need advice on regulator for beginner, Monterey, CA area

[tooez]

ok, I'll get regulator first then. Any other model I should be looking at other than Titan?

 

[rivers]

ok, I'll get regulator first then. Any other model I should be looking at other than Titan?

\

Titan is a good reg. Breathes fine. easy to get serviced.

 

[Agility]

How did people do these type of dives before computers became popular?

I did not dive then but I heard they just went down and when the regulator startet to breath hard they opened their J-valve and surfaced.

Nobody is taught to use logarithm tables and a sliderule any more at school because pocket calculators are readily available.
A computer puts the information aout depth and time in one place whereas using a depthgauge and a watch does not. And if you now advocate a bottom timer, I do not see the advantage over a divecomputer for recreational diving.
Additionally a divecomputer will keep track of your nitrogen loading and NDL for you.

Tables are a tool the same as a divecomputer is, for me the DC is the better tool for recreational diving. It might be different for you.

 

[Ricky B]

The OP has requested advice on which regulator to buy, and after considering the arguments about buying a dive computer first, has decided to pursue the original question of which regulator to buy. Let's keep the thread on track and honor the OP's request.

 

[ams511]

ok, I'll get regulator first then. Any other model I should be looking at other than Titan?

If you are looking for a deal, I have seen inexpensive Hollis closeouts. If you are not familiar with the brand Hollis is Oceanic's technical line. It can be serviced at any Oceanic deal.


Another deal I like is the Apeks ATX-40 package. You can also find it here. Apeks is Aqua Lung's technical line. It can be serviced at any Aqua Lung dealer.

---------- Post added April 16th, 2014 at 01:43 AM ----------

I did not dive then but I heard they just went down and when the regulator started to breath hard they opened their J-valve and surfaced.

The equipment of diving has changed over time but the actual physics have not. If you look at a book on diving from the 1960s you will be surprised how similar it is to a modern book.

 

[halocline]

The titan is a perennial best buy in regulators. I believe that the LX model has a barrel poppet balanced 2nd stage, IMO it's probably worth spending a bit extra to get that 2nd stage.

Regarding the order of gear purchase, I would start with a great fitting wetsuit (or drysuit) that offers the appropriate protection for the environments you will be diving in the most. This will make the most dramatic impact on your dive comfort and enjoyment. There are all sorts of regulators around, and they all basically do the same thing, and the vast majority do it acceptably well. But an exposure suit needs to fit you precisely. If you dive with a less-than-excellent regulator and your work of breathing is a bit high, it's not going to ruin your enjoyment, but try some fairly cold water without the right suit and you'll be miserable. At least you won't have to worry about DCS, because you'll be out of the water in a few minutes shivering.

Here's my opinion about new divers and computers; I think they can be useful training tools. You don't need one, but you do need to know and frequently monitor depth and time. It's worth having a back-up timing device, because dive time is very important to keep track of. So, you are either looking at a watch- a reliable one- and an analog depth gauge, or a simple dive computer, and I don't think the computer is going to cost much more. What you definitely do NOT need is one of the absurd feature-laden-heart-monitor-post-to-twitter-wireless-air-integrated-amf/fm/cassette-leather-seats models that dive shops LOVE to sell. Just think of the profit margin on a $1500 dive computer.

You should be able to find a simple wrist mount dive computer for about $200 and it will provide ALL the dive data you need, and give you an audible ascent rate alarm, which can help to train you to control your ascents. Rapid ascent is likely among the most common dangerous dive behavior among new divers.

Most importantly, don't fall into the trap of spending a fortune on dive gear just because you're excited about starting a new hobby. Have fun!

 

[scubastingray]

If you are looking for a deal, I have seen inexpensive Hollis closeouts. If you are not familiar with the brand Hollis is Oceanic's technical line. It can be serviced at any Oceanic deal.

I'll second the DC3-212. I have one of those for my single tank setup, and it is an awesome regulator. Breathes incredibly well and is environmentally sealed.
edit: It appears DRIS doesnt have yoke in stock, so if you want yoke check out scubatoys, diveaddicts, etc. I know DA has yoke in stock.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

The titan is a perennial best buy in regulators. I believe that the LX model has a barrel poppet balanced 2nd stage, IMO it's probably worth spending a bit extra to get that 2nd stage.

Regarding the order of gear purchase, I would start with a great fitting wetsuit (or drysuit) that offers the appropriate protection for the environments you will be diving in the most. This will make the most dramatic impact on your dive comfort and enjoyment. There are all sorts of regulators around, and they all basically do the same thing, and the vast majority do it acceptably well. But an exposure suit needs to fit you precisely. If you dive with a less-than-excellent regulator and your work of breathing is a bit high, it's not going to ruin your enjoyment, but try some fairly cold water without the right suit and you'll be miserable. At least you won't have to worry about DCS, because you'll be out of the water in a few minutes shivering.

Here's my opinion about new divers and computers; I think they can be useful training tools. You don't need one, but you do need to know and frequently monitor depth and time. It's worth having a back-up timing device, because dive time is very important to keep track of. So, you are either looking at a watch- a reliable one- and an analog depth gauge, or a simple dive computer, and I don't think the computer is going to cost much more. What you definitely do NOT need is one of the absurd feature-laden-heart-monitor-post-to-twitter-wireless-air-integrated-amf/fm/cassette-leather-seats models that dive shops LOVE to sell. Just think of the profit margin on a $1500 dive computer.

You should be able to find a simple wrist mount dive computer for about $200 and it will provide ALL the dive data you need, and give you an audible ascent rate alarm, which can help to train you to control your ascents. Rapid ascent is likely among the most common dangerous dive behavior among new divers.

Most importantly, don't fall into the trap of spending a fortune on dive gear just because you're excited about starting a new hobby. Have fun!

Leisure Pro has wrist mounted Mares Pucks for sale for around $159.00 maybe less if you catch it on sale.
It does air /nitrox, has gauge mode, and user replaceable batteries. It's about as basic and no frills as it gets.
By the time you buy a depth gauge and some sort of timing device it's going to be close to that.
Unless you find an old console that has a SPG, Depth, and compass at a garage sale for $5 and already have a watch, but we're trying to leave dumb luck out of it because nobody can count on that.
And I'm all with the keeping spending under control.
Less is more.
Don't get caught up in the "gotta have" gear trap.

 

[Ricky B]

give you an audible ascent rate alarm, which can help to train you to control your ascents. Rapid ascent is likely among the most common dangerous dive behavior among new divers.

:thumbs_up::thumbs_up::thumbs_up:

I had no idea how fast my ascents were until I started using a dive computer. It turns out that 30 fpm is actually quite slow. The computer was a good training device for me.