MY PORTS ARE FALLING OFF! ..help super needed...

[M DeM]

Hi folks-

I decided to buy my first DSLR housing used. The guy that sold them to me has so far been helpful, but is currently somewhere without wifi.

So I'm trying to figure out my issue with the Subal for the 7D Mark I. Yes, I've contacted Subal, and though they've been polite, they've also told me that the one person who can help me is on vacation --you guessed it-- without wifi.

Basically, I feel like I'm missing something when it comes to putting the ports on, because mine aren't locking into place... and in one case, is falling straight off the housing. I did a pool test with the dome port without any camera in the housing. The tissues in the front port area got wet. The flat port? Oh that just plain fell off.

It's way easier for me to just show you rather than explain it. Can someone spot whatever it is that I'm doing incorrectly?

 

[Tienuts]

There isn't a port 'lock' on that housing, as crazy as it sounds. Subal didn't begin introducing locking mechanisms on their housings until around 2012. If that's a 7D1, it's probably circa 2009-2010.

That being said, this is fine, at least from what I saw in your video on the dome port. Underwater, the water pressure keeps it from rotating. Just make sure you check it's alignment before jumping in, and whatever you do, DO NOT let it soak unattended in a rinse tub. (I was the service manager for Reef Photo, and this is the number 1 cause of floods.)

For the flat port, it looks like you didn't install it correctly. The port needs to be installed with the subal logo 90 degrees counter clockwise, (facing you) and then rotated until the subal logo is straight up. It appears as though yours didn't rotate like that. Now that could be because it wasn't pressed in all the way, or the lugs are damaged.

Edit: I watched your video several times, and it really looks like you didn't seat the flat port properly. Follow the directions I wrote above, start with the Subal logo towards the shutter release, press in firmly, rotate 90 clockwise.

Tony

 

[M DeM]

There isn't a port 'lock' on that housing, as crazy as it sounds. Subal didn't begin introducing locking mechanisms on their housings until around 2012. If that's a 7D1, it's probably circa 2009-2010.

That being said, this is fine, at least from what I saw in your video on the dome port. Underwater, the water pressure keeps it from rotating. Just make sure you check it's alignment before jumping in, and whatever you do, DO NOT let it soak unattended in a rinse tub. (I was the service manager for Reef Photo, and this is the number 1 cause of floods.)

For the flat port, it looks like you didn't install it correctly. The port needs to be installed with the subal logo 90 degrees counter clockwise, (facing you) and then rotated until the subal logo is straight up. It appears as though yours didn't rotate like that. Now that could be because it wasn't pressed in all the way, or the lugs are damaged.

Edit: I watched your video several times, and it really looks like you didn't seat the flat port properly. Follow the directions I wrote above, start with the Subal logo towards the shutter release, press in firmly, rotate 90 clockwise.

Tony

This is very, very helpful! Thank you!

When I took the dome port into the pool and it leaked a little, but I was only like 8 feet down, *and* I hadn't cleaned it or anything before hand, and didn't know how important that was.

So when I bring it onto the boat and everyone's got it in that dunk tank.... I'm guessing that's a no-go for me? Should I just dunk it for 5 minutes so I don't have condensation issues?

Thank you so much. I showed it to folks at the pool that night and they all said "oh, there's supposed to be something to lock it in place" but none of them had subals.

One guy said to me "You know, before you go on your trip, you should have it serviced. Send it to the folks at Reef Photo -- they really know what they're doing."

Apparently so!

 

[M DeM]

Oh, another thing.... I don't suppose you could tell me what this is.... It looks very much like it's supposed to plug into something, but since it doesn't, is this supposed to be for the leak alarm?

 

[Tienuts]

This is very, very helpful! Thank you!

When I took the dome port into the pool and it leaked a little, but I was only like 8 feet down, *and* I hadn't cleaned it or anything before hand, and didn't know how important that was.

So when I bring it onto the boat and everyone's got it in that dunk tank.... I'm guessing that's a no-go for me? Should I just dunk it for 5 minutes so I don't have condensation issues?

Thank you so much. I showed it to folks at the pool that night and they all said "oh, there's supposed to be something to lock it in place" but none of them had subals.

One guy said to me "You know, before you go on your trip, you should have it serviced. Send it to the folks at Reef Photo -- they really know what they're doing."

Apparently so!

The Reef Photo service guys are outstanding. I was just the guy who told them what to do ;-)

For any housing - clean and inspect each o-ring like your camera's life depends on it. It does. No hair or dirt allowed. Also check to make sure the o-ring is free from cuts or abrasions. This will be what causes a flood. It's not a bad idea to do your first dive at any destination with the camera not in the housing. Also if you travel by air, do not fly with the housing assembled - the pressure differential at altitude will pop your dome or flat glass right out of the port frame. Also don't fly with the camera on the tray in the housing. Those rails the tray slides on can easily be bent, and if they do get bent, none of the controls will line up to the camera.

The rinse tank should only be used to rinse salt water off your housing. Give it a dunk after your dive and take it out. Once back in your room, give it a good rinsing or soaking. On a side note, I wrote a blog posting once where I measured the salinity of various rinse tanks at various dive boats and docks in Fort Lauderdale. With no water changes and evaporation - some of these were actually more salty than the ocean!

For condensation, this is always about how you assemble it. Some people use desiccant packets, but that's not needed and can also cause floods if they impinge upon an o-ring. The trick is to make sure there's no humidity in the housing, which is accomplished by assembling it in the cold, dry air conditioned room, not outside.

The little plug looking thing is your leak alarm. It's very low-tech. Saltwater hits those prongs and closes the circuit, which then makes your alarm light flash.

