MF2 with optical snoot set up

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Ardy

Contributor
Messages
1,290
Reaction score
189
Location
Australia - Southern HIghlands NSW
# of dives
2500 - 4999
Hi Guys, just went nuts and bought a Backscatter MF2 and optical snoot on Black Friday deal. I have an AOI set up with dual SnS strobes. Should I keep the 2 strobes and add the MF 2 to the top where the focus light sits or get rid of one strobe and put the MF2 on the other side of the set up? Not sure which is the best way to do this.
 
If you've got plenty of opportunities to dive, it might be nice to leave off the other flashes and just work the single MF2/snoot

Mustard in a book talks about mounting it center and pre-adjusting everything for a single target distance (including manual fixed focus point on the lens), then just photographing everything at that predetermined fixed distance with no other flashes to rig up or worry about.

But with a two arm/three clamp setup it can still get vertical from one side.

People are sometimes using a quick-release attachment to hand-hold/aim the MFT2/snoot like a torch in really stable situations.
 
I use an MF1 with snoot slaved off one of my YSD3 strobes as I use electronic connections for my YSD3s.

I mount it on the cold shoe with two short arms and occasionally if I have a willing buddy or guide remove it for a it more accurate positioning.

Alex Mustard's advice is spot on though if you don't have an assistant.
 
If you've got plenty of opportunities to dive, it might be nice to leave off the other flashes and just work the single MF2/snoot

Mustard in a book talks about mounting it center and pre-adjusting everything for a single target distance (including manual fixed focus point on the lens), then just photographing everything at that predetermined fixed distance with no other flashes to rig up or worry about.

But with a two arm/three clamp setup it can still get vertical from one side.

People are sometimes using a quick-release attachment to hand-hold/aim the MFT2/snoot like a torch in really stable situations.
Hi thanks, I'll look up his advice. One of the reasons I bought it was I noticed several good photographers using the guide to control the MF and just take photos. Seems a bit of a ruse but at 77 I can afford the embarrassment..
 
I use an MF1 with snoot slaved off one of my YSD3 strobes as I use electronic connections for my YSD3s.

I mount it on the cold shoe with two short arms and occasionally if I have a willing buddy or guide remove it for a it more accurate positioning.

Alex Mustard's advice is spot on though if you don't have an assistant.
What does the YSD3 do just fire the MF1? Or what I am trying to say is do you use the YS to illuminate the area and the MF to shoot the macro...
 
Use just two strobes. I suggest hitting your subject with the snoot and using the second strobe at low power as a fill light off to the opposite side. This will prevent the spotlight effect and create some appealing light effects.
 
@davehicks guessing also that adding a touch of background fill light could help to make backscatter/particles a bit less noticeable in 'high particle' conditions? I think the Alex Mustard book mentions that too (but more in context of shutter speed)
 
What does the YSD3 do just fire the MF1? Or what I am trying to say is do you use the YS to illuminate the area and the MF to shoot the macro...
I point the YSD3 away from the subject as I'm just using the fibre optic cable from the YSD3 to fire the MF1.

As I mentioned, my YSD3s are fired electronically from the camera, and as I discovered once, that if the camera flash is in operation I cannot fire the strobes electronically, hence my set up.
 
Sale started? I've been waiting also and didn't get any emails
 
Two strobes, one MF-2 with snoot and a second AOI running in manual mode typically at low power (like Dave Hicks). You might also want to bring along a small tripod or the BS muck stick to take your strobe off the housing.
Bill
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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