Making Lead Shot

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Firediver:
DYI--- DO IT YOURSELF.. not JUST GO BUY IT... I posted to here to see if it is possible to make your own lead shot and how to do it.. Got some good replies, and some not expected... oh well.....
But why would one want to make their own lead shot?
 
Lead shot? Re-Loading? Diving? Geee ... I didn't know I could combine my sporting clays hobby with diving ... ;)

After having gone through the process of reloading shotgun shells for sporting clays (kinda like trap shooting but much more variable and difficult), I've come to the conclusion that buying lead shot is much more convenient (albeit heavy since you can only buy shot in bags of ... 20lbs?) than trying to make your own. I have seen lead shot makers (liquid lead would trickle off one side's lip into a drum or can of heavy diesel oil or some non combustible liquid forming spheres) in the past but there are numerous hazards involved (e.g., lead fumes, etc.) and local laws may have to be consulted.

Shotgunners are slowly switching to the more environmentally friendly (Bob3's response on a shooting range ... all that lead...) Bismuth which functions as well as lead. Haven't heard if anyone's used it for trim weights though.

Here's a good site for the whole 120 foot tower:

http://www.traphof.org/shot_towers/shot_towers_page_1.htm

Anyway, a 120 ft tower can also double as a great hunting stand ..... ;)
 
I wish I'd have though of that...
Next time I need some stone for a lane I'll just buy a crusher so I can make my own...
;)
 
I have two ten pound vacum packed shot bricks that I use in the tank mounted weight system on my zeagle. This system works great as I can stuff a rigid brick into the pouch more easily than a bunch of little bags. I would recomend making several smaller weights in zeperate vacum pouches then using electrical tape to bind them together into a brick as you will be able to adjust the amount of weight you carry without tearing open a whole bag and having to reseal it. I would also consider some type of protection for the plastic as the shot tends to work its way through thus ruining the seal.

E.B.
 
re: all the comments on leaching.

I used old wheel weights (paid $5 for ~50lbs) that I melted down and poured into the right size for my integrated weight pouches. After they were the right size, etc., I sprayed them with Toolkote. I have not had the white milky leaching issue... and have been in both salt and fresh water with them.

Perhaps this is due to whatever alloy the wheel weights are made of -- apparently there is some antimony and some tin in there, too.
 
Tom Winters:
Walter...now you know where the next posts are going to be headed. These guys up north get into some pretty involved projects over the winter.
I'm waiting for "I was thinking of smelting some steel in my backyard and wondering if anyone had some ideas on how to make a tank mold..."


Seen the Interspiro/AGA/Divator composite fiber tanks yet?
It's on their website.
Cousteau used iron weights, originally.
 
dannobee:
Now you've got me thinkin'. I wonder if someone has tried those vacuum packing kits, i.e. seal a meal. Stuff the lead in there, then evacuate it and seal it shut. The plastic's pretty thick.


You can do as I did.
Go to Wally World or other discount store and purchase a couple of the bar soap boxes. Usually sold in the travel kits.
These make good mould's.
Spray the mould with PAM, or another type of cooking spray. (As a release agent.)
Mix up an appropriate amount of 30 minute epoxy and mix a measured amount of your lead shot with this. Pour into your mould and allow to set up for 24-48 hours.
The epoxy will effectively waterproof the shot and makes for a good sturdy brick weight. You can experiment and find moulds of differing sizes and shapes for your own customized weight needs.

(This idea was one I actually used for making weights to help balance Model Aircraft when I built them.)
 

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