My Research Notes from Planning Galapagos Trip

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drrich2: What an amazing resource for people to use! Just an incredible collection of information. My LDS and I spent two days at DEMA trying to decide on the boat and time of year for the shop's 2022 trip to Galapagos. I had done the initial research before we went. At the end of the two days we had massive headaches and were no closer to a decision. Trying to weigh the shop's customers' desires with price proved challenging. However, we finally decided on the Calipso for January 2022. We had just come back from the 13 day Explore Baja trip with the Rocio del Mar and spent a day snorkeling with whalesharks, so seeing them was not our top priority. Hence we chose warmer water. Trying to determine when was the best time for hammerhead viewing was also hard based on conflicting advice. Sure wish we had your research before we went.
Thanks again for what many people will find to be the definitive treatise on scuba diving in Galapagos.

Rob
 
Yikes! Amazing amount of information. Thanks!

My wife and I have been to Galapagos twice (going again this coming April - I hope the hammers will be there!!), Malpelo once, Cocos twice, and Socorro three times. They are all different and all pretty amazing IMO. Socorro is the most "beginner friendly", but even that can be challenging, especially at Roco Partida so I'd certainly recommend a minimum of 50-100 dives before going there. The other destinations can be even more challenging. Here's a very quick summary:

Galapagos November - We "only" saw two whale sharks, but every dive was fantastic. There was a tornado of activity on almost every dive, with various sharks, turtles, sea lions, tuna, tropical fish, etc, It just never seemed to end. On one dive, I was drifting in the blue off of Darwin when a school of tuna came in and darkened the sky. I was in the middle of them as they whizzed by, and all I could see top to bottom and 360 degrees was tuna. Also, experienced wicked current - on one dive we were all blown into the blue and surfaced more than a mile away. We also experienced the roughest seas ever in more than 30 liveaboards throughout the world.

Galapagos August - Saw 11 whale sharks! Saw mola mola, saw everything above including tuna, but in a school not quite as large.

Malpelo July - Middle of nowhere! If you get into trouble, you are SOL. NOT for beginners. You are at the mercy of the boat crew so book with a proven outfit. We saw whale sharks every day, hammerheads, eagle rays in formation, massive schools of jacks and creole fish. And schools of silkies - the only place where we have seen schools that large - hundreds of them

Socorro - February twice and March once. First time we went, the Solmar V was the only boat there. Second time, there were more boats, the third time (March 2019), there were 6 boats at Roco Partida! We still had great diving, but I'm afraid the place is going to be destroyed if they don't limit the boats. We had 45 minute limits on dives and we'd jump in just as the prior group was leaving so there are divers on the same site constantly for 8 hours each day! It's not what is used to be, but the manta and dolphin encounters are like nowhere else. We saw sharks too, but not anything like we've seen elsewhere. Socorro is for Manta and dolphins. You can see whale sharks, humpbacks, bait balls, and big schools of hammers, but those are hit or miss. I really hope this amazing place doesn't get destroyed, but even more boats are heading there!

Cocos - May and October. I can't really say that the conditions or life were different based on our two times there (and the trips were 10 years apart). The last time we went was in 2010. The tigers were there unlike the first time. The water was rough to the point were more then half the boat was sea sick and didn't do much diving. My wife and I did every dive and didn't think it was that rough. Diving was great both trips, but we saw many more hammer heads on our first trip. We saw one whale shark on the 2nd trip but none on the first. The night dives are just crazy, but I don't think they are doing them anymore, and frankly, I don't think I would do them again given the tiger issues they have had.

BTW, the whale shark in my avatar wasn't from any of the above trips. I shot that in the Sea of Cortez.
 
Don't recall mentioning it before, but worth knowing - From an OnTheGoTours.com page -
"Is tap water safe to drink on the Galapagos Islands?
The tap water on the Galapagos Islands is not safe to drink so only drink bottled water, which is readily available on board cruise boats. It's wise to avoid ice cubes in drinks, and salads, which may have been washed in unhygienic water."

I Googled the matter because yesterday I started Cipro by my family Doctor after a Bio Fire rapid test showed entero invasive E. coli - a test done because I've had diarrhea since I was on San Cristobal (where I drank water from a pitcher in a hotel room), and while I also think I'd just picked up one of those '24 hour G.I. bugs' at work on top of it, and can't prove when I got infected with whatever, it had me concerned. Seem to be a good deal better already today. Go, Cipro!
 
Hi Dr Rich,

Sorry I am a bit late to the table on this but after a pretty wild ride in these last few months of COVID 19, it is only on Easter Monday that I have found time to check out some of the posts I had missed.

Thank you sir for your incredibly informative and comprehensive posts. It’s almost a thesis for what, where, when, and how to dive these destinations and I appreciate the huge amount of time and energy you have taken to compile the info – I have been at it for 34 years and have never seen all this put so succinctly in one place – bravo.

I have dived extensively in Galapagos, Cocos and Malpelo, and they are all at the top of the world class mega big animal destinations, but I agree that conditions at Malpelo can be the most challenging of all, although the northern islands of Darwin and Wolf do have their moments too. Fortunately with technology such EPIRBS (Nautilus Lifelines), we hope that we can avoid ever having a situation of losing a diver in these remote places, so although pretty well all the boats now supply these as standard equipment, it is always important to reconfirm they have them available on board or bring your own.

