Loose dip tube in tank??

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ermaclob

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Location
Miami Dade County, Florida
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i was prepping my stuff just now for a pair of dives im going to do tomorrow and as i was setting up my doubles rig and going over it, i noticed a metal sound coming from the tanks. One of the dip tubes seems to have come off one of the doubles. :facepalm:

how safe is it to do the dive tomorrow with that like that? I'm doing Open water dives just practicing with my rig. id opt to use my singles but they're empty right know and i cant get a hold of the ppl running the boat to get rentals.

any advice?

also any chance i can fix this my self?? (after the dive)
 
I would have no hesitation diving a tank like that. (Assuming it's not full of rust and crud!)

Real easy to put it back once the tank is drained. Just screw it in and snug gently with channel locks/vice grip.
 
my tanks are new and had vip like 4 months ago, no nasty stuff in there. im kinda hesitant to open the tank valve. how do i do that? dis assembling the doubles is no issue just the tank valve
 
It very easy to do... You may need/should have a crescent wrench to loosen the valve after draining the air... The valve is only hand tight and then a 1/4 turn about... Remove the valve and then dump the tank upside down to remove the dip tube, I'd then use a light for a quick look inside... Screw the dip tube back on the valve and use a rubber of some type to cover the jaws of the vise grips(I really don't like them) or pliers so you don't mar the chrome finish... Just snug tight... Check the o-ring and screw the valve in... hand tight then bump it tight with your palm or 1/4 turn with a wrench.... just don't want the valve to loose... And diving the tank would/should be no big deal... Have a fun time...

jim...
 
It very easy to do... You may need/should have a crescent wrench to loosen the valve after draining the air... The valve is only hand tight and then a 1/4 turn about... Remove the valve and then dump the tank upside down to remove the dip tube, I'd then use a light for a quick look inside... Screw the dip tube back on the valve and use a rubber of some type to cover the jaws of the vise grips(I really don't like them) or pliers so you don't mar the chrome finish... Just snug tight... Check the o-ring and screw the valve in... hand tight then bump it tight with your palm or 1/4 turn with a wrench.... just don't want the valve to loose... And diving the tank would/should be no big deal... Have a fun time...

jim...

Basically all correct, however, if possible, use a rubber mallet (hammer) to loosen the valve. When replacing the dip tube, first check if it accepts an Allen key to tighten, if not, use a piece of inner tube around the tube and tighten gently with a pliers. Hand tighten the valve, light tap with the rubber mallet. Keep wrenches away from soft metal like chromed brass.
 
Vent the tanks.Put them on a flat surface. Loosen the bands. Have someone hold the manifold firmly. Unscrew the offending tank (should be able to do it by hand)
The dip tube will be in the tank.Drop it out,screw it back into the bottom of the valve.Put the tank back on. Tighten bands. Refill.

Easy

Rubber mallets and stuff work fine on singles,but that would require removing the isolator, which is a bit of a pain.
 
Last edited:
Vent the tanks.Put them on a flat surface. Loosen the bands. Have someone hod the manifold firmly. Unscrew the offending tank (should be able to do it by hand)
The dip tube will be in the tank.Drop it out,screw it back into the bottom of the valve.Put the tank back on. Tighten bands. Refill.

Easy

Rubber mallets and stuff work fine on singles,but that would require removing the isolator, which is a bit of a pain.[/QUOTE

Good point, it's late, good night.
 
I would turn the tanks upside down and bleed of just a little gas to make sure there is no moisture. Then I would enjoy the dive. After the dive, I would take the tanks back to the shop that assembled them and tell them the repair is on them.
 
I did not see this emphasized in the thread so far - maybe obvious to some, but may not be to the OP, is that you MUST FULLY DRAIN - YOU MUST FULLY DRAIN THE TANKS BEFORE LOOSENING THE BANDS! One you have them drained and loosened lay them on a flat surface, and carefully work the manifold out. Use a rubber mallet to loosen the valve and then once you have it open, you can retrieve the loose/broken dip stick tube. I have this same issue going on right now myself, and unfortunately my tanks are full too! (luckily with 32%) with Trimix in the tanks, it can be rather expensive to drain your tanks, and go through this process.
 
Guys:
I find this info a bit confusing. Every thing I come across about tank valves (including valve repair technician class) says "DO NOT USE A MALLET TO LOOSEN THE VALVE". Additionally, I had a valve end up with a bent knob due to a tank monkey using a mallet on it. I have NEVER had a problem using a strap wrench. Most of the valves I deal with are DIN so I put a steel plug in to protect the body and they come out reasonably easy. Granted, I don't do this for a living, so the only tanks I have worked on to date are well maintained (mine and few friends). But I wouldn't use a mallet.
 

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