Need advice what extras to buy with compressor for V.humid enviroment - Coltri /Bauer

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globalmark

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Hi

We are looking at a new diving Business in Indonesia where its very humid all year round , I have been looking at either a Bauer M320 or a Coltrisub MCH 16 compressor as they are the two main companies in Indonesia - however when we Buy the compressor you can buy extras for tropical Enviroment's like , Tropical kits with Larger filter stacks, extra separators , auto condensation Drain
and some one mentioned :-
The Tropical Plus compressor block is a heavy duty series block that incorporates an oil pump, large stainless steel
interccolers and separators as well as separation between 1st and 2nd stages. ( not sure if the coltri comes with this as standard or a Extra)

Can someone spread some light on this - is it advisable to buy any or all of these extra's - what suggestions with regards to
compressors . trying to keep costs down but would like to get it right 1st time . Some compressor dealers mentioned don't need and others mention need.
Just trying to Understand what i need and what is best for the area.

would like to also after while get a membrane Nitrox added and maybe a small bank system (but that will be in future)

any info is much appriciated .
Thanks Mark
 
SNIP: We are looking at a new diving Business in Indonesia where its very humid all year round , I have been looking at either a Bauer M320 or a Coltrisub MCH 16 Just trying to Understand what i need and what is best for the area. Thanks Mark

Just to kick off, for starters.

Forget the sales blurb on the fancy colour brochures for a moment
You need practical pointers to get the best application. High humidity and high ambient heat is a killer
Indonesian suppliers a minefield of misinformation and misguided promise of under performance.

You need to look at industrial compressors and forget for a moment these high RPM "toys"
A big Low RPM block of around 600-800 RPM is key on industrial class compressors with at least 5 litres of cooling oil to kick off.

By comparison your Bauer Mariner 320 with its 88/36/14 piston set runs a staggering 1450 RPM on 2.8 litres

The Coltri MCH 16 by comparison runs at an eye watering 1550 RPM with its 95/38/14 piston set in its box of "powder coat" tin plate
when not waiting to rust using the cheapest sourced component cost in the business and a frankly ineffective 1.8 litres of cooling oil

So start off asking your local lot for a:

1. Fully Stainless 316 frame
2. Fully 316 Stainless A4 Nuts and bolts
3. the compressor block with Stainless Heads, Pistons and replaceable piston liners
4. Cast Iron Block (never Aluminium) Painted to NORSOK M-501 standard
or at worst with a two pack polyurethane
5. Never accept anything made of steel that is "powder coated"
6. Never accept anything in mild steel that is not hot dipped galvanised
7. Never accept any nut or bolt that is steel passivated.
9. Stainless 316 tubing throughout and with a decent swagelok fitting not some hard to get "hydraulic" some such cheap deal.
10. A fully 316 stainless heat exchanger and Fan Air cooler
11. Stainless 316 Swagelok, Hoke or Parker twin ferrule tube fittings, whatever is easiest available in the country

Motors.
A Totally enclosed fan ventilated (TEFV) motor with a reasonable IP rating (say IP 56 at least) Never accept anything "drip proof" for this type of application
or without knowing the IP water resistant rating. Specify a coated shaft, pulleys and bush, would IMHO be essential as would be 316 stainless A4 fixings
and again a decent two pack polyurethane paint coat. Unless your happy to change out the rusted motor each season. Personally steer clear of anything
Italian or Chinese, cheap junk. The two brands to look at are ABB and Siemens

Control.
Depending on the voltage Kw and Hz available always go for 24VDC control and again steer clear of anything "computer controlled" unless its again inside
a EEXe waterproof control box, or again high humidity will kill your system in a season
A 1 kg tray of molecular sieve will help reduce the RH and adsorb any moisture
but all the cable glands, switches and knobs also need to be rated for water ingress

Also don't get "hooked" into a computer controlled compressor system with lights and touch screen membrane control or you will get "hosed"
in service cost and maintenance charges every time the little light comes on for a "service Engineer" visit.

You did say you wanted to keep costs down, you never said you wanted cheap. :wink: LOL Iain Middlebrook
 
Hi Iain
thanks for the info , I will certainly have a google about Siemens and ABB compressors , but I have to also consider service and parts and accessories . And Bauer and Coltri are already in the area and Jakarta has main dealers and importers . Were also have a certain amount of money to invest in the whole project so when up and running we can upgrade compressor and parts but to start off just going to need a basic set up . But I still want to do it right .
in your Opinion are coltri and Bauer no good ?
i have worked in dive shops for years and never had a problem with either , I believe bauer last longer and less service but then almost double the price of equilivant Coltri sub ?

i know to stay away from computer controlled stuff , had problems with that before .
Also think motor will be a Petrol as the electricity is sporadic and only on certain hours of day so resort will be generators anyway .

i don't think I can ask local lot for many of those items as they Bauer or coltri dealers I know sell standard models and options - but will ask for sure .

thanks Mark
 
I have the equivalent of an MCH16 (Maxair CE90) and wouldn't recommend it as an industrial compressor. It is just perfect for my home compressor though. I would recommend a Bauer since you have easy access to parts and availability.

Please PLEASE put a CO meter on your compressor inline so it shuts off automatically should an event happen. We had a close call with CO poisoning and it IS a real threat. All things considered it is cheap insurance.

Nuvair - CO Alarm Analyzers
 
Mark

It was just as a kick off to explore some better options and alternatives before you tie yourself in with the local suppliers and a brand. But for a small dive shop setting up in a remote area with there first compressor compressor, the rules of engagement are as follows: There are twenty rules. We make them up as we go along, here are six.

First rule: That the compressor you buy will never be as big as the compressor you need.

Second rule: That the size of HP bottle bank, will never grow or be ever as big as you need.

Third Rule: The compressor will be “down” for longer than you think. more often than you anticipate, at a time when you least expect, at moments you can least afford, and the power will be down just after you've finished

Forth Rule: You will never have enough spare compressor parts on hand, and you will never invest enough money to stock them, you can always expect that DHL UPS and Fed Ex will make a good living getting you out of this jam each and every time.

Fifth Rule: When buying new: Always do the free serve maintenance course. Never buy a new compressor without doing the service course, its free (if you negotiate hard enough)

Sixth Rule: Never ever trust your PADI divemaster Cv when he/she tell you there fully qualified compressor service specialty qualifications are “no problem” and never allow your investment to be stripped down with the parts left littered across the pump room floor.
Or if there only tool box consists of an adjustable spanner (wrench) bent screwdriver and a hammer with a box of assorted rusting Allen keys together with an assortment of rubber mouthpieces and tie wraps. Beware you have been warned. Iain Middlebrook
 
Hi Iain

Thanks for the info , Luckliy I will be on site most of the time ,and a Padi/TDI instructor also a mechanical engineer - so hopefully can deal with many problems .
when stripping down anything , 1st rule is white towel down to catch anything that rolls away - never strip anything on the compressor room floor - though i understand many people will . i always had a nice shadow tool board and everything organised correctly . have serviced 1000's of regs, Tanks, BCD's, etc and never a problem .

Anyway back to the main problem -
How about any options i will need Assume I will get a Bauer or coltrisub at this stage (unless i can find something better available there but as i understand 99% dive shops use one of these) - how about the Optional extra's for a Humid enviroment ?
do you think necessary - all or just filter or extra seperator (as mentioned in beginning)

Hi Peter - yes thanks for that info , CO meter I think the petrol compressors we are looking at come with them now as standard

Thanks Mark
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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