come diving with me on the Peace the 20-23, and we'll definately sort it out there :)

DiverRick, the d2000 is calibrated to a preflash or non-preflash camera by a magnet that is installed in the back of the strobe when used with a NON-preflash camera. S-TTL isn't compatible, unfortunately. You coudl try the slave TTL mode, but in most cases the sensor is obscured by the lens port, and metering is a bit off. For these reasons I recommend starting in External Auto Mode, and growing into manual strobe control.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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