Looking for a GREAT canister light.

[bamafan]

I like the spread and light of the UWLD LD 35. I have seen and found alot of passages that I have never seen before with a 35 w HID. I go cave diving to see stuff and a laser beam light doesn't do this well. As far as signaling you just slow it down. I have never had a problem signaling with a UWLD light. There are pluses and minuses to everything. I personally like a wider beam for most of diving and I despise a large light head after getting use to Bobby's tiny light head. I am sure there is a market for this light but I just don't think it is for me. Maybe I have just not had enough Kool-Aid to drink.

 

[doctormike]

Well, it's a sub 1000 lumen light

I don't know this for sure, but speaking with Halcyon and others, they point out that the light production mechanism is different, and that the lumen comparison is somewhat apples and oranges (i.e. usable forward illumination is more than HID or other LED lights with similar lumen output). Now maybe that's hype, but maybe not. I have one on order, time will tell...

how many people really focus their light on a regular basis?

I don't now because I can't, but the reason that I got it is that I do both underwater video and wreck diving in the Northeast. So I liked the idea of having the spot for signaling in overhead environments, etc... but also being able to use the same light for video.

 

[BugHunterNY]

Why is the focus so expensive? The H is engraved, not blue... Shouldn't that warrant an "H" tax discount?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[tbone1004]

I don't know this for sure, but speaking with Halcyon and others, they point out that the light production mechanism is different, and that the lumen comparison is somewhat apples and oranges (i.e. usable forward illumination is more than HID or other LED lights with similar lumen output). Now maybe that's hype, but maybe not. I have one on order, time will tell...



I don't now because I can't, but the reason that I got it is that I do both underwater video and wreck diving in the Northeast. So I liked the idea of having the spot for signaling in overhead environments, etc... but also being able to use the same light for video.

My opinion on the matter is have something like the UWLD 35 where the light is focused but not laser beam so there is no hot spot. All you really need for signalling is wide circles for OK, and shaking back and forth or up and down for oh ****, you can see this pretty easily without a hot spot. By removing the hot spot, the 35 is difficult to make out clear signals in tannic water or water with lots of suspended stuff, but they also make nice cheap little $50 backup lights that put out a nice little laser focus spot that you can use for signalling.

 

[TONY CHANEY]

I will throw another one out there...BigBlue TL2500P! Welcome To Bigblue Dive Lights No cannister and the price is great for anyone just getting into very bright lights. With a 10 degree beam it is simply great and has some 85 degree spill over that lights up the areas close to you. For you cavers out there...we were in PIII and i had it on full power. The other two divers in front of me covered their lights and use mine to to exit. I also found that since you can change the brightness that it worked great to light matching. So if mine was brighter than the dive's light behind me I could just turn it down so I could see their light signal. I know that the burn time is rather low 1.5 hrs on full but I just got a backup battery for the second dive or third dive. The battery power indicator really came in handy while doing our third dive in Ginnie one day. I will say that I do not like the glove that came with it. Also the "Goodman" style handle is way too wide. I just rigged up a Goodman handle from an older light it it works perfect. For the price of some of the other lights you can about three of these. It is as brightif not brighter than my 21 watt HID without a cord or cannister. This might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_tT5jr0nhs&feature=youtu.be


I have known Bobby from UWLD for about 12 years and have dived with him several times. He makes a great product but that are simply way beyond my income.

OBTW, I am not a dealer nor in anyway invested in or working for BigBlue. I got a really good deal on two of the VL1800's and one VTL2500P lighs and simply love them.

 

[doctormike]

My opinion on the matter is have something like the UWLD 35 where the light is focused but not laser beam so there is no hot spot. All you really need for signalling is wide circles for OK, and shaking back and forth or up and down for oh ****, you can see this pretty easily without a hot spot. By removing the hot spot, the 35 is difficult to make out clear signals in tannic water or water with lots of suspended stuff, but they also make nice cheap little $50 backup lights that put out a nice little laser focus spot that you can use for signalling.

Have heard nothing but great things about UWLD, and spoke with the dude himself about this (extremely helpful and friendly). They seem like great lights, but I decided to go with the Halcyon for the reason stated above. I had heard that the UWLD lights are more tuned to cave diving with relatively clear and dark water, but he pointed out that lots of people use then for wreck diving and that with a little practice, signaling is just as easy.

Haven't had the chance to try one myself, but a buddy of mine uses one and likes it a lot. The only concern that I had about not having a tight hot spot for signaling is that lots of time you need to get the attention of someone who isn't looking at your light. A quick motion of a hot spot in someones field of view would seem to be more attention-grabbing.

 

[tbone1004]

I don't have one of the big LD's, but have dove with the small one many times. Even still, I have three backup lights, one of which is always a very tight beam for signalling for that reason.

 

[doctormike]

I don't have one of the big LD's, but have dove with the small one many times. Even still, I have three backup lights, one of which is always a very tight beam for signalling for that reason.

Wait, not sure I understand. You clip of your canister light head, deploy your backup to signal, then stow it again and pick up the can light? Wouldn't it be easier to be able to signal with your primary?

 

[tbone1004]

helmet

 

[doctormike]

helmet

Got it.