Looking for Lessons using DC2000

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

The DC2000 is the best product that SeaLife has available in the market just now.
It’s a camera geared towards individuals looking for better performance than an action camera, better than a regular point and shot, yet less complicated and easier to travel with than an SLR or a pro mirrorless.

Some one already mentioned the importance of getting close. That’s perhaps one of the best 3 key points to keep in mind.

1. Get close. Zoom with your fins... not with the lens. Good thing here is that the DC2000 does not have a digital zoom, so you’ve got to do it with your fins.
2. Shoot up. Point from bottom up, try capturing when possible the subjects (Divers, fish, corals, wreck, al of the above) with a view from equal or slightly greater depth than the subjects.
3. Last but not least, practice, practice, practice.

SeaLife offers a wet wide angle lens. You may want to consider getting one and use it to get even wide shots later on, provided you haven’t gotten one already.

For stills, strobe positioning is critical. Try illuminating your subjects without creating backscatter. This requires anticipating and estimating how much light you want to shine on your subject and aiming the strobe to get the diver or fish or whatever your after without shining on suspended matter between your camera lens and the subject per se. Them comes intensity settings. Light is absorbed very quickly underwater and it does it travel far either. At first, just set the camera to auto and them move on to manual settings. Similar to taking the training wheels off a bicycle.

For video, you will need a light or two. Sounds like you’ve got the Pro Duo model that sports a strobe and a light. Similarly, light positioning and keeping in mind that getting close is key, hold the system steady and roll video looking at what your light is illuminating and check to see that it’s aimed correctly.

Enjoy your new rig and practice, practice practice. Don’t forget to rinse in fresh water after your dives and avoid the dreaded camera dunk buckets offered by most dive boats... unless you can claim sole use of it. Cameras get pretty beat up in dunk buckets.

Enjoy your new camera. It works great as a topside camera too.

Cheers,

Ricardo

Your advice is spot on @Ricardo V. I am flying home from Bonaire now and used my new DC2000 for the first time this week. I am no photographer at all, but this camera is about as easy as it gets for someone like me. Here are a couple of shots from this weeks diving:

upload_2017-12-10_12-45-27.png


upload_2017-12-10_12-46-51.png
 
@Trailboss123,
Thank you for sharing. Great to hear about your positive experience with the DC2000 in Bonaire. The system is a pretty nice setup. I like your macro shot, particularly the depth of field where the scene draws you into the eyes and body of the Arrowcrab.

Octopus always a winner too. Nice find... keep them coming.

Ricardo
 
I used mine on my last Bonaire trip. I'm a horrible photographer from the results I got.

I may need to make another trip to dive with John Wall before I go to Truk in June. At least it gives me an excuse, right?
 
I used mine on my last Bonaire trip. I'm a horrible photographer from the results I got.

I may need to make another trip to dive with John Wall before I go to Truk in June. At least it gives me an excuse, right?

UWP is similar to golf. Natural talent doesn't hurt, but we just have to keep playing!
 
Some great advice here.

One of the deciding factors for me getting the DC2000 was the ability to shoot in RAW mode. Saving images only in JPG will add some noise to the image. Change the settings to shoot RAW+JPG, then use a photo editing program to adjust the image with cropping - your images will be much sharper as a consequence, especially if you then save them in a lossless format like PNG.

 
Last edited:
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom