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Personally, I'd suggest getting a dry suit over a thick wetsuit, and have a p-valve installed. It just makes diving so much more comfortable if you ask me.

You are on the right track with a BP/W setup. I won't try to add anything here.

Here in the Puget Sound area, I don't know of anyone who rents FFM. There is a shop that sells them (not open on weekends), but I think that is to support the professional dive industry (meaning people who work underwater, not instructors and such).

I absolutely love AI with my wrist dive computer. Look carefully at battery life and how to recharge batteries. That's been an issue for me. Definitely get an OLED, as those are quite readable in turbid waters.

And if you only plan on diving 20 years, you'll stop when I started. I plan to dive for as long as I can strap a tank to my back. And then, I'll switch to side mount.

Good luck! And see you under the surface.
 
So i was at my local scuba shop today and the one wet suit that I really liked that they had was the Hollis Neotek semi wet/dry suit that they have.. what are your guys thoughts on it? Also, I don't want to get a dry suit because I freedive a lot as well.. so I want something that I could use for both scuba and free diving.. Also, when I said I'll be in scuba for the next 20 years, I meant 20+ years lol I'm not going to stop as soon as I hit the 20 year mark lol I meant it as me being in this hobby for a very long time..

Also, what would be a good balanced first stage for cold water?
 
Also, I don't want to get a dry suit because I freedive a lot as well.. so I want something that I could use for both scuba and free diving.

Don't try to do that. You will end up with a compromise that is not good for either sport.

Mikkel
 
So i was at my local scuba shop today
Dolphin? If not you should check them out.
Also, what would be a good balanced first stage for cold water?

Some that are known for cold water performance off their website:

Aqualung Legend Glacia - being a licensed dealer it's hysterically overpriced though IMO. There's other low temperature Legend's - it's just the coldest option.
Scubapro MK17 EVO (or just a MK17) EVO is their colder water designation but cold water divers have been diving MK17's for years - it's their upper end diaphragm model.
Scubapro MK21 - has some features designed for cold water
Scubapro MK25 EVO - the classic with the EVO kit.
DiveRite 3100 - know nothing about this one.

I see they also list Apeks since Aqualung is the U.S. Apeks distributor. Didn't see regs on the website. Some of their models are very good in cold water also.

Diaphragm regs are generally thought to be better inherently in cold water than piston regs.
 
Don't try to do that. You will end up with a compromise that is not good for either sport.Mikkel
I honestly don't know/see how I could compromise both free diving and scuba diving with a super good/almost best wet suit that's out there when I'll just use it for both until I decide to get a dry suit down the road for scuba... since I do a lot of free diving as well which requires a wetsuit since a dry suit won't work for freediving..
 
I honestly don't know/see how I could compromise both free diving and scuba diving with a super good/almost best wet suit that's out there when I'll just use it for both until I decide to get a dry suit down the road for scuba... since I do a lot of free diving as well which requires a wetsuit since a dry suit won't work for freediving..

Different objectives, different tools. If you're serious about diving long term, make the up front investment in the right tools. Or don't - it's completely up to you. The advice is this thread has been thoughtfully offered, and is worth your consideration.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'm curious about the differences in wetsuits for scuba and freediving. Why would a wetsuit be ideal for scuba and not for freediving or vice-versa? I never heard of a 'freediving' wetsuit. But I don't free dive so I wouldn't be looking.
 
