Being in the process of upgrading from a point and shoot to DSLR I have seen the various UW-housing manufacturers stating what they do to prevent leakage. But does anybody out there have any input about what is the main cause for leaks? Is it hair / sand in the seal, damaged O-ring, cracks in the housing, broken parts, ports falling of, accidental opening of doors, or ?????
Leaking UW housing
- Thread starter Lars_N
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Doubler
Contributor
All the above with the primary culprits being dirt/sand, damaged orings or just forgetting an oring. Get a Leak Detector. Mine cost $25, there is also one out there that runs around $500 that pulls a vacuum on your housing so you can verify water tightness before you enter the water.
blibecap
Contributor
Most people would say that it's not a matter of if you flood the housing but when you flood it and how bad is the flood. It's always a bit of a gamble and all you can do is to increase your odds against the ever-present water gods.
I agree there are several things that can cause a leak but there are a few things that you can do to prevent one or minimize the damage from one. You have to be very careful and meticulous when assembling you rig each and every time that you plan to dive it as well as proper care and maintenance after the dive.
Some people dive forever and haven't flooded a system yet others understand that floods sometimes happen and just live with it. On the other hand I know a videographer that has thousands of hours and dives on his systems and is very careful with his assembly of his gear and just flooded his first housing.
A leak detector is a good start as well as some absorbent material (mini pad) in the housing if there is room. Pulling a vacuum on the housing to test for leaks as well assist in the sealing of the o-rings is a great option.
I recommend a leak detector at minimum but prefer something better. If you spend a lot of money on a DSLR housing camera and lens, and then flood it just enough to damage the camera housing and lens and its the first day of a week long live-aboard you wont be a happy camper. Without any protection you are risking all of this.
I used to carry a spare body as backup and had a leak detector in the housing but if the electronics in the housing get wet your up the creek anyhow. And the cost of the extra body was not cheep. I carry insurance but that doesn't get you a instant replacement of the lens, body and housing on the boat.
I agree there are several things that can cause a leak but there are a few things that you can do to prevent one or minimize the damage from one. You have to be very careful and meticulous when assembling you rig each and every time that you plan to dive it as well as proper care and maintenance after the dive.
Some people dive forever and haven't flooded a system yet others understand that floods sometimes happen and just live with it. On the other hand I know a videographer that has thousands of hours and dives on his systems and is very careful with his assembly of his gear and just flooded his first housing.
A leak detector is a good start as well as some absorbent material (mini pad) in the housing if there is room. Pulling a vacuum on the housing to test for leaks as well assist in the sealing of the o-rings is a great option.
I recommend a leak detector at minimum but prefer something better. If you spend a lot of money on a DSLR housing camera and lens, and then flood it just enough to damage the camera housing and lens and its the first day of a week long live-aboard you wont be a happy camper. Without any protection you are risking all of this.
I used to carry a spare body as backup and had a leak detector in the housing but if the electronics in the housing get wet your up the creek anyhow. And the cost of the extra body was not cheep. I carry insurance but that doesn't get you a instant replacement of the lens, body and housing on the boat.
It is a matter of when; I have already been there with a point and shoot. However moving into DSLR I dan see that housing manufacturers have different issues they highlight; vacuum, special port that cannot accidentially fall off, extra secured door, etc. My point is what does it help to have the fine vacuum system if the port comes of easilly, or what does it help that the port is extra secured but the latches to door can accidentially be opened etc. My maybe somewhat naive hope was to get an idea of the most typical reason for flooding.
bvanant
Contributor
User error, user error and user error are the top 3 reasons for floods. Putting together the system in a rush, not checking it in the rinse tank, leaving it in the rinse tank to bang around are all issues. Given the current state of design on underwater housings, most of them are designed so that there are no really weak points, (although Nauticam had an issue with some screws once) and in general it is the user.
Bill
Bill
bvanant
Contributor
Neither dome ports nor latches are reasons for flooding at any reasonable depth. Latches can get hooked on stuff and open in the rinse tank (which is why I think rinse tanks are evil). As for ports coming off easily, that is probably only a worry with a single type of system and even there it is for an older design. What I am constantly amazed at (from the point of view of helping design systems that are implanted into people) is how GOOD housings are.
Bill
blibecap
Contributor
I agree on user error responce but I think the third or forth issue is user error in the rinse tank. I never leave my camera in the rinse tank without my hand attached to the housing.
In regards to the port coming off easily or the latch coming open, with 10" of vacuum which is what the Housing Sentry works under, a force of Fifty pounds is required to break the seal on the dome port or the housing back. This is posted on the FAQ page. So if a latch comes open or a port lock comes loose it may not matter because until you release the vacuum on the housing you most likely will not be able to get the housing open anyhow.
With the vacuum seal you could theoretically dive with no latches and no port clips although, I wouldn't recommend it. With a vacuum on the system the deeper you dive the tighter the seal gets until you reach the design limits of the housing.
The idea of a port not as secure as I would like it to be was part of the reason for developing the housing sentry. Another part was to alert the person using the housing the there is a user error somewhere in the assembly process before it is exposed to water. I have had 3 situations where salt water was invading my housing and all three times it was user error. Fortunately for me it was a small leak that was caught before it did any harm.
You can search here and read about floods, if you want more information on the Housing Sentry there was a recent review here or take a look at the web site.
In regards to the port coming off easily or the latch coming open, with 10" of vacuum which is what the Housing Sentry works under, a force of Fifty pounds is required to break the seal on the dome port or the housing back. This is posted on the FAQ page. So if a latch comes open or a port lock comes loose it may not matter because until you release the vacuum on the housing you most likely will not be able to get the housing open anyhow.
With the vacuum seal you could theoretically dive with no latches and no port clips although, I wouldn't recommend it. With a vacuum on the system the deeper you dive the tighter the seal gets until you reach the design limits of the housing.
The idea of a port not as secure as I would like it to be was part of the reason for developing the housing sentry. Another part was to alert the person using the housing the there is a user error somewhere in the assembly process before it is exposed to water. I have had 3 situations where salt water was invading my housing and all three times it was user error. Fortunately for me it was a small leak that was caught before it did any harm.
You can search here and read about floods, if you want more information on the Housing Sentry there was a recent review here or take a look at the web site.
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