Musandam 2024

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Searcaigh

Seahorse Wrangler
Staff member
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Location
Dubai, UAE
# of dives
1000 - 2499
My main buddy for my past trips to Indonesia since 2022 @outofofficebrb (OOO) decided last year to come to visit me in the UAE and I managed to get a cancelation on one of the dhow trips to Musandam in mid February with Sheesa Dhows

Unlike other land border crossings to Oman from UAE, no visa is required, but a passport has to be shown. If you are a UAE resident then a UAE ID card is required and for a visitor to the UAE then an entry stamp in the passport is required (avoid the electronic entry gates). This border is controlled by UAE only and not yet by Oman police (ROP).

After a couple of dives in Fujairah, OOO and I drove up to the border at Dibba and duly crossed over after meeting the Sheesa official who had our respective paperwork and headed to the port, which is still under re-construction since at least two years. It's not as much of a mess as it was since August 2022, but it's still confusing to find the entrance, and signposting leaves a lot to be desired.

The Sheesa crew at the port are very helpful and once we unloaded the car, OOO supervised the loading of our gear to our assigned dhow while I drove out of the port to park the car and walk back.

After checking out our assigned cabin (it was one of the two at the very front), which had an ensuite shower but no head, we then proceeded to sort out our gear and analyse and label our tanks for the five dives, three on Saturday and two on Sunday. In summer there is usually a night dive too, but not in winter months.



We were first on the boat, and slowly other divers arrived, all of whom had driven over from Dubai after work, and there were a couple of familiar faces, notably Stevie from Al Boom and Diane.

The boat departed around 20:30 and we gathered for out evening meal. I feel that the dining could have been done earlier for those who arrived earlier, OOO and I were starving.



We slept well that night although I awoke at some point when we dropped anchor in one of the khors.

Diving is done from a small boat, which is towed behind the dhow. On this trip we had two small boats as three divers had their own agenda leaving 13 of us on the other boat. We were accompanied by two Sheesa staff as guides, although OOO and myself tended to fall behind the others as we were taking photos.

I had opted to shoot wide angle on Day 1, something I regretted given the number of nudis we spotted, especially on the last dive, but sunshine we did not have to light up the stunning corals of Musandam.

This is the best wide angle shot I managed.



I was also very grateful to OOO for bring over my SurfFur that I had ordered and sent to her address in the US, these coats are fantastic for keeping the wind chill from shrivelling parts of the male anatomy.



Ceratosoma trilabatum



We returned on the Sunday afternoon after five dives with all meals included for AED1,400 (USD381) and Nitrox AED75 (USD20) per tank. I could have saved some money if I brought my own tanks, but the hassle of loading and unloading doesn't really make it worth while to be honest. All fills were 31%

A strong possibility I will do at least one more trip to Musandam this year.
 
I had opted to shoot wide angle on Day 1, something I regretted given the number of nudis we spotted

It is always like that, you never have the right lens on :)
 
Well, possibly my last dives of the year, still thinking about a shore dive tomorrow 🤔

Set off on Friday 13th December on another Dhow Trip with Sheesa Beach on what I would say is a better dhow than the one Jen and I were on last February.

With 60% Scots on board, one of whom brought his bagpipes, we were the last of Sheesa's dhows to leave Dibba Port in Oman.

It was a choppy trip up to Shabus Bay, where we anchored for the night, I think we reached there around 04:00.

First dive was Umm Al Fayarin (Mother of Mouse) and let's say the conditions outside the bay were "rather sporty" as per one of comments made. Getting off the boat was easy and we did manage to circumnavigate the whole island / rock, however, getting back on the boat proved to be rather challenging, especially as the boat ladder was flying up and down, not quite 90 degrees but not far off that, even with a diver on it, there was a lot of movement. My arms are still aching after 48 hours.

Due to the "sporty conditions" outside we decided to do the second dive inside the bay, but the boat dropped us off into a current near the point, and that current was going out into the Gulf of Oman, not coming in. Several people didn't make it, and after 11 minutes I decided that trying to fight the current to get inside the bay was pointless.

I shot my DSMB and headed back out to the ocean, passing another diver sheltered behind a rock but he failed to see me. Then my line caught on a rock for a few minutes before breaking and leaving me with my reel, which I stowed in a pocket then headed up to the surface wondering if anyone was going to spot me in these conditions.

Fortunately the boat was right behind me when I surfaced, and my daughter was on board as she'd been unable to descend with her buddy. It took me 10 minutes to get aboard after I'd passed up my camera.
I was exhausted to say the least.

Then the diver I had passed surfaced, and we went through the whole ordeal with him also.

Another pair of divers had followed the current out and round the point, retrieving them was a repeat process. Only three divers had made it inside and picking them up was easier.

The post lunch dive was in more benign conditions, but vis was dreadful the whole weekend, 3-4m

The boat then headed down to Lima Bay and we decided to can the night dive and party

One of the few photos taken this weekend



On Sunday morning, Andrew piped in a new day, apparently to the chagrin of the divers on another dhow anchored 50m away :rofl3:

The weather appeared to be much calmer and the first dive was to be Lima Rock south, chosen for more light, however vis initially was 2-3m and it was like a night dive, and we had current. My daughter and I held hands as we ripped around the rock. After yesterday's experience we were both carrying two DSMBs each.

We returned to the dhow for breakfast, then on to the second dive at Wonderwall, where her eagle eyes spotted this 5mm nudi, Samla bicolour



By the time we surfaced, the dhow had moved further south and it took 30 mins to reach it where it was parked in another bay where we had lunch and rinsed our gear.

Another hour we were back in Dibba, Oman and had to unload the gear, in the meantime Yanni went off to fetch the car and we set off for the border crossing, which took an hour due to some new regulations and having two buses in front of us.

One of our group were not so fortunate, as they were behind us and another three buses resulting in just over three hours to cross the border.

There is only one line and one person doing all the processing, hence the speed of this process.

I won't be heading up to Musandam anytime soon until this whole process is resolved, as it's a real sh!tshow. How Sheesa and other companies running the dive trips will survive, I don't know.
 
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