Moorings for boat divers

[DiveAngry]

Hello Scubaboard!!!!

I've being reading the board for quite awhile, but now I finally think its time to write something.

Although the idea of just driving your boat up to a mooring and tying off for a day of diving is great- the practice of keeping up with just a few mooring set-ups is alot of work. The idea of having a mooring ball with chain would be totally out of the question- THEY ONLY GO IN MOORING FIELDS. Otherwise they are a hazard to navigation. Never mind that fact that it would probably be stolen within a week.

Tall Tails has the right idea of securing a line and buoy float to mark a dive site. You can do that anywhere, and it isn't a hazard to other boaters. This technique is good for marking wrecks, and rock ledges.

My real reason for writing though is this- Anchoring!!!

An anchor system is a very important safety feature of every boat. As divers we have to make extra sure that our anchor system is able to do the job we want- HOLD THE BOAT IN PLACE!! especially if we leave the boat unattended.

Tips for the anchor system (Anchor, chain, shackles & rope)

Obviously alot of this is boat size dependant, but lets use a boat size of about 17 to 22 feet +/-

Anchor line: About 250' to 300' of 1/2 nylon line. This will give you good scope for diving in about 40 to 50 feet of water.

Chain: I think the most important piece of your system. You should have as a minimum the length of your boat in chain. This chain should be 1/2. A good heavy chain will do most of the work holding the boat in place, with minimal strain on the anchor. I get a kick out of the West Marine anchor set ups with 100' of rope and 6 feet of chain <---Stupid!!!

Shackles: Usually 3/8 or 1/2 shackles will work. Mostly importantly make sure the shackle is tighten, and you run a copper wire or wire-tie around the shackle eye to prevent it from loosing over time.

Anchor: We can sit and debate all day what type of anchor is best for a certain types of bottoms. Whatever style anchor you use though make sure it is of appropriate size. About a 10 - 12 pound anchor is best. I like the danforth for just about everything- my personal belief.

Two more points to end my little rave: Make sure you secure the anchor line to the boat properly, and follow the anchor line to the bottom. Visually check and/or set the anchor to the bottom.

Total weight of chain and anchor will be about 40 pounds or so.

A good anchor system will cost about $250.00 or so. Pretty cheap compared to having and maintaining a mooring network.


--DiveAngry--

 

[MadisonK]

Hello Scubaboard!!!!

I've being reading the board for quite awhile, but now I finally think its time to write something.

Although the idea of just driving your boat up to a mooring and tying off for a day of diving is great- the practice of keeping up with just a few mooring set-ups is alot of work. The idea of having a mooring ball with chain would be totally out of the question- THEY ONLY GO IN MOORING FIELDS. Otherwise they are a hazard to navigation. Never mind that fact that it would probably be stolen within a week.

Tall Tails has the right idea of securing a line and buoy float to mark a dive site. You can do that anywhere, and it isn't a hazard to other boaters. This technique is good for marking wrecks, and rock ledges.

My real reason for writing though is this- Anchoring!!!

An anchor system is a very important safety feature of every boat. As divers we have to make extra sure that our anchor system is able to do the job we want- HOLD THE BOAT IN PLACE!! especially if we leave the boat unattended.

Tips for the anchor system (Anchor, chain, shackles & rope)

Obviously alot of this is boat size dependant, but lets use a boat size of about 17 to 22 feet +/-

Anchor line: About 250' to 300' of 1/2 nylon line. This will give you good scope for diving in about 40 to 50 feet of water.

Chain: I think the most important piece of your system. You should have as a minimum the length of your boat in chain. This chain should be 1/2. A good heavy chain will do most of the work holding the boat in place, with minimal strain on the anchor. I get a kick out of the West Marine anchor set ups with 100' of rope and 6 feet of chain <---Stupid!!!

Shackles: Usually 3/8 or 1/2 shackles will work. Mostly importantly make sure the shackle is tighten, and you run a copper wire or wire-tie around the shackle eye to prevent it from loosing over time.

Anchor: We can sit and debate all day what type of anchor is best for a certain types of bottoms. Whatever style anchor you use though make sure it is of appropriate size. About a 10 - 12 pound anchor is best. I like the danforth for just about everything- my personal belief.

Two more points to end my little rave: Make sure you secure the anchor line to the boat properly, and follow the anchor line to the bottom. Visually check and/or set the anchor to the bottom.

Total weight of chain and anchor will be about 40 pounds or so.

A good anchor system will cost about $250.00 or so. Pretty cheap compared to having and maintaining a mooring network.


--DiveAngry--

I agree with your anchoring techniques. The problem I have is setting the anchor to begin with. Many times I have to make two or three passes at a particuliar spot before it sets. I always follow the line down to check the set but I have still had the anchor drag. As for the navigational hazard you suggest these moorings would pose, I suppose you are right if you are talking about the kind you see in most mooring fields (ie square sponge with metal eyelet). I am suggesting something like they have at the Chester Polin. It is a line attached to the wreck with a small float attached. The float is a lobster ball without the stick. The only question is how to secure it to the bottom. I agree the 1500lb concrete mooring is not possible unless we get the support of the local harbormasters and/or the CG.

 

[DiveAngry]

I agree with your anchoring techniques. The problem I have is setting the anchor to begin with. Many times I have to make two or three passes at a particuliar spot before it sets. I always follow the line down to check the set but I have still had the anchor drag. As for the navigational hazard you suggest these moorings would pose, I suppose you are right if you are talking about the kind you see in most mooring fields (ie square sponge with metal eyelet). I am suggesting something like they have at the Chester Polin. It is a line attached to the wreck with a small float attached. The float is a lobster ball without the stick. The only question is how to secure it to the bottom. I agree the 1500lb concrete mooring is not possible unless we get the support of the local harbormasters and/or the CG.

Madison what type of boat do you have? (size, style). And what are you using now for anchoring? (rope, chain, anchor) types?

A 1500lbs mooring block is a little over kill. A 250 lbs mushroom mooring or even a 150lbs mushroom will easily hold most boats. A couple of guy can easily load it onto a boat and drop it over the side to mark a dive spot.

Then like you said, just mark the location with a lobster buoy, and your all set.

--DiveAngry--

 

[yak]

I have a buddy who fishes Georges Bank frequently. He takes old coolers, pushes rebar through from all sides, and pours cement into them to make moorings to use. If you extend the rebar out both long ends, you have convenient handles to load it with.

 

[Scuba_Dave]

Problem with doing any of this without permission is it's illegal & they will get pulled out most likely. MOST people have smaller boats, but what about the guy with a 36-45' that decides to use your "mooring"?
I have a 1968 25' Luhrs that's on the slow & heavy side. What might hold other boats mine may pull right out. Plus if you get someone who doesn't set the rope right...not enough slack....

It is a great idea, but should be approached correctly. I was involved for a while with trying to get a ship sunk off MA coast. You wouldn't believe the red tape involved. It's been years & I don't think they are much closer to getting it done...