Need advice on choosing new strobe

[bvanant]

I have tested both (on land) pretty carefully (with flash meters and spot meters and a variety of test gear from our optics lab. In my hands, on land the GN of the D1 is about 30-31 without diffuser and the GN of the Z240 is about 23-24 or so. If you need a bright light to shoot sun balls or such the D1 is indeed brighter. Measuring beam angle is a very difficult process, you need small photo detectors that can be spaced along a line and you have to take into account the actual shape of the flash tube. The Inon has two tubes in a T configuration and the D1 has two tubes but they are close together and parallel. In my tests at least the beam angle of the D1 without diffuser (1/e power) is about 85 degrees and the Inon (1/e) is about 95 degrees. Take these beam angles with a big grain of salt, I have no idea how either Inon or S&S measure or spec beam angle. In any case with diffusers I see GN going down by about a stop to stop and a quarter for each flash.
My take shooting macro mostly (OK, only) is that the D1 is a bit (tiny bit) brighter at the same beam diameter (but the beam shapes are different) so Jack is right but not a full stop brighter in my hands. On the good side of the ledger the D1 is easier to use (one way dials and easier to turn with gloves in the cold). On the bad side of the ledger the D1 is rather suspect from a durability/technical competence standpoint, the well-known battery indicator issue is still around occasionally and the long-term durability of the Z240 is well known. The D1 is a bit cheaper as well but over the course of the life of the strobe the average price per flash will be very very similar. I really don't think (except for the case of sun balls at very high sync speed and small aperture) that there are any photos that one strobe can take that the other can't take equally as well.

Bill

 

[KeithG]

What about cabling requirements for a different flash? Any opinions?

Some (many?) strobes are deigned to work without a fibre optic cable. Others not so much. The need for a cable will add cost and complexity to the solution. The AF35 does not appear to Need a cable.

---------- Post added April 18th, 2014 at 10:13 PM ----------

I think you will also need to consider the cost of a tray and arm system?

---------- Post added April 18th, 2014 at 10:16 PM ----------

P.s. I once bought an old used s&s motormarine 35m system simply to get a cheap tray and arm. I think they are stashed in a cupboard somewhere now...

 

[Interceptor121]

Bill as always is correct and there is not much in it between the two strobes

However the point was the best strobe for the camera of the op Canon S120 having shot both sea and sea and inon with the S series I can recommend the Inon D2000
The S120 does not need the power of the YS-D1 or the Z240 will be fine with the YS-01 or D2000 but the D2000 with the external auto mode has an edge

As Canon camera in Manual mode use no pre-flash and have only TTL in P,A,T modes (useless) there is no benefit getting the YS-01 over the YS-02 as you shoot the strobe in manual all times. The D2000 instead has TTL through the external auto mode and from what I have experienced this works very well indeed

 

[NautilusCairns]

If you want compact then the Inon S2000 is worth considering. However as Interceptor says you will need to use the strobe in manual if you want to shoot with the camera in manual. Having the S2000 on sTTL is OK if shooting in Av or Tv.

 

[Hatul]

Thanks for all the advice and info. I'm also in the situation where I want to buy once in the event that I upgrade my camera, as the strobes are expensive.

The other issue is to choose the tray and arm make for the strobe. I've only experience with the Loc-Line style, which has the advantage of easily re-aiming under water, but is somewhat less stable especially on land,and fills up with water. Can you offer advice here as well please.

 

[KeithG]

Loc line is fine for very light lights that are neutrally buoyant. I had them on an amphibico video rig back in the old days. 80% of the time they were fine. 20% they were useless. A little bit of current or positioning the light far away horizontally never worked as the arm could not support the weight / drag.

I use s&s ball arm system. Ucls is also good (or better?) Make sure you get a set with orings on the balls. These systems can be very expensive. But they work.

I do not clamp mine tight, on land they flop a bit, but work great underwater. Too tight means you need to loosen to adjust. I just push the arm where I want it. It moves and then stays.

 

[Interceptor121]

You can use locline 3/4" to hold a strobe not the smaller 1/2" as those are too weak. 3/4" are pretty stiff and anyway not as flexible or precise. So ball and clamp is the way forward. Depending on which housing you have you will need floats or even a float arm

 

[Hatul]

Having read all the advice I decided to buy one Inon Z240 strobe (type 4) and the Ikelite tray with double handles:

Ikelite | Dual Tray and Handles for Compact Digital Housings

The tray-handle combination takes the quick removable balls which is one reason I chose it. It will be used with the S120 camera in an Ikelite housing.

I'll be getting a ball type arm system, likely the i-Das system:
Manufacturer :: I-DAS

unless you have other advice. My question now is exactly what size arms do you recommend I get to hold the strobe on the left size and a focus light on the right?

Adam

Addendum: Does anyone have an opinion on the stainless steel arms system from Beneath The Surface?
Home - Beneath the Surface - Online

This is the brand one of the local shops here stocks.