Hope this helps.
Tony

 

[chris kippax]

Hi Mdem
Is this your first underwater housing?
If so I think it may be best for you to get some instruction prior to use. Are any underwater photography courses available in your area. If not do you know any experienced photographers that can help you set up your rig and give you some pointers.
Might save you some money and heartache

 

[M DeM]

The Reef Photo service guys are outstanding. I was just the guy who told them what to do ;-)

For any housing - clean and inspect each o-ring like your camera's life depends on it. It does. No hair or dirt allowed. Also check to make sure the o-ring is free from cuts or abrasions. This will be what causes a flood. It's not a bad idea to do your first dive at any destination with the camera not in the housing. Also if you travel by air, do not fly with the housing assembled - the pressure differential at altitude will pop your dome or flat glass right out of the port frame. Also don't fly with the camera on the tray in the housing. Those rails the tray slides on can easily be bent, and if they do get bent, none of the controls will line up to the camera.

The rinse tank should only be used to rinse salt water off your housing. Give it a dunk after your dive and take it out. Once back in your room, give it a good rinsing or soaking. On a side note, I wrote a blog posting once where I measured the salinity of various rinse tanks at various dive boats and docks in Fort Lauderdale. With no water changes and evaporation - some of these were actually more salty than the ocean!

For condensation, this is always about how you assemble it. Some people use desiccant packets, but that's not needed and can also cause floods if they impinge upon an o-ring. The trick is to make sure there's no humidity in the housing, which is accomplished by assembling it in the cold, dry air conditioned room, not outside.

The little plug looking thing is your leak alarm. It's very low-tech. Saltwater hits those prongs and closes the circuit, which then makes your alarm light flash.

Hope this helps.
Tony

HOLY CRAP - This is really important stuff to know about traveling with this gear. Why on earth isn't this stuff in Alex Mustard's book?? (If you decide to write a competing book, I will definitely pre-order it!)

 

[M DeM]

Hi Mdem
Is this your first underwater housing?
If so I think it may be best for you to get some instruction prior to use. Are any underwater photography courses available in your area. If not do you know any experienced photographers that can help you set up your rig and give you some pointers.
Might save you some money and heartache

This is my first underwater DSLR housing, yep.

I'm going on a trip organized by my LDS, and they offered the PADI UW photo course. Perfect! The instructor seemed great... until he cancelled last minute (without even telling any of us... but that's a whole other thing.)

So, I thought I'd have plenty o' time and instruction to become best buddies with my new-to-me housing. Nope.

I'll bring my Olympus TG-5, but that's only good down to 40' and no shutter-priority which is how I shoot... So I'm pretty damn bummed. The housing I bought is for my back-up body, but still-- I don't particularly care to flood my back-up, either.

edit: Oh, I did email the instructor and asked if I could buy him a beer and go over the system together.... we'll see. There's no "Reef Photo" type place in NYC where I can go. Doesn't help that it seems no one else uses Subal!

 

[Tienuts]

It's hard to compete with Alex. I think he just knows so damn much, maybe he takes for granted what he thinks is common knowledge. I haven't read his book, but I suspect it's more on the technique of shooting which he has mastered in all environments over his career.

I spent 3 years at Reef Photo, mainly receiving broken and flooded housings, as well as those in need of general service. I provided repair estimates, I ordered parts, and handed out assignments. I learned all sorts of lessons at the misfortune of others. Many people on this forum and Wetpixel received bad news from me. I can tell you the good housings from the bad, and those versions of Subal's were (still are) some of the most simple, reliable housings out there. They are the easiest by far to service, and will last a long time when properly cared for. Alan, who took my position when I left is probably more knowledgable than me, as he is current on the new systems. He's also a great photographer both UW and topside.

If I wrote a book it would be a pretty short one, and you'd probably be the only one who purchased it. During my time there, I did begin to write a rather long article on the do's and don'ts of housing ownership and use. But I never got it finished, and then I was headhunted for a new job.

I still love photo and video, and still keep up with it personally and professionally If you ever get the occasion to come to Grand Cayman, and want to know better, let me know. I occasionally do some photo clinics down here, and we could get you to expert status very quickly.

 

[M DeM]

It's hard to compete with Alex. I think he just knows so damn much, maybe he takes for granted what he thinks is common knowledge. I haven't read his book, but I suspect it's more on the technique of shooting which he has mastered in all environments over his career.

I spent 3 years at Reef Photo, mainly receiving broken and flooded housings, as well as those in need of general service. I provided repair estimates, I ordered parts, and handed out assignments. I learned all sorts of lessons at the misfortune of others. Many people on this forum and Wetpixel received bad news from me. I can tell you the good housings from the bad, and those versions of Subal's were (still are) some of the most simple, reliable housings out there. They are the easiest by far to service, and will last a long time when properly cared for. Alan, who took my position when I left is probably more knowledgable than me, as he is current on the new systems. He's also a great photographer both UW and topside.

If I wrote a book it would be a pretty short one, and you'd probably be the only one who purchased it. During my time there, I did begin to write a rather long article on the do's and don'ts of housing ownership and use. But I never got it finished, and then I was headhunted for a new job.

I still love photo and video, and still keep up with it personally and professionally If you ever get the occasion to come to Grand Cayman, and want to know better, let me know. I occasionally do some photo clinics down here, and we could get you to expert status very quickly.

That'd be great! I did go to Grand Cayman last year and it was so wonderful and I definitely want to go back and do a photo workshop! Let the board know when you do a photo clinic or let me know if you have a newsletter sign up!