Mahahual question

[ward]

Hi all, can you advise me on the following?
I'll be diving around Playa del Carmen and Cozumel for a week later this month (3rd week of November), and am wondering whether it's worth traveling down to Mahahual for a day or two to dive the Chinchorro reef. I understand it may be more beautiful and prestine (and less busy) than the two areas mentioned. My concerns: it may be a bit of a hassle to get there without a car; i passed by there 3 years ago on an afternoon (different time of year) when I had a car, and saw cruise visitors in golf carts, and menues in usd; when asking around while there 3 years ago I understood there weren't enough people signed up or interested that week (6 minimum?) to make the trip out to the reef; sea conditions are often too rough to go out to the reef.
So the question is: are my concerns valid for this time of year? should I head down to Mahahual, or would you think I'm better off staying around Playa & Cozumel given that I have only a week?
Any advise appreciated!
Ward

 

[Torontonian]

We went there on a cruise port stop 3 years ago. The cruise port is listed as Costa Maya. From there, it is too far to go as a cruise port stop trip. So don't count on cruiser passenger to contribute to the numbers to go.

If you take the trip down there, but find out there aren't enough people for the boat to go, you'd be really disappointed.

Also there was a hurricane that wiped out the pier, and many of the small buildings (and all the huts). They have rebuilt the pier, and many buildings. Some cruise ships have began to go back, but not others. So it may still take some time for it to fully rebuilt back.

But ask around. See if there are some days some dive ops would definitely have a trip out.

 

[akbpilot]

My wife and I did a week in Xcalak a few years ago following a week in Cozumel. In my opinion you would lose the better part of a day, maybe day and a half considering packing up to go, getting a car or arranging other transportation, new lodging for the time in Mahahual, and just preparing to dive. Add to that the uncertainty of actually being able to get to Chinchorro due to the number of people needed or the unpredictable November weather. I personaly wouldn't do it for a two day trip, but your tolerance level may be higher then mine.

I think given only a week total for your trip, you would be better off staying with your first plan.

By the way, don't take my opinions as a mark against diving in the Xcalak/Mahahual area. We enjoyed it very much, and hope to return someday. Our impression of the area was that we enjoyed Xcalak over Mahahual. It was a lot less touristy, more laid back, and truly "end of the road" diving.

One side note. When we were researching our trip (3 years ago) we were struck by a kind of pissing contest going on between some of the dive operators in Mahahual. I can't comment on what it is like now, but it did turn us off to Mahahaul diving. We saw nothing of the sort in Xcaclak.

 

[annlaur]

I'm actually wondering the same thing as you, Ward, as I'll be in Mexico for 3 weeks in December. I got certified in Mahahual in 2004 (before Dean) and loved both the reef and area, which was real quiet once the cruise ship had left "town".
I'd second the recommandation about contacting the dive ops in Mahahual and Xcalak that are certified to dive Chinchorro and see if they have other reservations for the days you are planning on being there.
As far as transportation goes, you'll need to take a bus from Playa to Limones, then wait at the intersection for the bus that goes into Mahahual/Xcalak. There are only 3 of those a day, I think. Another option would be to take a cab once in Limones, I think the ride to Xcalak is about USD50. You can also hitch a ride, I did this a couple of times to do the Limones-Mahahual trip and it was really easy.
How about posting a thread on the Coz forum to ask others if they would like to join you on a Chinchorro trip ? Bringing your own group of divers and renting a car to drive down sounds like a surer bet. Then you'll just have to hope that the weather cooperates.
Enjoy your vacation.

 

[Sun Kissed]

Hi, I have a house in Mahahual and live in Playa. I agree it is a bit of a trek to get there. The ADO bus now goes direct from Playa to Mahahual twice a day. The cruise ships are back full-time as of this week so the ops are now getting the numbers. However, having only a week it would be a long way to go for a dive, (4 hours each way) you would need two days, it would definitely eat up your time, more doable for Annular. Chinchorro, amazing!!! My advise is to check with Dreamtime beforehand. There are 3 ops that have the permits to go to Chinchorro and most times they combine their clients to fill a boat. Finally after three years the town is just finally back on it's feet. I cannot guarantee weather (and a real issue for getting to Chinchorro). However, the reef in front of both towns is pretty sweet. Hope this helps.

 

[ward]

Thanks for all your replies! In addition, here's one that I got from Dreamtime (thanks Marco!):
"Chinchorro requires perfect conditions and a minimum number of divers. If you have limited time, I would recommend diving the local reef in Mahahual. It is spectacular and does not requires 8 hours at sea."
I'll probably stay near Playa and Cozumel, but will decide based on conditions and experiences when I'm in Mexico next week!

 

[Gaviota]

Thanks for all your replies! In addition, here's one that I got from Dreamtime (thanks Marco!):
"Chinchorro requires perfect conditions and a minimum number of divers. If you have limited time, I would recommend diving the local reef in Mahahual. It is spectacular and does not requires 8 hours at sea."
I'll probably stay near Playa and Cozumel, but will decide based on conditions and experiences when I'm in Mexico next week!

If you have just a week and you are set on doing Chinchorro only. Then you may be disappointed. Ditto on Marco's comments. Wind is the largest factor. Depending on wind speed and direction can make for a no so easy ride. Usually December start to see the norte ( north winds). But, then have seen great days too.

Don't discount the local diving as well. The dive sites are as good (and some better than PDC). You can still get your fill of good dives.


A few comments about the area:

Xcalak was not really feel the impact of Hurricane Dean in August 2007. The area still represents "end of the road" diving.

Mahahual - was a direct hit from the Cat 5 storm. However, the area is mostly recovered with many business restored and re-open and new business opening.
Construction and development have returned to pre-hurricane levels ( a good / bad thing). This area continue to develop fast - Hard Rock cafe Costa Maya is currently under construction ( it was bound to happen).

You can escape the soon to be almost daily landings of the cruise ships by heading just a few miles north or south of the area - many nice small hotels and houses for rent.

Some Xcalak and Mahahual dive shops have the permits needed to visit and dive Chinchorro. So you can depart from either village.

The contests between some of the dive operations has been quiet - thankfully. But there are a number of good operations in both villages.

 

[okengr]

But there are a number of good operations in both villages.

Hi Gaviota,

Could you give your thoughts on the best ops in Majahual? We're planning to be there in Jan by cruiseliner and will have some non-divers with us. What would be your thoughts about where we could go so they could hang out while we dive?