Need help from C5050/PT-015 users

[10X]

Whenever I opened my PT-015 housing, it was very tight and appeared to be well sealed. I had to work at it to get it open. This was right from the factory that way and was rarely opened except for using it on one dive.

Tonight I cleaned the o-rings and grooves for the first time. I'm just getting started so this is the first cleaning after I used it on the dive.

I put everything back together and it doesn't seal like it did before. It acts as though the door is warped. I have removed/replaced the o-rings twice to make sure they are in properly, but it didn't change anything.

It appears that the o-rings are in their grooves properly and not protruding anywhere.

When I do close the door all the way, near the lock, I can insert my fingernail between the door and case.

It's as if something near the hinge is forcing the door open.

Is this normal because the o-rings have been removed/replaced, or does it sound like there is something wrong?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Gilligan]

I'm a PT-010 user but the case is basically the same except you have two O-rings.
Don't leave the O-rings in the housing. Store them in a baggy looped over once then inside the housing. It was probably tough to open the first time because it was laying around for a long time before you bought it.
If you think something has happened to the housing and have a bad feeling about it then don't use it until you test it.
Put a 2 pound soft weight in it and find a dive shop that can pressure test it for you.
That way you will know for sure if it is okay.

 

[Dee]

Did you close it without the O-rings in it? Did you still 'feel' the same thing? Mine was extremely tight to begin with, too. It's loosened up some but it's still tight.

A test run is always recommended.

 

[10X]

Thanks for the responses. I feel better now.

I bought the case some time ago and used in Sept. for one dive. It was a little too cold here in Michigan for much diving after that, so I just stored the case (room temp). I'm getting ready to go to Hawaii, 1/24/04, and have an UW photography class today, so I decided I better perform some maintenance on the o-rings last night. That's when I noticed it didn't close the way it used to.

I thought it could be because the o-rings were now "rejuvenated" but wasn't sure what others encountered. The o-rings appear to be fully seated and are not bulging. On my second attempt at putting the o-rings in I didn't notice any damge to them from closing the case after the first insertion, so I thought they must be OK.

I'll take it in the pool tonight, without the camera, to be sure it doesn't leak.

It never hurts to ask advice from the experts so I appreciate you taking the time to respond.

 

[justleesa]

I remember when I opened my case for the first time it was as if there was a vacuum inside. It opens much easier now.

Lisa

 

[ReyeR]

1. To-date, if I leave the door of my PT-015 shut with the o-rings installed it is still very hard to open. I too thought this was due to vacuum but it isn't. It's just the way the o-rings seal in the housing. I found this out when I had disassembled and removed the mode dial of the housing for servicing - with a gaping hole in the housing the door and the o-rings installed it was still very hard to open.

2. Make sure the camera is seated properly in the housing with the mode dial of the housing making proper contact with that of the camera.

3. If you use silica gel ensure it is seated properly and the corners of the packet doesn't come between the door and the body of the housing.

4. Ofcourse, make sure the o-rings are seated properly in the grooves.

5. Also, apply enough grease on the o-rings - not a 'sloppy' amount but just a thin layer. This provides enough lubrication for the door to shut properly. If the door o-ring is too dry it will make it hard to shut the door and get a proper seal.

 

[teamheatwave]

I had to laugh the first time I read the manual on cleaning and greasing the orings. First you use the guitar pick looking thing to remove the orings. Then you clean them. Then make sure the tracks they sit in are free of dirt, sand, grit, hair, etc. Inspect the orings for disfigurement, nicks, cuts, etc. Use only the supplied lubricant. Place a dab on the inside of a ziplock sandwich bag. Knead the bag thoroughly. Then drop the oring in and knead again which places the lubricant on the orings in the proportions they want. Reseat the orings and I usually wipe off any excess which is rare. If you have a lot of excess you used too much lubricant. Repeat the process for the second oring. Once you colse it the first time it does close a little different as it pushed the orings back into place. Always test it though. It sounded funny, but it really did work. If in doubt, order a new set of orings. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to keep a set on hand in your spare parts kit.

 

[Warren_L]

If in doubt, order a new set of orings. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to keep a set on hand in your spare parts kit.

Ordered mine directly from Olympus on their website. Just came in last week while I was in Cozumel. No shipping charges.

 

[10X]

Well, I followed your suggestions and did what the manual said. At class last night I dipped the housing into the pool before installing the camera, and just like teamheatwave said, "it worked." I guess all my worrying was for naught, but being new to diving and underwater photography both, I don't want to mess up and lose a $600 camera right from the start.

Unfortuantely, I have to remove the camera and print the pictures I took, for class on Thursday, which means I have to go through this all over again.

I envy all of you who are taking such good pictures. I learned what controlling your buoyancy is all about, and it isn't easy. Maybe someday I'll be able to do it right. In addition, I'm trying to figure everything out on how to use the manual controls of the C5050, as many of you do. I have always used the program mode but have now learned that that position doesn't always take the best pictures.

The instructor attached one of her strobes to the camera last night as well. That thing is heavy. I also learned that I better learn how to use the internal flash before I try the strobe. One more variable isn't what I need right now.

I started all this at age 55. Do you think I'll be able to take a good picture before I'm too old to dive?

 

[TedJ]

Well, I followed your suggestions and did what the manual said. At class last night I dipped the housing into the pool before installing the camera, and just like teamheatwave said, "it worked." I guess all my worrying was for naught, but being new to diving and underwater photography both, I don't want to mess up and lose a $600 camera right from the start.

It always pays to "dip" the housing in occasionally to be certain that it is not leaking. Leaking occurs primarily when you have not properly seated the o-rings.

Unfortuantely, I have to remove the camera and print the pictures I took, for class on Thursday, which means I have to go through this all over again.

Get used to this procedure. You will perform it hundreds of times in the future.

I envy all of you who are taking such good pictures. I learned what controlling your buoyancy is all about, and it isn't easy. Maybe someday I'll be able to do it right.

It takes practice and care. Try to be aware of what is around you.

In addition, I'm trying to figure everything out on how to use the manual controls of the C5050, as many of you do. I have always used the program mode but have now learned that that position doesn't always take the best pictures.

Practice taking photos on land with the camera by itself and then with the camera in the housing. It's a very different feel with the housing. If you decide to shoot in manual, as I suggest you do, try starting sith some settings like 1/125 and f5.6, 1/60 and f8. Then adjust either the speed or the aperature until you are happy with the results. If you shoot below 1/60, the images might tend to be out of focus or blurred because it's just too slow.

The instructor attached one of her strobes to the camera last night as well. That thing is heavy. I also learned that I better learn how to use the internal flash before I try the strobe. One more variable isn't what I need right now.

These rigs are always unweildy out of the water, but they're not so bad once you get in. Look at some of Gilligan's earlier work if you want to see what can be done with the internal strobe.

I started all this at age 55. Do you think I'll be able to take a good picture before I'm too old to dive?

You got me by one year (well as of March) so you've still got plenty of time. And we're all here to help.
TEdJ