Need help with installing a pee valve, please

[Campana]

I have a Viking X Treme drysuit and recently obtained a Si Tech pee valve without instructions. It came with two flanges (gaskets), one large and one small, that have rings which appear to mate with the outside part of the valve. It looks like I choose either the large or small flange, and glue it to the outside of the suit, then cut the round hole in the center (Yikes) and screw the valve to the suit with the order being outside part, flange, suit, inside part.

Also could use some tips on gluing to this material. I have some glue that came with the suit and plan on using it. I also may "prime" with toluene. Good idea?

 

[Rick Murchison]

When I installed mine, I used a soldering iron to make the hole - "cauterizes" the edges as it goes.
Rick

 

[trymixdiver]

Im not familar with that pee valve but i have a Viking and i installed mine.

I would highly reccommend you go to the hardware store and buy a pipe the same size as the whole you need to make in the suit. Put a taper on it with a grider and use it as a punch. It makes a perfectly round clean hole. Just cut the pipe down to about 2 or 3 inches. Theres no way to cut it round and cleanly with sissors.

Andy

 

[Uncle Pug]

Originally posted by trymixdiver
I would highly reccommend you go to the hardware store and buy a pipe the same size as the whole you need to make in the suit.

Talk to Bob3 about the glue issue...

Contact your p-valve dealer (unless you stole it) and get the instructions...

Make the hole punch smaller than the hole you need and let the material stretch around it for a tight fit...

Backup the hole punching operation with a small piece of wood on the inside of the suit so you don't punch an exit wound in the back side of the leg...

Buy your caths from www.bestbuymedical.com ....

 

[roakey]

Irvine talks about using a [spent] shell casing for a punch. I don't remember if it was a 9mm or .45, and don't want to start that debate here

Roak

 

[trymixdiver]

Pug

whats the backer for ? hehe

I thought it was obvious, but you never know. Thanks for filling in the gaps.

Andy

 

[Bob3]

The "official" name for those rubber 'flange' critters is "valve port", no doubt a direct translation from the Swedish.
You can get away with the smaller diameter one, that's what comes with the valve & recommended by the mfgr.
Brock's done a couple (or at least 1) & I seem to recall he had some useful information on the topic.
;-)
Plain old wetsuit cement is what ya use to attach the valve port, wipe it and the suit material with toluene, and scuff the port with 60 grit AFTER wiping with the thinner.
Apply 2 coats of glue to each surface, allowing to dry tack free between coats.
Whack port with rubber mallet to set (just the rubber part, not the valve)
Let sit overnight before running an exacto knife around the inside of the port & screw valve body together.
Give the valve base a wipe with silicone grease & hand tighten.

Keep the valve in the tightened position, loosen or press to whizz. It's best not to keep it loose & get in the habit of peeing whenever you want; it can have embarassing carryovers, like peeing in your pants whenever you get bored. ut:

 

[Campana]

with opinions. and facts. Bob, thanks a lot for the instructions. That'll be very helpful. I'll go with the small valve port and can't believe you didn't specify duct tape! I'll try to do a neat job. I can't use the mallet trick though, I don't have a metric mallet. Do you think a Whitworth mallet will fit? I could send to Sweden for a Metric mallet, but don't want to wait that long.

Uncle pug, thanks for the stretch it over tip. I don't think the material stretches much but I'll cut it a mm smaller and that'll make sure it's tight enough. Thanks for the tip for the backer board. I always used a backer board after the first time I used a soldering iron to burn holes in my hood to let the bubbles escape. I don't remember who gave me the tip about burning the holes, but they didn't mention a backer board, and it hurt like a ***** for a couple of weeks.

Roak, the caliber of the viking hole is not a wussy 9 mm nor is it a more satisifying and much more masculine .45; it's about a 12 guage, maybe even a 10 guage. got an old brass 10 guage laying around?

trimixdiver, that's a good tip but a little to time consuming for punching a hole that I'll never see again (hopefully) but I'm storing away that tip for next time I need to punch a neat hole.

And Bob, I'll pee when I want. I'm not putting it on a schedule. I already piss on myself when I get bored, so it shouldn't make much difference.

By the way, none of you guys mentioned whether it's DIR to put it on the left or the right. I ain't putting it in the middle, it'll be too painful to punch the little button.

 

[Uncle Pug]

Originally posted by Campana
By the way, none of you guys mentioned whether it's DIR to put it on the left or the right.

You didn't ask.

btw: I did hear of a guy who not only installed it on his chest but took delight in taking a whiz while standing there in the parking lot talking to people.

 

[Dryglove]

Could anyone provide a pic of the si tech p valve.Im really curious to see what one looks like.Is it anything like the halcyon maybe?