I would consider drysuit,BP/wing with steel plate,and HOG regulator set up with long hose. I love my HOG regulator and it's a good value,too. Plus, you can take a class and then do your own maintenance.
for BP/Wing DSS and HOGs are nice. I have a Halcyon for my cold water set up with 30 lb wing and a plain DSS for warm water with an 18 lb wing.
Drysuit-lots of good brands. Mine is a Diving Concepts but the company is out of business.
Computer-strongly suggest spending money on a good,tech type computer rather than an air integrated. Mine is a Liquivision. Shearwater Petrols are also really nice.
Forget the FFM and use that money for other things like a drysuit. In CA,you will want the drysuit. I dove my whole first year in Puget Sound with a 7+5 wetsuit and would never do that again. Now that I have a drysuit,I use it for anything too cool for a 1ml or 3ml.
From some of the questions you've asked,I might suggest spending more time taking some specialty classes ( drysuit class can be included in a purchase a lot) and diving with some experienced divers. Shore diving is cheap and plentiful,especially since you are a young,strong free diver. Get involved in a club or meet up with folks from here. See what type of rigs they have and ask lots of questions about why they have what they have.
I bought used 20 years ago as a poor medical student and I really wished that I'd replaced some of the rig sooner,especially the bc and regulator. However, that used gear worked and got me in the water for a lot of dives while saving me a ton of money.
The gear I have now should last me the rest of my life. My husband has bought me some expensive gifts,such as my custom drysuit,computer and the Halcyon BP/Wing. We also purchased can lights and though I haven't gotten to try them yet (I was injured right after he bought them) I'm planning some tech classes soon and can't wait to get back in some cold water!
Don't forget Black Friday is coming up. There should be great sales on all the gear you need through places like DRIS.
 
I'm curious about the differences in wetsuits for scuba and freediving. Why would a wetsuit be ideal for scuba and not for freediving or vice-versa? I never heard of a 'freediving' wetsuit. But I don't free dive so I wouldn't be looking.
I don't see the difference either.. As long as it's a really good high quality wet-suit.. right?

---------- Post added November 21st, 2015 at 05:07 PM ----------

What kind of fins are y'all using?
 
My suggestions:

  1. Buy a drysuit first. You want to do free diving, which is fine, but if you're going to spend an hour underwater and it's cold enough for a full face mask-- it's probably cold enough for a drysuit. The marginal utility per dollar is a lot higher on a drysuit than a full face mask. Ideally get a front-zipped drysuit- if you get a back zip, consider installing a P-valve. Nothing sucks more than being stuck in a drysuit needing to pee or calling a dive early because you need to pee.
  2. Buy high pressure, high capacity steel tanks. If you get two, that gives you a lot of options. You can split them on your first dive with a buddy diving two 80s, you can turn them into doubles, and they are perfect for a two-tank dive boat.
    -There are a lot of used Worthington HP 100 and 120 cylinders floating around. They weigh about the same as an 80 AL tank, but carry a lot more air.
    -If you're interested, Faber also came out with a 149 HP, which is a beast. It's a bit heavy (I am 170 lbs/ 5'11" and can carry it and an attached pony) but I can stay under for two hours with this guy:
    Faber High Pressure 149 Steel Tank | Dive Right In Scuba - Plainfield, IL - Dive Right in Scuba
  3. Then get a full face mask. I really recommend at least 50 dives- ideally 100 (which was my instructors requirement for the distinctive speciality) first. Take the course and then practice doffing and switching to a reg and half mask with your actual diving configuration. (And always carry a half mask with you on every dive.)

I think diving in cold water for over an hour is a perfectly good reason to get a full face mask. If your friends agree and get comm units on their masks, then it becomes an even better reason. But there are higher utility per dollar things to get first- like a drysuit, like really good gloves and a really good hood, etc.

IMO, scubaboard seems to be biased against full face masks. Some of this bias seems to come from divers who have never used one. If scubaboard treated full face masks the same way it treats drysuits (despite the fact that they add complexity to your gear, and they add a lot more task loading than a full face mask), it would become a recommended piece of gear for those who could afford it. Indeed it seems to be heading that way in the genuinely experienced technical circles (CC rebreatherworld) and I've been seeing a lot more of them on Lake Michigan and in ice diving lately.

You will have to make your own decisions on this. If you can use it safely, and if it improves your diving experience, why would you not give yourself the option?
 
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https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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