Lead weights

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divermasterB once bubbled...
Also, do you think an iron skillet and a handeld propane torch will do the trick?

Sometimes it is more the adventure in making your own, that drives the process. Also, I like to melt stuff.
While a handheld torch should work, particularly with some sort of flame spreader, it would be a lot easier if you could just leave a pot of lead to heat on the cooking side burner of a gas BBQ.

Also a lot less exposure to lead fumes.
 
The thick cast pan helps hold the heat and keep the lead form cooling when it gets so deep.

I believe the hand trouch wouldmelt the lead but mainly would agravte you trying to use it for that item

The main part of a BBQ grill will work (don't use in windy spot, it cools lead fast)

the best thing is a propane cooker like you fly turkeys or steam crabs in, it keeps a high temp
 
Hi there, I can't help putting my 2 PSI worth on this subject.

If any of you are near a firing range (like a fish & game club) you can get all the lead you need out of the dirt backstop area from the range. Just use a course diamond pattern steel screen and shovel the sand over the screen. Once you have all the lead you want you can melt it down in your standard manner, garnish & serve...

P.S. Make sure the range is closed first!! :eek:
 
makeing sure the range is closed is a very good piece of advice:arrow:

personally I was too lazy to do that I just took a 5 gal buket to the tire shop and came back in a few days with a new bucket:thumb:
 
Don Burke once bubbled...

He was talking about making a P weight. Shot generally won't cut it for that if he needs more than a couple of pounds.

I use 38lbs of shot.

It is a lot more comfortable on the waist and I distribute it a little. I put 16 in the pouch belt 12 in the intergrated weights and I trim with 10 (non removable) on the back high on the BC to counter the weight that is low on the belt. I have tried a lot of different configurations and I found this trims the best for my configuration. I do not like having all the weight on my waist.

Pete
 
I can't imagine having to strap that much on:wacko:

With my heaviest undergarments, and my lightest tank I wear 22 lbs and think that is probably too much.
 
perpet1 once bubbled...
I use 38lbs of shot.

Lead shot bulks almost exactly twice what a sold lead ballast block weighs. This increase in bulk adds significant drag if large amounts of lead are used.

The heaviest belt I've ever put together was for a rather large diver wearing a 1/4" farmer john. 47 one pound bullet weights fit on his belt with room to spare, and he was still a bit light at the surface.

The day he lost that belt at about 100' depth was a bit interesting too.

It's better to distribute your ballast by judicious gear choices than to put all of it on a belt. Heavy tanks, a suitable plate (up to about 20# is available in just a plate), light choices, and tool choices are all places to pick up ballast weight.

BTW solid ballast blocks are available to fit most weight pouches without going through a DIY ordeal.


FT
 
That is a lot of weight. Might want to look at something a little more hefty than 1 lb weghts for something like that.

Were those the slot in the middle bullet weights? That had to be one uncomfortabel weight belt.


For the BC Pocket weights, I am really looking to maximize the weight in the ballast pockets. That means a solid block of lead contoured to fit that pouch, with no slots for a belt.

Also, I realize the perils in adding to much non ditchable weight, but with a back inflation bc, and too much weight in the ditchable pockets up front you get an even worse situation when you are on the surface with the BC trying to put you face down.

I corrected for this somewhat with a steel tank, but I would like a little more surface trim, without affecting my in water trim.
 
the trim there integrated systems provide. I suppose the center of buoyancy on the back, center of gravity towards the front of the diver does a lot for trim while you are swimming forward in the water.

I would think it would be better to keep these centers as close together as possible.
 

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