MX5II Camera

[andrea31419]

God Bless America! Everything is so expensive!!!! Oh well, I better start saving my pennies...thanks.

A.

 

[norcaldiver]

I'm not that big on the mx10 either. The strobe is stationary. It's offset, but it blasts straight forward. I can't see how it's all that much better. For teh same price as teh mx5, the Sealife reefmaster can be had. It has a truely flexable arm, can be set up with dual stobes, etc. I have actaully seen some really nice pics from a couple of people with the reefmaster.

 

[gbundersea]

Leisure-Pro's price on the MX-10/YS-40A kit is $389.95. Add the $199.95 cost of the MXTENDER, and you're at almost $600.00 total. For only $50.00 more, you can get the Motormarine II-EX/YS-60 system, which is vastly better, with a much more powerful and truly separate strobe.

Others on the board can give you info about the comparably-priced digital setups, I'm sure.

 

[andrea31419]

I'm looking for a good camera that's not going to cost me a small fotune. I haven't tried the Reefmaster...tell me more...pleeease...thx.

A.

 

[Dee]

The MX-10 camera itself is a better choice than the MX-5 but you still have the same fixed strobe problem with backscatter that you have with the MX-5. In my honest opinion, if you can afford the MX-10 set-up, go digital. You'll never totally eliminate backscatter but you can greatly reduce it!

As I mentioned earlier, Canon's Elph series are getting alot of attention for entry level digital. My first choice is always Olympus but I'm biased! You can get a 3mp camera and Oly PT-XX case for about what an MX-10 set-up will cost. You don't need a strobe to start with because the Oly lenses are more light sensitive, making shots in ambient light more desireable. You can always add an external strobe later.

Another advantage of digital is you no longer have to buy film and pay for the deveroping and printing. Getting instant feedback to tell if your shot is good or not, you won't have to throw away alot of those prints you just paid for! A few memory cards are lots cheaper than film, processing and printing.

 

[andrea31419]

Okay...I've got some researching to do on these setups...especially before I drop a bunch of buck...but I want it to be a good setup and one that will last.

Thanks to you all.

Andrea

 

[Diver ABC]

Hi Andrea,

I bought this camera (without YS 20 at first) without thinking too much about U/W photography. As you might know from my name, newbie, abc...etc.

Developing the films after taking snapshots in couple dives, I was totally disappointed. It did not work at all, most of the pictures were blurred by backscatters. (As expected by experts here)

Then, I got the YS 20 strobe for MX 5II too. I would say if it improved a lot regarding backscatters. You can even use one of your arm as strobe arm. It fires simultaneously with the internal flash. But you have to block the internal to avoid it from generating backscatters. The cliper has to be added/modified by the official dealer.

But as personal opinion, do not invest too much on MX5II. I saw a Japanese diver taking picture by P5 I think? of course with its housing and a red filter. It gave clear and light pics without flash. Then I decided go digital, coz I can watch what I got U/W. It is very important for a diver without too much knowledge about shutter and aperture settings.

 

[andrea31419]

Thanks for the reply on the MX5II, I've decided against purchasing the stobe for this cam., and like you I am going digital. I've decided on the Olympus C3020Z with the PT-010 housing.


Thanks.

Andrea

Savannah Scuba

 

[Diver ABC]

Hi Andrea,

The YS 20A I gave up may not useless at all, I found that it could synchronize with my C5050. But I need to figure out how to fix it to the housing.

 

[andrea31419]

I haven't purchased the strobe for the MX5II, I've decided to go digital.

Thanks.

A.