MAKO K-14 Questions

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WVMike

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I just got a MAKO K-14 air compressor. It is rated 4 cfm and 3200 psi.

It has not been run for a few years and I am wondering if I should do anything special before I start it up? Like change the oil?

Can I use synthetic compressor oil in this unit?

I did order a new filter for it.

Looks like it has been very well taken care of.

I would appreciate any tips or advice about this unit that I can get.
 
make sure there's enough oil in i., i personally would spray a little oil in the first stage and run it slow and with no load for 15-30 sec (low rpm, you can spin it manually 10-15 times, just to carry the oil through the stages and lubricate them), most don't.
keep an eye on the gauges. i would clean it a little before running, if that is needed.
pressurize it a couple of times and make sure everything works well before you put the filter cartridge, if it "spits" too much oil you will contaminate the cartridge and have to change it again.
there's a thread discussing oil conversion but it's nothing special if the pump is in good shape.
 
That's an oldie. Model K14-4 (5hp). These units use a squirell cage type blower fan....be sure it's turning the correct rotation...blowing air out between the cooling tubes and across the compressor cylinders. Also, be sure to verify oil pressure at approx 850psi.

Feel free to contact regarding any detail on this baby....i've had a fair amount of encounters with them.
 
Feel free to contact regarding any detail on this baby....i've had a fair amount of encounters with them.


Thanks, I'll do that. I did find a manual and parts book online and have ordered copies.
 
We may even have some used-remanufactured parts on hand...should the need arise (many items for this model are obsolete)
 
Yes, the "plug" on the side of the machine is the dipstick...used to check oil level. There should be an imprint or mark near the end...the oil level should be in this region.

Oil filling is done thru the "snap cap" at the very top of the machine. I see no problem with syn oil. Just be sure to thoroughly clean out the old oil first. Its always a good idea, after cleansing, to fill with the new oil, run the machine for 10 mins or so, then drain and re-fill with fresh oil.

Oil pressure is gaged thru the oil pressure regulator. This regulator juts out from the side of the high-pressure cylinder (4th stage). There should be a plugged 1/8npt port on the side of the regulator...this is where the gauge would be installed. Pressure is adjusted by means of a screw at the end of the regulator (this screw will have an acorn nut covering it). If there is no screw then that particular regulator has shims on the interior. This type is factory set and most likely does not need adjusting. Pressure needs to be monitored nonetheless.
 
i would clean it a little before running, if that is needed.
pressurize it a couple of times and make sure everything works well before you put the filter cartridge, if it "spits" too much oil you will contaminate the cartridge and have to change it again.

I followed your advice and got it running. It did seem to spit out oil into the filter assembly. I left the old filter in the cannister, because I was going to change it anyhow. After running it for 10 or 15 minutes, brought it up to 3000 psi a few times, I took the filter out. There appeard to be oil in the bottom of the filter, in this unit the unfiltered air enters the bottom of the filter.

Is this normal for a compressor that has sat for quite awhile?

Or, is this an indication of a Bad compressor?

It did seem to take a little while to build up 3000 psi, I was running it dead ended. So only filling the whip.
 
take out the filter cartridge, calculate the internal volume of the filter stack (PxR2xlengh, all of them in ft; x 200 for 3000psi roughly) and time the pressurization time (in min). divide volume by time to get actual output; it will give you a rough idea if the output is ok. oil in the filter would mean most prob bad rings on the final stage
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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