I think you mentioned it briefly, but in all these destinations, the liveaboards dive basically the same sites but Galapagos is slightly different as each boat has its own distinct itinerary, and some dive different islands than others and even dive different islands according to the season. The GNP design their itineraries so that the fewest number of boats will be diving any site at one time – usually no more than 2. In their regular 7 nights schedules, the only boat that spends 4 full dive days at the Northern Islands of Darwin & Wolf is the HUMBOLDT EXPLORER, while the other boats spend 3 days D&W and AGGRESSOR spends 3 days D&W from June to December and from January to May spends only 2 days up north and an additional day at Cabo Marshall.

This is all important as if one has certain expectations of what you will see - if you have dream of spending as much time as possible at Darwin & Wolf, then the HUMBOLDT EXPLORER might be your first choice, however if your dream includes Mola Mola and marine Iguana, then she does not include those in her itinerary. Some boats start from San Cristobal and others from Baltra and this may affect the itinerary. Only one boat the CALIPSO provides WiFi throughout the voyage and for some people that is important to stay in touch.

Rates vary from AQUA at $4295, to AGGRESSOR at $6595 and SKY $6805, and then those inbetween, with some including alcohol and nitrox, others this is extra. As you pointed out, there are discounted rates offered all year round although the season from December thru June tends to be less busy and thus more chance of discounts offered.

It’s a complex puzzle but you have done much to simplify it and I hope that we can be of further assistance from there forward.
 
drrich2...Wow. Good job. I'm sure that will be very helpful for many people. Please allow me to update my own information. As many know, for 10 years before I took on the start up Calipso, I had a niche agency, Dive The Galapagos. For most of those years, I lived in Ecuador, then returned to the US. Unlike others, I focused only on Galapagos, no other destination.

I am no longer with Calipso. Just before COVID hit, I quit. I'm happy to share or answer questions in a PM.
 
Flights to the Galapagos are out of Guayaquil airport. If you fly into Quito, next stop will be Guayaquil before the Galapagos.
Quito > Guayaquil > Galapagos

Quito airport is plagued with fog, and often you will divert to Guayaquil. The next day you'll fly back to Quito. If you are going to the Galapagos, then you'll fly back to Quayaquil before heading off the Galapagos. It will look like this:
Quito > divert to Guayaquil > Quito > Guayaqil > Galapagos
 
Flights to the Galapagos are out of Guayaquil airport. If you fly into Quito, next stop will be Guayaquil before the Galapagos.
Quito > Guayaquil > Galapagos

Quito airport is plagued with fog, and often you will divert to Guayaquil. The next day you'll fly back to Quito. If you are going to the Galapagos, then you'll fly back to Quayaquil before heading off the Galapagos. It will look like this:
Quito > divert to Guayaquil > Quito > Guayaqil > Galapagos

Back in 2016, I managed to fly Houston > Quito > Galapagos > Quito > Houston. That may not be the case now, I guess.

How is diving in Galapagos in December?
 
Airline schedules change. Moral of the story:
Avoid flying into Quito because of fog
Check whether or not you have to through Guayaquil anyway
 
the main reason for flying via Quito is if you plan to extend your stay there to visit the city or do land options to the Amazon or mountains. All the Galapagos flights are currently changing as some airlines have declared chapter 11 and others have reduced their frequency. Here are what we hope will operate in August, along with new rules for entry to Galapagos. You can contact us if you have other questions.

LATAM does not fly every day right now. They are on a reduced schedule. IN August they fly Aug 3,7,11,17,21,25, 27,31. Avianca flies 9, 16, 23 and 30. One week is San Cristobal and the next is Baltra. These are the CONFIRMED flights the government has published. They will likely be no changes or additional flights in August but may change again in September. We have a trip on HUMBOLDT originally scheduled for Aug 24-31 which we have now changed to Aug 27-Sept 3 dates with LATAM as they allow 7 nights and currently LATAM is the most reliable airline with the most flights.

We have trips in Sep/Oct/Nov and dates might be subject to change while the airlines get themselves sorted out. One does require to be in Quito or Guayaquil for 2 nights on arrival as they require you do a PCR test on arrival and quarantine for 24 hours in a hotel until test results are ready.

Visitors to Ecuador, including the Galapagos Islands, must present a negative polymerase chain reaction (PCR) test for Covid-19, taken up to 10 days prior to departure in their country of origin. ON arrival in Quito or Guayaquil they must do another PCR test at the arrival airport and go immediately to their hotel Results will be available within 24 hours of the test. 2 nights in hotel are required. With the negative PCR result from the test in Ecuador they can travel to Galapagos with a letter from the company running the cruise or hotel in Galapagos.

Please don't hesitate to contact me if you have questions or want to book something in GPS.

Dominick Macan
Dive Advice Travel
dom@diveadvice.com
www.diveadvice.com
Tel: +33 492 94 02 99 (France)
SKYPE: adventuredom
http://www.diveadvice.com/liveaboard-availability … for up-to-date liveaboard availability worldwide
"In Partnership with Amazing Adventures Travel of Mill Valley, California"
 

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