Need a light, but on a budget

[divad]

The Photon Torpedo with the LED upgrade is a very nice light, doesn't use peculiar batteries, and is very bright and focused. You can sometimes pick up used PTs or Scouts with the original bulbs for fairly cheap (we paid $50 for ours) and then buy the UK SL4 eLED light and transfer the module, which gives you a real nice light for about $120.

QUOTE]



What she said, but you can just use the Sl4eLed for around sixty to seventy bucks. It has the same UK bulb assembly as the Proton, Scout, and Salvo with a little more power. I've used one as a primary light in clear water.

 

[TSandM]

The downside of the SL4 eLED light is that it's switched, and switches do fail; it also has a less optimal attachment setup, for my money. That's why we use the converted Scouts and PT.

 

[Puffer Fish]

The downside of the SL4 eLED light is that it's switched, and switches do fail; it also has a less optimal attachment setup, for my money. That's why we use the converted Scouts and PT.

I would rank switching methods in the following order:

1. magnetic switching... nothing to leak.

2. switches.. yes they will eventually leak, but the stress on the Oring(s) are minimal.

3. Push buttons - far more movement against the o-ring, in the wrong way.

4. Twist on -twist off. The amount of abrasion against the orings, the openning and closing... the exposure to contaminates has to make this method the absolute worst

I am missing so other switch method???

 

[Plumb bob]

Another vote for the lights that Packhorse does, I've used the two I have on about 60 dives now without a problem and they give 10W HIDs a run for sure..

I'm yet to find another light of a comparable size and output.

 

[Packhorse]

I would rank switching methods in the following order:

1. magnetic switching... nothing to leak.

2. switches.. yes they will eventually leak, but the stress on the Oring(s) are minimal.

3. Push buttons - far more movement against the o-ring, in the wrong way.

4. Twist on -twist off. The amount of abrasion against the orings, the openning and closing... the exposure to contaminates has to make this method the absolute worst

I am missing so other switch method???

You missed rotating switchs like the Sartec ones that have O rings on the shaft to protect from leaks.

I think twist on twist off switch deserve to be higher up your list. Maybe 2nd.
Sure there is abrasion of Orings but thats what silicon grease is for. Sure you can get contaminants on the O rings. But if you have 3 it helps eliminate the problem. Most lights will depend on O rings to seal and many of these are exposed when you change batteries.

O rings can easily be inspected and changed. Very cheap too.
Thanks Plumb Bob. For the record PB is a mate of mine but if didnt like the IST's Im sure he would tell you all.

 

[Hatul]

If someone's worried about the minor difference in price between good C-cell batteries and CR123A batteries, maybe scuba diving isn't the right sport for them.

it seems the CR123 battery has a wide range of capacities:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=67078

a median from the list is about 1200mAh at 3 volts,
a AA rechargeable NiMH has 2000 mAh at 1.2 volts, and
a C cell NiMH has 4500 mAh at 1.2 volts

The alkaline versions do better; a AA alkaline holds about 2400 mAh at 1.5volts
http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/l91.pdf#search="AA site:energizer.com"

thus the energy in a CR123 is somewhere between an AA cell and C cell in energy capacity (3/1.2*1200 = 3000 mAh)
So in cost comparison CR123 with a C cell is no quite fair as the C holds more energy.

Furthermore AA cells are readily substituted with rechargeable (NiMh), whereas CR123 are not. There is more energy in 4 AA NiMh batteries than in two CR123's (5*1200 vs 6*1200) in a much more economical and ecological package. Also CR123's are more difficult to find in stores, which means you have to carry plenty of your own supplies when you travel.

The big advantage of the Li cell is long shelf life (10 years), which may be of value to police and military who store large numbers of batteries and flashlights over long time, but is of no advantage to the diver.

Adam

 

[Hatul]

Any ideas on the DL3 light from XSScuba:

XS Scuba LED Lights

Adam

 

[divad]

The downside of the SL4 eLED light is that it's switched, and switches do fail; it also has a less optimal attachment setup, for my money. That's why we use the converted Scouts and PT.

I use a converted Abyssmal light, mostly because it's alummmminum (which disipates heat well), but he's trying to save money for now and the SL4eLED is good bang for the buck as it has the same bulb assembly used in several more expensive lights. He can convert later. It's also possible to leave the switch on and just twist the bezel.

 

[jtivat]

I would rank switching methods in the following order:

1. magnetic switching... nothing to leak.

2. switches.. yes they will eventually leak, but the stress on the Oring(s) are minimal.

3. Push buttons - far more movement against the o-ring, in the wrong way.

4. Twist on -twist off. The amount of abrasion against the orings, the openning and closing... the exposure to contaminates has to make this method the absolute worst

I am missing so other switch method???

Funny I have seen all of those fail except #4 I have never heard of a Photon or Rat failing or flooding.

 

[tgsmith]

A little bit of care with your gear goes a long way. Before every day of diving, I will wipe down the threads and O-rings of my Salvo 12w led(a twist head canister light), UK Q40 led, OMS Vega and OMS headlamp and apply a coat of silicone oil(seal-saver, actually). Yes, particulate does get in there, but with these few minutes of maintenance you shouldn't have a problem with twist-lights.

If you're arguing over the reliability between a quality magnetic switch and a quality twist light, then you need to get back to work or find ANOTHER hobby to help fill your void. They've both proven to be reliable, real-world use says so, your opinion doesn't effect that, get over it.

Even with all the science talk over energy in AA's vs CR123's, OK, touche. But your not getting a light as small as a Vega to put out as much light for as long in such a small package. Not really a deciding factor, but the size of the vega is awesome for how well it performs. Just thought I'd throw that out there that you're kind of comparing apples to oranges. CR123's are incredibly small......no **** they don't store as much energy. And whats the cost of 4(that's 2 more than 2) NiMH AA batteries compared to 2 CR123's? Legit question, I honestly have never even seen NiMH AA's for sale. My 1550mah CR123's cost me 1.43 per battery.......

What about those e2 Lithium energizer AA's? What would happen if I put those in my Q40 LED?